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S^EP "i? 18B4 



THE 

HUDSON RIVER 

By Daylight. 



NEW YORK TO ALBANY AND TROY, 

CATSKILL MOUNTAINS, SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

LAKE GEORGE, LAKE CHAMPLAIN, AUSABLE CHASM, 

ST. ALBANS, PLATTSBURG, ADIRONDACKS, MONTREAL, UTICA, 

SYRACUSE, ROCHESTER, CHAUTAUQUA. BUFFALO, NIAGARA 

FALLS, TRENTON FALLS, THOUSAND ISLANDS, 

HOWE'S CAVE, AND RICHFIELD SPRINGS. 



Copyright 1884, by WALLACE BRUCE. 



PUBLISHED BY 1 OC I ^ » 



GAYLORD WATSON, ^^*^ '^ 



NEW YORK. 



CIVIL, MECHANICAL, AND 1ININ& ENGINEERINd, 

AT THE 

Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, 

TtiE DldEBt EnginEBring Schnnl in AmErica. 

NEXT TERM BEGINS SEPT. 17, 1884. 

The Register for 1SS4 contains a list of the graduates for the past nfty-siy 
years, with their positions ; also, course of study, requirements, expenses, etc. 
Address 

DAVID M. GREENE, Director. 



Bryant Literary Union. 



^' The Best Talefit for the Least Money, 



ALL LECTURE COMMITTEES, ASSOCIATIONS, or IN- 
DIVID UALS, ivho contemplate a Lecture Course the coming season, 7vill 
do well to send for a Circular of this Lecture Bureau. Address 

BRYANT LITERARY UNION, 

I^ew York Evening Post Building, NEW YORK CITY. 



CONTENTS, 



General Historic Features of the Hudson occupy pages 3 to 14 

New York to Tarry town 14 to 19 

Tarrytown to West Point 19 to 31 

"West Point to Newburgh 31 to 34 

Newburgh to Poughkeepsie 34 to 44 

Poughkeepsie to Rhinebeck 44 to 45 

Rhinebeck to Catskill 58 to 69 

Catskill to Hudson 69 to 70 

Hudson to Albany 70 to 75 

Albany to Saratoga 77 to 90 

Saratoga to Adirondacks , 93 to 95 

Saratoga to Lake George, Ausable Chasm 95 to 107 

Adirondacks and Montreal 107 to 118 

Albany to Howe's Cave, Cooperstown, and Richfield Springs 120 to 126 

Albany to Thousand Islands, Chautauqua, and Niagara Falls 129 to 150 




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for Tourists and Travelers should be the ^^Home 
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THE HUDSON. 



Hendrick Hudson's trip up the river which now bears his name was pro- 
phetic of its future. He was looking for a route to the Pacific, but returned 
to Europe without knowing that he had in fact found the only pass in the 
Blue Ridge through which tide-water ebbs and flows. The Highlands are the 
eastern portals to the valley of the Mississippi ; and the Hudson and Mohawk 
stand like a great guide-board, with hand pointing west. 

Every other route has mountains, from 1,000 to 2,000 feet, to climb. Here 
is a natural highway, which Clinton completed by overcoming a few feet of 
grade, to the level of Lake Erie above Niagara. The importance of this water- 
way to New York and the entire country can hardly be estimated. 

As beautiful and romantic as the Hudson is, it was intended for something 
more than "a thing of beauty." It is our purpose in this Guide-Book to give 
its historic features, its legendary lore, and facts which the tourist desires to 
know. In the first thirteen pages we note its Sources, its Discovery, its In- 
dian tribes, its Old Reaches, and its Early Settlements— as preparatory points to 
the general description, which begins on page fourteen, with thedivison " From 
New York to Tarry town." 



The Sources of the Hudson. — The Hudson rises in the Adirondacks, and 
is formed by two branches : the northern branch (17 miles in length), rising 
in Indian Pass, at the base of Mount Mclntyre ; the eastern branch (20 miles 
in length), rises in a little lake poetically called the "Tear of the Clouds," 
lying under the summit of Tahawas, 4,000 feet above the sea. About thirty 
miles below this junction it receives the waters of Boreas River, and in the 
southern part of Warren County, nine miles east of Lake George, receives the 
tribute of the Schroon. About fifteen miles north of Saratoga it receives the 
waters of the Sacandaga, Next the streams of Battenkill and the Wal- 
loomsac ; and a short distance above Troy its largest tributary, the Mohawk. 
The tide rises about one foot at Troy and two feet at Albany, and from Troy 
to New York, a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, the river is navigable 
by large steamboats. The principal streams which flow into the Hudson 
between Albany and New York are the Norman's Kill, on west bank, two 
miles south of Albany ; the Mourdener's Kill, at Castleton, eight miles below 
Albany, on the east bank ; Coxsackie Creek, on west bank, seventeen miles 
below Albany ; Kinderhook Creek, six miles north of Hudson ; Catskill Creek, 
six miles south of Hudson ; Roeliffe Jansen's Creek, on east bank, seven miles 
south of Hudson ; the Esopus Creek, which empties at Saugerties ; the Ron- 
dout Creek, at Rondout ; the Wappingers, at New Hamburgh ; the Fishkill, 
at Matteawan, opposite Newburgh ; the Peekskill Creek, and Croton River. 
The course of the River is nearly north and south, and drains a comparatively 
narrow valley. It is emphatically the "River of the Mountains," as it rises 
in the Adirondacks, flows between the Catskills and the Berkshire Hills, 
(this Berkshire Range being twenty miles to the east, is not seen from the 
river), past the Shawangunk Mountains, through the Highlands, and under 
the rocky wall of the Palisades. 

Compared with the Rhine.— The Hudson is sometimes compared with the 
Rhine, but when we present the figures as taken from Baedeker's reliable 
Guide to the Rhine, it is rather a contrast than a comparison. 
Breadth of the Rhine. 

At Bale, 567 feet. At Bonn, 1596 feet. 

" Mannheim 1287 " " Cologne, 1299 " 

" Mayence, 1276 " " Diisseldorf, .... 1227 '' 

*' Coblenz, 1197 " " Schenkenschanz, . . . 2727 " 

The breadth of the Rhine therefore from Manheim to the last'unspellable 
and unpronunceable name varies from one-quarter to one-half a mile. The 
average breadth of the Hudson from New York to Catskill is probably two 
miles. In Tappan Zee and Haverstraw Bay the river is from three to four 

4 



miles wide. The truth is that the Hudson is a vast estuary of the sea, and if it 
were not dammed up by the ocean it would be hardly larger than the Connect- 
icut or the Delaware. The tide rises two feet at Albany, and the river has 
therefore only a fall of four or live feet in the course of one hundred and 
fifty miles. It is not the fault of the Rhine that it looks tame contrasted 
with the Hudson. Even the Mississippi at St. Louis looks insignificant com- 
pared with the Hudson at Tarrytown and Haverstraw. What the Hudson 
lacks in castles it makes up in grand villas and mansions, and the "Crags 
of Drachenfels " are not to be mentioned in the same sentence with the grand 
domes and cliffs of the Highlands. The writer of this handbook had for his 
companion one day a Professor of the University of Berlin. He said you 
lack our castles, but the Hudson is infinitely grander. Thackery, in his Vir- 
ginians, gives the Hudson the verdict of beauty, and George William Curtis 
poetically says, comparing the Hudson with the rivers of the Old World : 
" The Danube has in part glimpses of such grandeur. The Elbe has some- 
times such delicately i)encilled effects. But no European river is so lordly in 
its bearing, none flows in such state to the sea." 

Its Discovery— In the year 1524, thirty-two years after the discovery of 
America, the navigator, Verrazzani, anchored off the island of Manhattan and 
proceeded a short distance up the river ; but it was reserved for Hendrich 
Hudson, with a mixed crew of eighteen or twenty men in the " Half Moon," 
to explore the river from Sandy Hook to Albany, and carry back to Europe a 
description of its beauty. He had already made two voyages for the Muscovy 
Company — an English corporation — in quest of a passage to China,via the North 
Pole and Nova Zembla. In the autumn of 1608 he was called to Amsterdam, 
and sailed from Texel, April 5, 1609, in the service of the Dutch East India 
Company — en route for Chesapeake and China. He reached Cape Cod August 
6, and Chesapeake Bay August 28th ; from which point he coasted north to 
Sandy Hook. He entered the Bay of New York September the 3rd, passed 
through the Narrows, and anchored in what is now called Newark Bay ; on 
the 12th resumed his voyage, and drifting with the tide, anchored over night 
on the 13th just above Yonkers ; on the 14th passed Tappan and Haverstraw 
Bays, entered the Highlands, and anchored for the night near West Point. 
On the morning of the ISth entered Newburgh Bay, and reached Catskill on 
the 16th, Athens on the 17th, and Castleton and Albany on the 18th, and then 
sent out an exploring boat as far as Waterford. He became thoroughly satis- 
fied that this course did not lead to the South Sea or China— a conclusion in 
harmony with that of Champlain, wdio, the same summer, had been making 
his way south, through Lake Champlain and Lake George, to the South Sea. 



The two exploriirs were therefore, within sixty miles of each other, bent on 
the same purpose, coming from different directions. There is something hu- 
morous in the idea of these old mariners attempting to sail through a conti- 
nent 3,000 miles wide, seamed with mountain chains from 12,000 to 15,000 feet 
high. His return voyage began September 23rd. He anchored again in New- 
burgh Bay the 2oth, and reached Stony Point October 1st ; reached Sandy 
Hook the 4th, and then returned to Europe. 

The Indian Tribes. — According to Mr. Ruttenber, whose carefully pre- 
pared work on the "Indian Tribes of Hudson's River" reveals the patient 
student and careful scholar, the names and location of the Indian tribes were 
not ascertained with clearness by the early Dutch settlers. According to 
documents, treatises and information, subsequently obtained, it is now settled 
that the Mahicans held possession " under sub-tribal organizations" of the east 
bank of the river from an undefined point north of Albany to the sea, includ- 
ing Long Island ; that their dominion extended east to the Connecticut, where 
they joined kindred tribes ; that on the west bank of the Hudson they ran 
down as far as Catskill, and west to Schenectady ; that they were met on the 
west by the territory of the Mohawks, and on the south by tribes of the Lenni 
Lenapes or Delawares, whose territory extended thence to the sea, and west 
to and beyond the Delaware River. The Mahicans had a castle at Catskill 
and at Cohoes Falls. The western side of the Hudson, above Cohoes, be- 
longed to the Mohawks, a branch of the Iroquois. Therefore, as early as 1630, 
three great nations were represented on the Hudson — the Mahicans, the Dela- 
wares and the Iroquois, The early French missionaries refer to the "nine na- 
tions of Manhinyans, gathered between Manhattan and the environs of Quebec." 
These several nations have never been accurately designated, although certain 
general divisions appear under the titles of Mohegan, Wappinger, Sequins, 
etc. "The govenment of the Mahicans was a democracy. The office was 
hereditary by the lineage of the wife ; that is, the selection of a successor on 
the death of the chief, was confined to the female branch of the family," Ac- 
cording to Ruttenber, the precise relation between the Mahicans of the Hud- 
son and the Mohegans under Uncas, the Pequot chief, is not known. In a foot 
note to this statement, lie says : ' ' The identity of name between the Mahicans 
and Mohegans, induces the belief that all these tribes belonged to the same 
stock, — although they differed in dialect, in territory, and in their alliances." 
The two words, therefore, must not be confounded. 

The First Guide Book Man of the Hudson was Robert Juet. His jour- 
nal is not only a record of Hudson's voyage up the river, but it abounds 
with graphic and pleasing incidents as to the people and their customs. At 

6 



the Narrows the Indians came aboard the Half Moon, " clothed in mantles of 
feathers and robes of fur, the women clothed in hemp ; red copper tobacco 
pipes, and other things of copper, they did wear about their necks." At Yon- 
kers they came on board in large numbers. Two were detained and dressed 
in red coats, but they sprang overboard and swam away. At Katskill they 
found '* a very loving people, and very old men. They brought to the ship 
Indian corn, pumpkins and tobaccos." At Castleton the "Master's mate 
went on land with an old savage, governor of the country, who carried him 
to his house and made him good cheere." " I sailed to the shore," he writes, 
"in one of their canoes, with an old man, who was chief of a tribe, consisting 
of forty men and seventeen women. These I saw there in a house well con- 
structed of oak bark, and circular in shape, so that it has the appearance of 
being built with an arched roof. It contained a large quantity of corn and 
beans of last year's growth, and there lay near the house, for the purpose of 
drying, enough to load three ships, besides what was growing in the fields. 
On our coming to the house, two mats were spread out to sit upon, and some 
food was immediately served in well-made wooden bowls. Two men were 
also dispatched at once, with bows and arrows in quest of game, who soon 
brought in a pair of pigeons, which they had shot. They likewise killed a fat 
dog, (probably a black bear), and skinned it in great haste, with shells which 
they had got out of the water." The well-known hospitality of the Hudson 
River valley, has therefore, " high antiquity" in this record of the garrulous 
writer. At Hudson the Indians flocked to the vessel, and Hudson determined 
to try the chiefs to see " whether they had any treachery in them." " So they 
took them down into the cabin, and gave them so much wine and aqua vitce, 
that they were all merry. In the end one of them was drunk, and they could 
not tell how to take it." The old chief, who took the aqua vitce, was so grate- 
ful when he awoke the next day, that he showed them all the country, and 
gave them venison. 

Names of the Hudson. — It is said that the Iroquois called the river the 
"Cohatatea." The Mohegans and Lenapes called it the " Mahicanituk," or 
**the ever-flowing waters." It has been called the "Shatemuck" in verse, 
and the "Manhattan," from the tribe that dwelt at its mouth. Hudson 
named it the "River of the Mountains," a name whicli the French retained in 
Rio de Montaigne. The Dutch called it the "Mauritius," in 1611, in honor of 
Prince Maurice of Nassau. It was called "Hudson's River" not by the 
Dutch, as generaUy stated, but by the English, as Henry Hudson was an 
Englishman, although he sailed from a Dutch port, with a Dutch crew, and a 
Dutch vessel. It was called also by the English the "North River," to dis- 



tinguish it from the Delaware — the " South River," — and from the Con- 
necticut — the "East River." The Hudson is still frequently styled the 
"North River," and the " East River" often applied to Long Island Sound. 

The Old Reaches. — The Hudson was divided at one time by the old navi- 
gators, long before the days of " propelling steam," into fourteen Reaches — 
one of which survives in the poetic name of Claverack, the Clover-Reach. We 
will give some of these as a matter of historic interest : The Great Chip-Rock 
Reach — the Palisades — were know^n by the old Dutch settlers as the "'Great 
Chip," and so styled in the Bergen Deed of Purchase, viz., the great chip 
above Weehawken. The Tappaii Reach, on the east side of which dwelt the 
Manhattans, on the west side the Saulrickams and the Tapimns. The third 
reach extends upward to a narrow point called Htwen^troo ; then comes the 
Seylmaker's Reach, and then Crescent Reach ; next lloge's Reach, and then 
Vorsen Reach, which extends to Klinkersberg, or Storm King, the northern 
portal of the Highlands. This is succeeded by Fishei^'s Reach where, on the 
east side once dwelt a race of savages called Pachami. "This reach," in the 
language of De Laet, " extends to another narrow pass, where, on the west, 
is a point of land which juts out, covered with sand, opposite a bend in the 
river, on which another nation of savages — the Waoranecks — have their abode 
at a place called Esopus. Next, another reach, called Claverack ; then Back- 
erack; next the Playsier Reach, and Vaste Reach, as far as Hinnenhock ; 
then the Hunters Reach, as far as Kinderhook ; and Fisher's Hook, near Shad 
Island, over which, on the east side, dvv^ell the Mahicans." These old reaches 
and names have long passed away from the use or memory of even the river 
pilots, and may, perhaps, possess interest only to the antiquarian. But there 
are 

FIVE DIVISIONS, OR REACHES, OF THE HUDSON, 

which we imagine will have interest for all, as they present in brief an analy- 
sis easy to be remembere^^ -divisions marked by something more substantial 
than sentiment or fancy, expressing five distinct characteristics — 

GRANDEUR, REPOSE, SUBLIMITY, THE PICTURESQUE, BEAUTY. 

1. The Palisades, an unbroken wall of rock for fifteen miles— Grandeur. 

2. The Tappan Zee, surrounded by the sloping hills of Nyack, Tarrytown, 
and Sleepy Hollow— Repose. 

3. The Highlands, where the Hudson for twenty miles plays " hide and 
seek" with " hills rock-ribbed and ancient as the sun"— Sublimity. 

4. The Hillsides for miles above and below Poughkeepsie — The Pic- 
turesque. 

5. The Catskills, on the west, throned in queenly dignity — Beauty. 

8 



The First Settlements of the Hudson. — From Wassenaer's Historie van 
Europa, 1621-1632, as translated in the 3rd volume of the Documentary His- 
tory of New York, a castle — Fort Nassau — was built in 1634, on an island on 
the north side of the River Montague, now called Mauritius. " But as the na- 
tives there were somewhat discontented, and not easily managed, the project- 
ors abandoned it, intending now to plant a colony among the Maikans, (Ma- 
hicans), a nation lying twenty-five miles (American measure, seventy -five miles) 
on both sides of the river, upwards." In another document we learn that " the 
West India Company being chartered, a vessel of 130 lasts, called the new 
Netherland, whereof Cornelius Jacobs, of Hoorn, was skipper, with thirty 
families, mostly Walloons, was equipped in the spring of 1623. In the begin- 
ning of May they entered the Hudson, found a Frenchman lying in the mouth 
of the river, who would erect the arms of the king of France there, but the 
Hollanders would not permit him, opposing it by commission from the Lord's 
States General and the Directors of the West India Company, and in order 
not to be frustrated therein, they convoyed the Frenchman out of the rivers." 
This having been done, the ship sailed up to the Maikans, 140 miles, near 
which they built and completed a fort, named "Orange," with four bastions, 
on an island, by them called " Castle Island." This was probably the island 
below Castleton, now known as Baern Island, where the first white child was 
born on the Hudson. 

In another volume we read that "a colony was planted in 1625 on the Man- 
hetes Island, where a fort was staked out by Master Kryn Fredericke, an en- 
gineer. The counting-house is kept in a stone building thatched with reed ; 
the other houses are of the bark of trees. There are thirty ordinary houses 
on the east side of the river, which runs nearly north and south." This is the 
description of New York City a little more than two centuries and a half ago, 
when Charles the First was King of England. 

The Original Manors and Patents. — According to a map of the Province of 
New York, published in 1779, the Phillipsburg Patent embraced a large part of 
Westchester County. North of this was the Manor of Cortland, reaching from 
Tarrytown to Anthony's Nose. Above this was the Phillipse Patent, reaching 
to the mouth of Fishkill Creek, embracing Putnam County. Between Fish- 
kill Creek and the Wappingers Creek was the Rombout Patent. The Shuyler 
Patent embraced a few square miles in the vicinity of Po'keepsie. Above this 
was the purchase of Falconer & Co. , and east of this purchase was what was 
known as the Great Nine Partners. Above the Falconer Purchase was the 
Henry Beekman Patent, reaching to Esopus Island, and east of this the Lit- 
tle Nine Partners. Above the Beekman Patent was the Schuyler Patent. 

9 



Above this was the Manor of Livingston, reaching from Rhinebeck to Cats- 
kill Station, opposite Catskill. Above this Rensselaerwick, reaching north to 
a point opposite Coeymans. Above this was the Manor of Rensselaer, reach- 
ing on both sides of the river to a line running nearly east and west, just above 
Troy. North and west of this Manor was the County of Albany, since divided 
into Rensselaer, Saratoga, Washington, Schoharie, Greene and Albany. The 
Rensselaer Manor was the only one that reached across the river. The west 
of the Hudson, below the Rensselaer Manor, is simply marked on the maps as 
Ulster and Orange Counties. 

Final Surrender of New Netherland to the English.— On the 10th 
of November, 1674, the Province of New Netherland was surrendered by Gov- 
ernor Colve to Governor Major Edmund Andros, on behalf of his Britannic 
Majesty. The letter sent by Governor Andros to Governor Colve is interest- 
ing in this connection : "Being arrived to this place with orders to receive 
from you in the behalf of his Majesty of Great Britain, pursuant to the late 
articles of peace with the States Generals of the United Netherlands, the New 
Netherlands and Dependencies, now under your command, I have herewith, 
by Capt. Philip Carterett and Ens. Caesar Knafton, sent you the respective 
orders from tlie said States Generall, the States of Zealand and Admiralty of 
Amsterdam, to that effect, and desire you'l please to appoint some short time 
for it. Our soldiers having been long aboard, I pray you answer by these 
gentlemen, and I shall be ready to serve you in what may lay in my power. 
Being from abroad his Majesty's ship, The Diamond, at anchor near. Your 
very humble servant. Staten Island this 22d Oct., 1674." After nineteen 
days' deliberation, which greatly annoyed Governor Andrews, New Amster- 
dam was transferred from Dutch to English authority, and named New York, 
in honor of the brother of the English King, Duke of York and Albany. 

New York Sons of Liberty. — The inhabitants of the fair Island of Man- 
hattan were shoulder to shoulder with New England in asserting the rights 
of the American Colonies. In 1767, in the eighth year of the reign of George 
the Hid, they issued a document of straightforward Saxon, and Sir Henry 
Moore, Governor-in-Chief over the Province of New York, offered fifty 
pounds to discover the author or authors. The paper read as follows : 
" Whereas, a glorious stand for Liberty did appear in the Resentment shown 
to a Set of Miscreants under the Name of Stamp Masters in the year 1765, 
and it is now feared that a set of Gentry called Commissioners (I do not 
mean those lately arrived at ^Boston) whose odious Business is of a similar 
nature, may soon make their appearance amongst us in order to execute 
their detestable office. It is therefore hoped that every votary of that celestial 

10 



Goddess Liberty, will hold themselves in readiness to give them a proper 
welcome. Rouse, my Countrymen, Rouse ! (Signed) Pro Patria.'' 

In December, 1769, a stirring address "To the Betrayed Inhabitants of the 
City and County of New York," signed by a Son of Liberty, was also pub- 
lished, asking the people to do their duty in matters pending between them 
and Britain- " Imitate," the writer said, " the noble examples of the friends 
of Liberty in England ; who, rather than be enslaved, contend for their rights 
with king, lords and commons ; and will you suffer your liberties to be torn 
from you by your Representatives ? tell it not in Boston ; publish it not in the 
streets of Charles-town. You have means yet left to preserve a unanimity 
with the brave Bostonians and Carolinians ; and to prevent the accomplish- 
ment of the designs of tyrants." 

Another proclamation, offering a reward of fifty pounds, was published by 
the "Honorable Codwallader Colden, Esquire, His Majesty's Lieutenant- 
Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Province of New York and the 
territories depending thereon in America," with another "God Save the 
King" at the end of it. But the people who commenced to write Liberty 
with a capital letter and the word king in lower case type were not daunted 
Captain Alexander McDougal was arrested as the supposed author. He was 
imprisoned eighty-one days. He was subsequently a member of the Pro- 
v^incial Convention and in 1775 was appointed Colonel of the first New York 
Regiment, and in 1777 rose to the rank of Major-General in the U. S. Army. 
New York City could well afford a monument to the Sons of Liberty. She 
tias a right to emphasize this period of her history, for her citizens passed 
the first resolution to import nothing from the mother country, burned ten 
boxes of stamps sent from England before any other colony or city had made 
3ven a show of resistance, and, when the Declaration was read, pulled down 
the leaden statue of George HI. from its pedestal in Bowling Green, and 
moulded it into Republican Bullets. 

New York and Brooklyn. — The island of New York was purchased from 
the Indians, in 1624, for the sum of sixty guilders, or about |24, and soon 
became the headquarters of the fur trade. In June, 1636, the first land was 
bought on Long Island ; and in 1667 the Ferry Town, opposite New York 
was known by the name "Breuckelen," signifying "broken land," but the 
name was not generally accepted until after the Revolution. Bergen was the 
eldest settlement in New Jersey. It was founded in 1616 by the Dutch colo- 
aists to the New Netherlands, and received its name from Bergen, in Norway 
Paulus Hook, or Jersey City, in 1638, was the farm of William Kieft, Director 
Greneral of the Dutch West India Company. In 1699, the population of New 

11 



York was about 6,000. In 1800, it reached 60,000 ; and the growth since that 
date is almost incredible. It is amusing to hear elderly people speak of 
the country lying north of the City Hall, and of the drives in the country 
north of Canal Street. In the Documentary History of New York, a map of 
a section of New York appears as it was in 1793, when the Gail, Work House, 
and Bridewell stood in the outskirts of the city, occupying the site of the 
City Hall, with two ponds to the north— East Collect Pond and Little Collect 
Pond, — sixty feet deep and about a quarter of a mile in diameter, the outlet 
of which crossed Broadway at Canal Street and found its way to the Hudson. 
(On this pond John Fitch claims to have launched the first boat ever propelled 
by steam, some six years before Fulton made trial of his boat on the river 
Seine in France, and ten years prior to his putting into operation his boat 
Clermont in New York.) In 1830, the population of New York was 202,000 ; 
in 1850, 515,000 ; in 1860, 805,000 ; in 1870, 942,000 ; in 1880, 1,250,000. This is 
independent of Brooklyn, whose population has increased from a city of 2,000, 
in 1800, to a city of 600,000, in 1880. So that the port of New York, with the 
cities which encircle it, represents a population of at least two millions of 
people, not to speak of its outskirts and dependencies, which would make its 
total population at least two millions and a half. The dream of Oloffe Van 
Kortland, as narrated by Washington Irving, has certainly been more than 
realized, for Oloffe did not see in his vision the Great Bridge between New 
York and Brooklyn, the greatest mechanical work of the Nineteenth Century. 
Hudson River Steamboats.— An accurate history of the growth and de- 
velopment of steam navigation on the Hudson, from the building of the "Cler- 
mont" by Robert Fulton to the building of the superb steamers, the "Albany" 
and "Vibbard," would form a very attractive book. The first nine years 
produced nine steamers, to wit : 

Clermont, built in 1807, . 

North River, built in 1808, 166 tons 

Car of Neptune, built in 1809, 295 " 

Hope, built in 1811, 280 '* 

Perseverance, built in 1811, 280 " 

Paragon, built in 1811, 331 " 

Richmond, built in 1813, 370 " 

To give a complete list would fill many pages, and be as unprofitable as 
the list of Homer's heroes in the Second Book of the Iliad. 

It makes one smile to read the newspaper notices of those days, and we give 
some of them for the benefit of the traveler. The time was rather long, and 
the fare rather high — thirty-six hours to Albany, fare seven dollars. 

12 



From the Albany Gazette, dated September, 1801. 
"The North River Steamboat will leave Paulus Hook Ferry (now Jersey 
City) on Friday the 4th of September, at 9 in the morning, and arrive at Al- 
bany at 9 in the afternoon on Saturday. Provisions, good berths, and accom- 
modation are provided. The charge to each passenger is as follows : 

To Newburg, Dols. 3, Time 14 hours. 

Poughkeepsie, . . . . "4, " 17 " 

Esopus, "5, " 20 " 

Hudson, " 51^, " 30 '' 

Albany, " '7, *' 36 " 

For places apply to Wm. Vandervoort, No. 48 Courtland street, on the cor- 
ner of Greenwich street, September 2d, 1807. 

Extract from the New York Evening Post, dated October 2d, 1807. 
Mr. Fulton's new-invented steamboat, which is fitted up in a neat style for 
passengers, and is intended to run from New York to Albany as a packet, left 
here this morning with ninety passengers, against a strong head wind. Not- 
withstanding which, it is judged that she moved through the waters at the 
rate of six miles an hour. 

Extract from the Albany Gazette, dated October 5th, 1807. 

Friday, October 2d, 1807, the steamboat (Clermont) left New York at ten 
o'clock a m., against a stormy tide, very rough water, and a violent gale from 
the north. She made a headway beyond the most sanguine expectations, and 
without being rocked by the waves. 

Arrived at Albany, October 4th, at 10 o'clock p. m., being detained by being 
obliged to come to anchor, owing to a gale and having one of her paddle 
wheels torn away by running foul of a sloop. 

The Albany and Vibbard.— The time-table of the Albany and Vibbard 
presents a vivid contrast to the steam navigation of eighty years ago, and 
Robert Fulton would wonder what had happened if he could stand at the 
prow of one of these steamers when the water falls away, cut by a rainbow 
cimeter of spray. He would admire the dining-room, on the main deck, as 
he took in the Palisades-and-Highlands-on-toast. He would wonder at the 
great engine of polished steel, with 73-inch cylinder and 12-foot stroke, work- 
ing almost noiselessly, and admire the way the pilot lands at the docks, 
even as a driver brings his buggy to a horse-block ; for in his day, and long 
afterwards, the passengers were "slued" ashore in little boats, as it was not 
thought safe to land a steamboat against a wharf. It is impossible to give in 
brief a description of these well-appointed steamboats, but it may be of 
interest to the tourist to know something of the newest steamboat on the 
Hudson, constructed three-quarters of a century after the Clermont. 

The Albany, built by Harlan & Hollingsworth, of Wilmington, Dela- 
ware, is the largest steamer thus far built for day travel on the Hudson. 

13 



Her length is 295 feet, and her width 40 feet, or 75 feet at the widest point, 
including the wheelhouses. The three boilers are each 33 feet long, and 8 feet 
10 inches in diameter. They are placed below the deck athwartship, and each 
has its own smokestack. The ponderous engine is a beautiful piece of work, 
and, like a thing of life, seems to realize its own power. It is in brief a rythmic 
poem in tteel. The finish of the steamer, on the main and upper decks, is finer 
than that of any steamer in the world. The walls are of mahogany, ash, and 
maple, and tastefully carved. There are private parlors, for the use of parties 
or families ; and a hurricane deck, arranged with seats, with ample space for 
promenades. The old prophecy of iron floating is fully realized in the Albany, 
for her gracefully-curved hull is constructed wholly of iron, and her draught of 
water is nearly a foot less than that of a wooden hull of the same dimensions. 
The Albany is probably the fastest steamboat afloat. On her trial trip she 
ran from Yonkers to New York, 16 miles, in 37 minutes and 30 seconds. She 
can easily run 25 miles an hour. The Chauncey Vibbard, so long a favorite 
on the Hudson River, has been remodeled after the pattern of the Albany, 
and the traveler will find on both of these steamers everything for his con- 
venience and comfort. 

FROM NEW YORK TO TARRYTOWN. 

As the steamer leaves the Vestry Street Landing, an extensive view is ob- 
tained of New York Harbor to the south, the prominent buildings of the 
city from the Battery to the Post-office Dome, and the Piers of the East River 
Bridge. North of this the city reaches away with a sense of vastness, second 
only to that of London from the Thames. But the Thames is small indeed, 
compared with the Hudson, for the river is here one mile and a half in width, 
and gradually widens toward the north. Jersey City, with a population ex- 
ceeding 100,000, will be seen on the west bank, and north of this Hoboken, 
with a population of 30,000. While looking at this beautiful, shifting pano- 
uama the steamer has approached the up-town landing at 22nd Street. Halt- 
ing just long enough to take on its load of passengers, it leaves its dock 
promptly, on schedule time. The Stevens Castle will be seen on the west 
bank, and St. Michael's Monastery, with its dome and towers, on the west 
bank. Just north of the Stevens Castle, close to the river, will be seen the 
Elysian Fields ; above this Weehawken, where, near the river bank, Alexan- 
der Hamilton was killed, in a duel with Aaron Burr. The narrow ledge of 
rock, where he fell, that eventful morning of July 11, 1804, was blasted away 
by the West Shore Railroad. The St. Andrew's Society, a short time after 
the duel, erected a monument on the spot, to the memory of the great states- 

14 



man, but it was gradually destroyed by visitors, and taken away in pieces, 
souvenirs of a sad tragedy. 

The square red tower among the trees on west bank, above Weehawken, 
belongs to the Hoboken Water Works, which supply Hoboken, West Hobo- 
ken and Union Hill with water from the Hackensack. Passing the docks of 
the Manhattan Oil Company and the West Shore Railroad, on the M^est bank, 
and wondering at the prominent white building perched on the hillside, until 
some friend tells you it is a lager beer brewery, we turn to the east bank to 
see the Rosevelt Hospital, a brick structure with high pointed spire. We 
pass the New York Orphan Asylum, at Sixty-fifth street, and the new yellow 
tinted building with many pointed roof, known as the Navarro Flats. We 
see, on the west side, the Chemical Works, with cosy little village to the south, 
and admire the substantial Boulevard on the east shore, with its pleasant resi- 
dences. We pass Manhattanville, on the east bank, with its College and 
sightly Convent, the Ottend offer Pavilion of Moorish architecture, built 
in 1877 by the editor of the '"Zeitung," and pass Carraansville, w-here Audu- 
bon, the ornithologist, lived, at 152nd street. The Hotel near the river is 
known as the River House, and the village opposite, on the west bank, 
has the reposeful name of Pleasant Valley. The New York Institute, for 
the Deaf and Dumb, is a commanding building, on the east bank, of Mil- 
waukee brick. Large Picnic Houses, on the west bank, at the foot of the 
Palisades, demand also their share of attention. The points have been 
so crowded that we have hardly been able to answer grammatically, or 
rhetorically, the questions of the tourist. We have now reached the first 
historic i^oint on the river, and stop for a moment to take breath. 

Fort Washington and Fort Lee. (Ten Miles From New York).— Fort 
Washington is on the east bank and Fort Lee on the west. A large gilded 
dome is sometimes seen by tlie tourist among the trees on Washington 
Heights. This was the home of James Gordon Bennett, and it was near this 
house where Fort Washington stood. These works were captured by the 
British, November 15, 1776. It was the second defeat of the American army 
in New York and a severe blow at this early stage of the Revolutionary 
struggle. This fort was the western end of a series of works extending, for 
defense, along the northern part of the island. The point near the river is 
known as Jefl'rey's Hook, and here M^ere some redoubts built in connection 
with the fort. Fort Lee, on the west bank, on the southern point of the 
Palisades, was abandoned by the Americans on the defeat of the Ameri- 
cans at Fort Washington. 

The Palisades— The Palisades are from 250 to 600 feet high and extend 

15 



from this point fifteen miles. They present a bold columnar front to the river. 
They were known by the old Dutch settlers as the Chip Rock, and resen^t)^© 
the Giant Causeway on the northern coast of Ireland. As the basaltic trap-n -ck 
is one of the oldest geological formations, we might still appropriately styk^ 
the Palisades "a chij) of the old block." They separate the valley of the 
Hudson from the valley of the Hackensack. The Hackensack rises in Rock- 
land Lake, within two or three hundred yards of the Hudson, and the 
rivers for thirty miles flow side by side, but are effectually separated from 
each other by a wall more substantial than even the 2,000 mile structure of 
the " Heathen Chinee." 

Spuyten Duyvel Creek. — Above Washington Heights, on the east bank, 
the Spuyten Duyvel meets the Hudson, This stream is the northern boundary 
of New York Island, and a few miles from the Hudson bears the name of 
the Harlem River. Its course is south-east and joins the East River at 
Randall's Island, just above Hell Gate. It is a curious fact that this modest 
stream should be bounded by sucli suggestive appellations as Hell Gate and 
Spuyten Duyvel. It takes its name, according to the veracious Knicker- 
bocker, from the following incident : It seems that the famous Antony 
Van Corlear was despatched one evening with an important message up the 
Hudson. When he arrived at this creek, the wind was high, the elements 
were in an uproar, and no boatman at hand. " For a short time," it is said, 
"he vaiwred like an impatient ghost upon the brink, and then, bethinking 
himself of the urgency of his errand, took a hearty embrace of his stone 
bottle, swore most valorously that he would swim across en spijt en Duyvil 
(in spite of the Devil) and daringly plunged into the stream. Luckless 
Antony ! Scarce had lie bulfeted half waj^ over when he was observed to 
struggle violently, as if battling with the spirit of the waters. Instinctively 
he put his trumpet to his mouth, and giving a vehement blast — sank forever 
to the bottom." 

The main branch of the Hudson River Railroad, with its station at Forty- 
second street and Fourth avenue, crosses the Harlem River at Mott Haven, 
and following its northern liank meets the Hudson at this point. Passing 
Riverdale, with its beautiful residences and the Convent of Mount St. Vin- 
cent, one of the prominent landmarks of the Hudson, (which was bought of 
Edwin Forrest, the tragedian, whose Font Hill Castle appears in the fore- 
ground), we see — 

YoNKERS ON THE East Bank, (seventeen miles from New York, popula- 
tion about 20,000), at the mouth of the Nepperhan Creek, or Saw Mill River. 
West of the creek is a large rock, which was called Meech-keek-assin, or 

16 



Amackasin, the great stone to which the Indians paid reverence as an evidence 
of the permanency and immutability of their deity. 

It is generally said that Yonkers derived its name from Yonk-herr— the 
young heir, or young sir, of the Phillipse manor. The English and Scotch 
word, however, as used by Shakspeare and Burns (viz., yonker and younkers) 
makes a voyage to a foreign language quite unnecessary. 

The old manor house, distinguished by square tower and green blinds, was 
purchased some years ago by the village of Yonkers, and converted, for the 
most part, into offices for transacting town affairs. The older portion of the 
house was built in 1682 ; the present front in 1745. The woodwork is very in- 
teresting, and the ceilings, the large hall, and wide fire-place. In the room 
pointed out as Washington's room, the fire place still retains the old tiles, 
"illustrating familiar passages in Bible history," fifty on each side, looking 
as clear as if they were made but yesterday. The town is growing very ra- 
pidly, and is almost a part of the great metropolis. 

Passing Glenwood, a station two miles north of Yonkers, and Greystone, 
formerly the Waring Residence, now the home of SamuelJ. Tilden, (building 
distinguished by its light grey color, about one-half mile north of a dark 
brown building with square tower), we see the old Picnic resorts of Spring 
Hill Grove and Dudley's Grove. Opposite this point the Palisades attain their 
greatest altitude, in a point known as Ii.dian Head. Bryant has embalmed a 
Sabbath morning's revery among these grand cliffs in the beautiful lines : 

"Cool shades and dews are round my way 
And silence of the early day ; 
Mid the dark rocks that watch his bed, 
Glitters the mighty Hudson spread, 
Unrippled, save by drops that fall 
From shrubs that finger his mountain wall 
And o'er the clear still water swells 
The music of the Sabbath bells." 

The view from the summit of the Palisade Ridge is beautiful and extensive, 
looking over the River, and across the counties of Westchester and New York, 
to the Sound and the Long Island coast beyond. 

Hastings is on the east bank (four miles north of Yonkers), where Gari- 
baldi was accustomed to spend his Sabbaths with Italian friends at the time 
when the great Liberator was keeping a soap and candle factory on Staten 
Island, or, to speak more classically, was more familiar with grease than 
Italy. We note on the east bank Dr. Huyler's Clock Tower and Windmill. 

DoBBS' Ferry is the next village above Hastings, on the east side, named 
after an old Swedish ferryman. It is the scene of a romantic story, long ago 

17 



put in verse, and styled the * 'Legend of Dobbs' Ferry, or the Marital Fate of 
Hendrich and Katrina." The river now widens into Tappan Bay, or as it was 
styled by the Dutch, Tappan Zee. This Bay is almost ten miles long, and be- 
tween three and four miles wide. Dobbs' Ferry is well known in Revolutionary 
history. The British Army was concentrated at this point, in 1776, and a divi- 
sion of the American Army, under General Lincoln, was encamped here forsev- 
^eral months, in 1777. The Commission interceding for the life of Andre, held 
consultation here with General Greene, who was president of the court which 
condemned him to death. 

Passing the Schuyler Mansion on the east bank near the River, the Stiner 
place with its large dome, the Dows' Residence with beautiful lawn we see — 

Irvington, on the east bank (24 miles from New York.) The river at this point 
is three miles wide, and the sloping hills that look over this tranquil bay, are 
dotted with charming villas. The village is named in honor of Washington Irv- 
ing, whose ' * Sunnyside Cottage " can be seen in glimpses, about one-half a mile 
above Irvington Station. This is preeminently the classic and poetic spot of 
our country. There is a magic charm about everything this gentle writer did. 
There are modern critics who regard his essays as a thing of the past, but 
their vocabulary happens to lack one word, and that word is — genius. While 
the Mahicannituk, the-ever-flowing- Hudson, pours its waters to the sea, while 
Rip Van Winkle sleeps in the blue Catskills, while the Headless Horseman 
rides at midnight along the old Post Road en route for Teller's Point, so long 
will Washington Irving be loved by the American people. In fact his name 
is cherished to-day in England almost as fondly as in our own country. A 
few years ago it was our good fortune to pass a few days in the very centre of 
"Merrie England," in that quiet town on the Avon, and we found the name 
of Irving almost as reverently regarded as that of the immortal Shakspeare. 
The sitting-room in the " Red Horse Hotel," where he was disturbed in his 
midnight reverie, is still called Irving's room, and the walls hung with por- 
traits taken at different periods of his life. Mine host said that visitors from 
every land were as much interested in this room as in Shakspeare's birth- 
place. The remark may have been intensified to flatter an American visitor, 
but there are few names dearer to the Anglo-Saxon race than that on the 
plain headstone in the burial -yard of Sleepy Hollow. 

In Irving's essay of " Wolfert's Roost," (the old name of Sunnyside), he de- 
scribes his home very aptly as ' ' made up of gable-ends, and as full of angles and 
corners as an old cocked hat. It is said, in fact, to have been modelled after 
the cocked hat of Peter the Headstrong, as the Escurial of Spain was modelled 
after the gridiron of the blessed St. Laurence." Napoleon HI. was at one 

18 



time a visitor at Sunnyside ; and here, in 1842, Daniel Webster paid Irving 
a visit, with appointment and credentials as Minister to Spain. 

PiERMONT, (twenty-four miles from New York). While looking at the beau- 
tiful villas and historic landmarks, on the eastern bank, the Palisades have 
graduallj^ lost their wall-like character and broken away in little headlands to 
the north and northwest ; and now, passing Piermont, on the west side, 
we leave behind us the New Jersey wall, which is almost enough to "keep 
her out of the Union." We are now within the jurisdiction of the Empire 
State, as the New Jersey line is a short distance below Piermont. The 
pier of the Erie Railroad, which here juts into the river, is about one mile in 
length, and gives the name to the village. About two miles from Piermont is 
the old village of Tappan, where Andre was executed, Otober 2, 1780. Pass- 
ing the beautiful residences on the east bank, chief of which is " Lyndehurst," 
the old Paulding Manor, now the property of Jay Gould, the steamer comes 
alongside the Ferrj^boat, which plies between Tarry town and Nyack. 

FROM TARRYTOWN TO WEST POINT. 

Tarrytown, twenty-seven miles from New York, is on the east side, about 
three miles north of Irvington. Its name was derived from the old Dutch 
word Tarwe-town, or Wheat-town, although Knickerbocker's natural phi- 
losophy imagined that the name arose from the tarrying of husbands in the 
village tavern. 

On the old post-road, now called Broadway, north of the village, Major 
Andre was captured, and a monument erected on the spot by the people of 
Westchester County, October 7, 1853, with this inscription : — 

ON THIS SPOT, 
THE 23d day of SEPTEMBER, 1780, THE SPY, 

MAJOR JOHN ANDRE, 

Adjutant-General of the British Army, was captured by 

John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac Van Wart. 

ALL natives of THIS COUNTY. 

History has told the rest. 

It is said that the tree beneath which Andre was captured was struck by 
lightning in July, 1801, the very day of Arnold's death in London. Tarry- 
town was the very heart of the debatable ground of the Revolution ; and 
here, according to Irving, arose the two great orders of border chivalry — the 

19 



Skinners and the Cow- Boys. The former fought, or rather marauded' 
under the American, the latter under the British banner. "In the zeal of 
service both were apt to make blunders, and confounded the property of 
friend and foe. Neither of them, in the heat and hurry of a foray, had time 
to ascertain the politics of a horse or cow which they were driving off into 
captivity, nor when they wrung the neck of a rooster did they trouble their 
heads whether he crowed for Congress or King George." 

It was also a genial, resposeful country for the faithful historian, Diedrich 
Knickerbocker ; and here he picked up many of those legends whicli were 
given by him to the world. One of these w^as the legend connected with the 
old Dutch Churcli uf Sleepy Hollow. A drowsy, dreamy influence seems to 
hang over the land, and to pervade the very atmosphere. Some say the 




SLEEPY HOLLOW CHURCH. 

place was bewitched by a high German doctor during the early days of the 
settlement ; others that an old Indian chief, the wizard of his tribe, held his 
pow-wows there before Hendrich Hudson's discovery of the river. The dom- 
kiant spirit, however, that haunts ^his enchanted region, is the apparition of 
a figure on horse-back, without a head, said to be the ghost of a Hessian 
trooper, and was known at all the country firesides as the "Headless horse- 
man '' of Sleepy Hollow. 

The Old Dutch Church, and the burial yard where Irving is buried, is about 
one-half mile north from Tarrytown. A plain stone, with simple inscrip- 

30 



tion, "Washington Irving, born April 3d, 1783, died November 28th, 1859," 
marks his resting place. 

The Kingsland Point Light House, built iu 1883, marks the southern point 
of the Kingsland estate. Just below this the Pocantico, or Sleepy Hollow 
Creek, joins the Hudson. 

Nyack, on the west side, lies iu a semi-circle of hills which sweep back 
from Piermont, meeting the river again at the northern end of Tappan Zee. 
The name Tappan was taken from the Indian tribe of that name, which 
translated, is said to signify cold water. The Ramapo Mountains, north 
of Nyack, were formerly known by ancient mariners as the Hook, or 
Point-no-Point. They come down to the River in little headlands, the 
points of which disappear as the steamer nears them. The peak to the 
south is 730 feet high. They were sometimes called by the Dutch Captains 
Verditege Hook. Perhaps it took so long to pass these illusive headlands, 
reaching as they do eight miles along the western bank, that it naturally 
seemed a very tedious point to the old skippers. Midway in this Ramapo 
Range, "set in a dimple of the hills," is — 

Rockland Lake. — This is the source of the Hackensack River, one hundred 
and fifty feet above the sea. The " slide way," by which the ice is sent down 
to the boats to be loaded, can be seen from the steamer, and the blocks in 
motion, when seen, resemble little white pigs running down an inclined plane. 
As we look at the great ice-houses to-day, which, like uncouth barns, stand 
here and there along the Hudson, it does not seem jjossible that only a few 
years ago ice was decidedly unpopular, and wheeled about New York in a 
hand-cart. Think of one hand-cart supplying New York with ice ! It was 
considered unhealthy, and called forth many learned discussions. 

Sing Sinu, (33 miles from New York), is on the east bank, opposite Rock- 
land Lake. The low white buildings, near the river bank, are the State 
Prison. They are constructed of n)arble, but are not considered palatial 
by the ])risoners. It was quarried near by, and the prisons were built by 
convicts imported from Auburn in 1829. Its name is said to be derived from 
the Indian words ossin, a stone, and ing, a place, from the rocky and stony 
character of the river bank. The heights above the village are crowned by 
fine residences, and the village is one of the pleasantest on the river. 

Croton River flows into the Hudson on tlie east side, north of Sing Sing. 
The Croton Reservoir, reached by a pleasant carriage drive from Sing Sing, 
supplies New York City witli water, and it is a singular fact that the pitclier 
and ice-cooler of New York, or, in other words, Croton Dam and Rockland 
Lake, should be almost opposite. About fifty years ago the Croton first 

21 



made its appearance in New York, brought in by an aqueduct of solid mason- 
ry, which follows the course of the Hudson at an average distance of about a 
mile from the east bank. This acqueduct is capable of discharging 60,000,- 
000 gallons per day into the receiving reservoir in Central Park. The cost of 
the Croton Works was almost $14,000,000, and great improvements have since 
been made to meet the wants of the city. The old Indian name of the 
Croton was Kitch-a-wonck. The Dam is an interesting place to visit, and we 
understand that city milkmen, when journeying up the river, never pass this 
point without reverently lifting their hats. 

Teller's Point, (sometimes known as Underhill's Point), separates Tap- 
pan Zee from Haverstraw Bay. It was called by the Indians " Senasqua." 
Tradition says that the ancient warriors still haunt the surrounding glens 
and woods, and the sachems of Teller's Point are household words in the 
neighborhood. It is also said that there was once a great Indian battle 
here, and perhaps the ghosts of the old warriors are attracted by the Un- 
derbill grapery and the 10,000 gallons of wine bottled every season. 

The river now widens into a beautiful bay, almost five miles wide, — a 
bed large enough to tuck up eight or ten River Rhines side by side. This 
reach sometimes seems in the bright sunlight like a molten bay of silver, 
and the tourist finds relief in adjusting his smoked glasses to temper the 
dazzling light. 

High Torn is the name of the northern point of the Ramapo on the west 
bank, south of Haverstraw. According to the Coast Survey, it is 820 feet 
above tide-water, and the view from the summit is grand and extensive. 
The origin of the name is not clear, but it has lately occurred to the 
writer, from a recent reading of Scott's Peveril of the Peak, that it might 
have been named from the Torn, a mountain in Derbyshire, either from its 
appearance or by some patriotic settler from the central water-shed of Eng- 
land, 

West Shore Railroad. — The tourist will see at this point, on the west 
shore of the River, the tunnel where the New York, West Shore & Buffalo 
Railroad (known in brief as the WeM Shore Railroad) emerges from the 
mountains. To the traveler over this new route, emerging from the quiet 
ralley west of the Palisades, the Hudson opens up a sudden vision of beauty 
unrivaled in any land. The broad river, nearly five miles in width, seems 
like a great inland lake ; and the height of the tunnel above the river gives to 
the vision all the charm of a quiet picture. There is no other railway outlook 
to be compared with this along the river. This new railroad, now completed 
to Buffalo, passes through a historic and romantic land. Right over its Wee- 



hawken docks is the dueling ground where Hamilton was killed by Burr. It 
passes the places in the Hackensack Valley where the Revolutionary armies 
marched and remarched ; past Tappan, where Andre was hanged as a spy ; 
through Haverstraw, where Arnold sold his country, but failed to deliver the 
goods; through Newburgh, with its well-known Washington Headquarters ; 
through Kingston, where the State Constitution was framed and adopted ; 
through the quiet fields and haunts near Catskill, whose streams and fields 
shared with the mountains the companionship of the immortal Rip Van 
Winkle ; under the Helderbergs, where the anti-rent battles were fought with 
tragic or comic result— portrayed in Knickerbocker and less reliable histories. 
Its entire course lies through a charming country. The great interests of our 
State demanded a new route along the Hudson, and it is fortunate for the 
traveler that it is now completed. 

It is pleasant to note that the passenger equipments embrace all the latest 
appliances essential to the comfort of travelers. The traveler has something 
more than dim candles or smoking oil-burners to read by ; and many new 
features, designed to promote the pleasure of travel, will be appreciated by 
residents along the river. 

Haverstraw is devoted to the "Brick Interest," and miles of brickyards 
extend from the village almost to Stony Point. The name strikes tlie visitor 
as new and original, and calls up the old rhyme of the river captain, who 
embalmed his landings in the following verse : 

" West Point and Middletown, 
Konnosook, and Doodletown, 
kakiak and Mamapaw, 
Stony Point and Haverstraw." 

Quaint as these names now sound, they are all found on old maps of the 
Hudson. 

Stony Point and Verplanck's Point are at the northern portal of Haver- 
straw Bay. The river at this point is only half a mile wide. This was, 
therefore, an important pass during the Revolution. It was known as 
King's Ferry, at and before the days of '76, and was quite an avenue of 
travel between the Middle and the Eastern States. The fort at Stony 
Point was captured from the Americans by the British, June 1, 1779, but 
surprised and recaptured l)y Anthony Waj^ie, July IHth, of the same year. 
A centennial was observed at the place July 15, 1879. Thackeray, in his 
"Virginians," gives a graphic account of this midnight battle. The present 
light-house occupies the site of the old fort, and was built in part of stone 
taken from its walls. We are now in the midst of historic country. Ver- 

23 



planck's Point, on the east bank (now full of brick-yards), was the site of Fort 
Lafayette, and it was here that Baron Steuben drilled the soldiers of the 
American army. South of Stony Point is Grassy Point, and south-west of 
Grassy Point, about one mile from the river, on a commanding point, is 
the house where Arnold met Andre, known as Treason Hill, at that time 
the property of Joshua Rett Smith. 

Tompkin's Cove. — North of Stony Point are quarries of limestone and kilns, 
and the village of Tompkin's Cove. Gravel is also shipped from this point for 
Central Park, and drive- ways in New York City. The tourist, looking north 
from the forward deck of the steamer, sees no opening in the mountains. 
The course, straight forward, which seems the more natural, would land the 
steamer against the Hudson River Railroad, which crosses the Peekskill River. 
It is said that an old skipper, Jan Peek, one summer evening, ran up this 
stream, and did not know that he had left the Hudson, (or rather that the 
Hudson Jiad left him on the left), until he ran aground in the shoal water of 
the bay. He saw the next day that it was a goodly land, and the place is 
called Peekskill unto this day. 

Peekskill, (forty-three miles from New York), is a pleasant village. In 
Revolutionary times Fort Independence stood on the point above, where its 
ruins are still seen. The Franciscan Convent Academy of "Our L »dy of 
Angels," guards the point below. In 1797 Peekskill was the headiiuarters of 
old Israel Putnam. This was the birthplace of Paulding, one of Andre's cap- 
tors, and he died here in 1818. There is a monument to his memory about 
two miles north of the village. Near this church is the old Van Cortlandt 
House, once the temporary residence of Washington. East of the village is 
the farm and summer home of the great pulpit-orator of our country— Henry 
Ward Beecher. Just above Peekskill will be seen the New York State En- 
campment, which has a picturesque and pleasant site. 

Kidd's Point, now known as Caldwell's Landing, is on the west bank, near 
which the steamer passes, as it enters the southern gate of the Highlands. 
Near the point will be seen some upright planks, or caissons, near the water's 
edge. They mark the spot where Captain Kidd's ship was supposed to have 
been scuttled. As the famous captain's history seems to be quite intimately 
associated with the Hudson, we will give in brief — 

The Story of Captain Kidd. — His name was William, and he was born 
about the middle of the seventeeth century ; and it is thought, near Greenock, 
in Scotland ; resided at one time in New York, near the corner of William 
and Cedar Streets, and was there married. In April, 1G96, Kidd sailed from 
England in command of the "Adventure Galley," with full armament and 

34 



eighty men. He captured a French ship, and, on arrival at New York, put 
up articles for volunteers ; remained in New York three or four months, in- 
creasing his crew to one hundred and fifty-five men, and sailed thence to 
Maderas, thence to Bonavista and St. Jago, to Madagascar, then to Calicut, 
then to Madagascar again, then sailed and took the "Quedah Merchant." 
Kidd kept forty shares of the spoils, and divided the rest with his crew. He 
then burned the "Adventure Galley," wentoa board the '"Queclah Merchant," 
and sailed for the West Indies. Here he left the "Merchant," with part of 
his crew, under one Bolton, as commander. Then manned a sloop, and tak- 
ing part of his spoils, went to Boston via Long Island Sound, and is said to 
have set goods on shore at different places. In the mean time, in August, 
1698, the East India Company informed the Lords Justice that Kidd had com- 
mitted several acts of piracy, particularly in seizing a Moor's ship called the 
"Quedah Merchant," When Kidd landed at Boston he was therefore arrest- 
ed by the Earl of Bellamont, and sent to England for trial, 1699, where he 
was found guilty and executed. Now it is supposed that the crew of the 
"Quedah Merchant," which Kidd left at Hispaniola, started with their ship 
for the Hudson, as the crew was mostly gathered from the Highlands and 
above. It is said that they passed New York in the night, and started witli 
their ship for the manor of Livingston; but encountering a gale in the High- 
lands, and thinking they were pursued, run her near the shore, now known 
as Kidd's Point, and here scuttled her, and the crew fied to the woods with 
sucli treasure as they could carry. Whether this circumstance was true or 
not, it was at least a current story in the neighborhood, and an enterprising 
individual, about forty years ago, caused an old cannon to be discovered in 
the river, and perpetrated the first "Cardiff Giant Hoax." A New York 
Stock Company was organized to prosecute the work. It was said that the 
ship could be seen in clear dnys, with her masts still standing, many fathoms 
below the surface. One thing is certain— the Company didn't see it or the 
1 treasurer either, in whose hands were deposited about $30,000. 
■ On the west shore rise the rock-beaten crags of — 

j The DuNDEliBERG, the dread of the Dutch mariners. This hill, according 
Uo Irving, was peopled with a multitude of imps, too great for man to 
I number, who wore sugar-loaf hats and short doublets, and liad a picturesque 
way of " tumbling head over heels in the rack and mist." They were 
1 especially malignant toward all captains who failed to do them reverence, 
and brought down frightful squalls on such craft as failed to drop the peaks 
I J of their mains-ails to the goblin who presided over this shadowy republic. It 
Was the dread of the early navigators — in fact, the Olympus of Dutch 

1 25 




AT THE FOOT OF THE DUNDERBERGH, N. Y., W. S. & B. RY. 



mythology. Verditege Hook, the Dunderberg, and the Overslaugh, were 
names of terror to even the bravest skipper. The old burghers of New York 
never thought of making their week's voyage to Albany without arranging 
their wills, and it created as much commotion in New Amsterdam as a 
Stanley expedition in search of Livingstone. 

Anthony's Nose. — The high peak on the east bank is Anthony's Nose, the 
prominent feature of the Hudson. It is 1228 feet high, and has had two or 
three christenings. One says it was named after St. Anthony the Great, the 
first institutor of monastic life, born A.D. 251, at Coma, in Heraclea, a town 
in Upper Egypt. Irving's humorous account is, however, quite as probable 
to wit, that it was derived from the nose of Anthony Van Corlear, the illus- 
trious trumpeter of Peter Stuy vesant. ' ' Now thus it happened that bright 
and early in the morning the good Anthony, having washed his burly visage, 
was leaning over the quarter-railing of the galley, contemplating it in the 
glassy waves below. Just at this moment the illustrious sun, breaking in all 
his splendor from behind a high bluff of the Highlands, did dart one of his 
most potent beams full upon the refulgent nose of the sounder of brass, the 
reflection of wliich shot straightway down hissing hot into the water, and 
killed a mighty sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel. When this 
astonishing miracle was made known to the Governor, and he tasted of the 
unknown fish, he marveled exceedingly ; and, as a monument thereof, he 
gave the name of Anthony's Nose to^a stout promontory in the neighborhood, 
and it has continued to be called Anthony's Nose ever since," This mountain 
was called by the Indians " Kittatenny," a Delaware term, signifying "end- 
less hills." 

lONA Island, with its grapery and fine picnic grounds, is on the west 
side of the steamer's channel, opposite Anthony's Nose, and a short dis- 
tance west of the island, on the main land, was the village or cross-roads 
known as Doodletown. This reach of the river was formerly known as 
j The Horse Race, perhaps from the rapid flow when the tide was at its 
' height. From this point looking north, we obtain a fine view of Sugar 
Loaf, on the east bank. 

, We are now in the midst of historic country, and the various points are 
t literally crowded together : Beverly House, Fort Putnam, North and South 
1 Redoubt Mountains, Kosciusko's Garden, and Fort Constitution. 

Passing Cohn's Hook or point, on the west bank, the name of which, 
^ it will be remembered, appeared in the Captain's rhyme as Connosook, and 
,' Beverly Dock on the east bank, where Arnold embarked for the " Vulture," 
j we see on the west bank — 

fc- 27 



Buttermilk Falls, named by Washington Irving, Like sparkling wit, 
it is generally dry, and the tourist is exceptionally fortunate who sees it 
in full dress costume after a heavy shower, when it rushes over the rocks 
in floods of snow-white foam. It was known among the Indians as the 
Prince's Falls (owned by a Prince of the hill country). The rivulet south 
of these falls was called by the Indians the Ossinipink, or the stream from 
the solid rocks ; and while we are dealing with " Waterfalls," we might 
also speak of the Brocken Kill, a stream which empties below Anthony's 
Nose, a Dutch word for water broken in its flow. 

Highland Falls is the name of a small village a short distance west 
of the river, on the bluff, but not seen from the deck of the steamer. The 
large building south of Buttermilk Falls is now used for a hotel, as is also 
the one upon the bluff. The building north of the falls is known as 
"Cranston's," and has a commanding and pleasant site. It is, however, 
one mile and a half from the Parade Ground— the principal attraction of 
West Point; and the ^visitor who has only a few days at his command, 
will perhaps gather more information by locating at West Point proper, 
whose well-constructed dock our steamer is now approaching. 

West Point Hotel. — T'.\is hotel has a beautiful location, and commands 
perhaps the finest view in the Hudson Valley. Looking north from its 
sightly veranda, the stanzas of Wallace Bruce's poem on "The Hudson" are 
fully realized. 

"On either side thcBC mountain glen^ 
Lie open like a massive book, 
Whose words are graved with iron pens, 
And lead into the eternal rock. 

Which evermore shall here retain 

The annals time cannot erase ; 
And while these granite leaves remain 

This crystal ribbon marks the place." 

The vieAv from Fort Putnam, 570 feet above the tide, is grand and pic- 
tures<|ue ; and the fort itself is a ruin worthy of a visit. In fact, there is 
no finer relic of revolutionar}^ days along the river. Excursion tickets 
from New York to West Point and return are only $1.00, via the Day 
Line Steamers, and there is ample time for looking over the grounds and 
taking dinner at the hotel. The drives are very pleasant and carriages 
may be obtained of Messrs. Denton & Son, proprietors of the Omnibus 
Line at the Landing. West Point, among old visitors, is generally spoken 
of as the Post, and we mention it here so that the traveler may not run 
against it without knowing it. 

28 



The road completed in 1876, from West Point to Cornwall, gives one a 
pleasant acquaintance with the wooded Highlands. It passes over the 
plateau of Cro' Nest and winds down the Cornwall slope of Storm King. 
The tourist who sees Cro' Nest and Storm King only from the river, has 
but little idea of their extent, but the Cornwall road opens up all the love- 
liness and grandeur of this section. 

Cro' Nest Plateau is about one thousand feet above the Parade Ground 
of West Point, and overlooks it as a rocky balcony. These mountains, with 
their wonderful lake system, are, in fact, the " Central Park" of the Hudson. 
Within a radius of ten miles are clustered over forty lakes, and we very 
much doubt if one person in a thousand ever heard of them. It would pay 
the New York Herald to discover another Stanley, and find a few " Nyanzas" 
nearer home. We understand there is no map giving the physical geography 
of this section to be found, even in the West Point Library. We would 
suggest to the professors of West Point the words of Hamlet: "Reform it 
altogether." 

But to return — West Point has the most beautiful location on the Hudson, 
and Washington suggested this place as the most eligible situation for a 
Military Academy. It went into operation about 1812, and the land was 
ceded to the General Government of the United States in the year eighteen 
hundred twenty-six. Visitors, properly introduced, are permitted to visit 
the classes in recitation, and look through the Public Buildings. The disci- 
pline is very strict, but it is considered essential to the formation of soldierly 
habits. The average number of students is 250. A certain number of can- 
didates are apportioned to the several congressional districts, and candidates for 
admission are nominated by members of Congress. The candidates are ex- 
amined in June, eacli year, and must be physically sound as well as mentally 
qualified. The course is very thorough, especially in higher mathematics. 
The Cadets go into camp in July and August, nnd this is the pleasantest time 
to visit the Point. The drills and parades are interesting, and are conducted 
in a style whicli would make the disembodied heroes of Fort Putnam stare. 
The Parade Ground is situated on a fine open plateau about two hundred 
j feet above the river, and it seems almost as level as a floor. As the build- 
[ ings are back from the river, they are only partially seen from the steamer. 
I The first building on the right hand to one ascending from the landing is the 
riding school used in winter; to the rear of this the public stables, accom- 
jmodatingone hundred and fifty horses. Then, as you ascend, the pathway 
brings you to a new fire-proof Imilding, for offices, a beautiful feature. To the 
.right hand of this building is the library, witii a dome. The next building is 

29 



the chapel ; and next to the chapel is the old riding-hall, now used for recita- 
tion-rooms, gymnasiums, gallery of paintings, and museums. On the same 
street are located the cadet barracks ; and to the north, the officers' quarters. 
Prominent in this vicinity is the fine monument to General Sedgwick. Start- 
ing again at the old riding-hall, and going south, we come to the cadet hall 
and the cadet hospital ; and still further south, another section of officers' 
quarters. Near the flag-staff will be found a fine collection of old cannon, 
old chains, old shell, and the famous "swamp angel" gun, used at Charleston 
in '64. Fort Knox was just above the landing. Near the river bank can also 
be seen Dade's Monument, Kosciusko's Garden, and Kosciusko's Monument. 
Old Fort Clinton was located on the plain, near the monument ; and far above, 
like a sentinel left at his post. Fort Putman looks down upon the changes of 
a hundred years. But of all places around West Point, Kosciusko's Garden 
seems the finest and most suggestive, connected as it is with a hero not only 
of his own country, but a man ready to battle for free institutions, taking up 
the sublime words of the old Roman orator, '"Where Liberty is, there is my 
country." A beautiful spring is near the Garden, and the indenture of a can- 
non-ball is still pointed out in the rocks, which must have disturbed the 
patriot's ineditations. 

West Point during the Revolution was the Gibraltar of the Hudson ; and 
the saddest lesson of those stern old days is connected with its history. Ben- 
edict Arnold was in command of this important point. It will be remem- 
bered that he met Andre at the house of Joshua Hett Smith, near the village 
of Haverstraw. Major Andre was sent as the representative of the British" 
commander. Sir Henry Clinton. Andre, with the papers and plans of Arnold 
secreted in his hoots, passed down the Tarrytown road, and was arrested, as 
we said in our article on Tarrytown, and the papers discovered. With this 
preface, our history will carry us across the river to — 

Garrison, on the east side. Arnold returned from Haverstraw to the Bev- 
erly House, where he was then living. This house is situated about one mile 
south of the Garrison Depot, near the magnificent grounds and residence of 
the Hon. Hamilton Fish. Colonel Jamieson sent a letter to Arnold informing 
him of the facts, and this letter Arnold received on the morning of the 24th of 
September. Alexander Hamilton and General Lafayette were at breakfast 
with him. He r^ad its contents and excused himself from the table, kissed 
his wife good-bye, told her he was a ruined man and a traitor, kissed his lit- 
tle boy in the cradle, fled to Beverley Dock, and ordered his men to pull off 
and go down the river. The " Vulture," English man-of-war, was near Tel- : 
ler's Point, and received a traitor, whose living treason had to be atoned by 

30 



the blood of Andre, the noble and pure-hearted officer. It is said that Ar- 
nold lived long enough to be hissed in the House of Commons, as he once took 
his seat in the gallery, and he died friendless, and, in fact, despised. It is 
also said that one day when Talleyrand arrived in Havre on foot from Paris, 
in the darkest hour of the French Revolution, pursued by the bloodhounds 
of the reign of terror, he was about to secure a passage to the United States, 
and asked the landlord of the hotel, "So there are Americans staying at 
your house ? I am going across the water, and would like a letter to a per- 
son of influence in the New World." "There is a gentleman up-stairs from 
Britain or America," was the response. He pointed the way, and Talleyrand 
ascended the stairs. In a dimly lighted room sat the man of whom the great 
minister of France was to ask a favor. He advanced, and poured forth in 
elegant French and broken English, "I am a wanderer, and an exile. I am 
forced to fly to the New World without a friend or home. You are an Ameri- 
can. Give me, then, I beseech you, a letter of yours, so that I may be able to 
earn my bread." The strange gentleman rose. With a look that Talleyrand 
never forgot, he retreated toward the door of the next chamber. He spoke as 
he retreated, and his voice was full of suffering : " I am the only man of the 
New World who can raise his hand to God and say, ' I have not a friend, not 
one, in America !' " " Who are you ? " he cried — " your name ? " *' My name 
is Benedict Arnold ! " 

FROM WEST POINT TO NEWBURGH. 

As the steamer was approaching the West Point Dock the traveler saw a 
building high up the mountain side, on the east bank, which resembled a 
rural Tribune Building. This is the residence of William H. Osburn. Oppo- 
site the West Point Landing is Garrison, named in honor of a well-known 
family of Revolutionary times. The mountains north and south of the 
plateau, above the station, are known as the North and South Redoubt Moun- 
tains, from redoubts constructed by General Putnam. 

Constitution Point. — A short distance above West Point Landing the 
steamer turns a right angle. On the east bank, almost opposite, known as 
I Constitution Island, lives Miss Susan Warner, author of Queechy and The 
\Wide, Wide World, Here ruins of the old fort are still seen. It was once 
Icalled Martalaer's Rock Island. A chain was stretched across the river at 
■this point to intercept the passage of boats up the Hudson — also, another at 
ithe point of Anthony's Nose ; but they were ineffectual, as the impetus of the 
boats snapped them like cords. 

31 



Cold Spring. — A little to the north, also on the east bank, is the village of 
Cold Spring, which received its name very naturally from the fact that there 
was a cold spring in the vicinity. A short distance north of the village we see 
Undercliff, once the home of the poet Morris. It lies, in fact, under the 
cliff and shadow of Mount Taurus, and has a fine outlook upon the river and 
surrounding mountains. Standing on the piazza, we see directly in front of 
us Old Cro' Nest • and it was on this piazza that the poet wrote 
"Where Hudson's wave o'er silvery sands 
Winds through the hills afar, 
Old Cro'' Nest like a monarch stands, 
Crowned ivith a single star.''' 

Old Cro' Nest is the first mountain above West Point. The precipice which 
forms the river front is called Kidd's Plug Cliff. This mountain is also in- 
timately associated with poetry, as the scene of 'Rodman Drake's " Culprit 
Fay":— 

" 'Tis the middle watch of a summer night, 
The earth is dark, but the heavens arc bright, 
The moon looks down on Old Cro' Nest- 
She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast, 
And seems his huge grey form to throw 
In a silver cone on the wave below." 

Storm King, to the north of Cro' Nest, is the highest peak of the Highlands, 
being 1700 or 1800 feet above tide water. We would modestly suggest to the 
West Point Cadets that these mountains need remeasurement, and a few 
hours' triangulation would be a practical expenditure of time. The first name 
of this mountain was Klinkersberg, (so called by Hendrich Hudson, from ijts 
glistening and broken rock). It was called by the Dutch '• Butter Hill," from 
its shape, and with Sugar Loaf, on the eastern side below the Point, helped to 
set out the tea table for the Dunderberg Goblins. It was christened by Willis 
"Storm King," and may well be regarded the El Capitan of the Highlands. 
Breakneck is opposite, on the east side, where St. Anthony's Face was blasted 
away. In tliis mountain solitude there was a shade of reason in giving that 
solemn countenance of stone the name of St. Anthony, as a good representa- 
tion of monastic life ; and, by a quiet sarcasm, the full-length nose below was 
probably thus suggested. 

The mountain opposite Cro' Nest is "Bull Hill," or, more classically, " Mt. 
Taurus." It is 1,500 feet high. Just above this is " Break Neck Hill." It is 
said that there was formerly a wild bull in these mountains who had failed to 
win the respect and confidence of the inhabitants, so the mountaineers 
organized a hunt and drove him over this hill, whose name stands a monu- 

32 



ment to his exit. The point at the foot of " Mt. Taurus" is known as "Little 
Stony Point.'* 

The Highlands now trend off to the northeast, and we see the New Beacon, 
or Grand Sachem Mountain, 1,685 feet high, and, about half a mile to the 
north, the Old Beacon, 1,471 feet in height. These mountains were used for 
signal stations during the Revolution, and were relit in 1883 in honor of the 
centennials of Fishkill and Newburgh. 

This section was known by the Indians as " Wequehache," or, "the Hill 
Country," and the entire range was called by the Indians " the endless hills," 
a name not inappropriate to this mountain bulwark. 
That ri(Jge along our eastern coast, 

From Carolina to the Sound, 
Opposed its front to England's host, 
And heroes at each pass were found. 

A vast primeval palisade, 

With bastions bold and wooded crest, 
A bulwark strong by nature made 

To guard the valley of the west. 

Along its height the beacons gleamed. 

It formed the nation's battle-line. 
Firm as the rocks and cliffs where dreamed 

The soldier-seers of Palestine." 

—From Wallace Bruce's Centennial Poem at Newburgh. 

It was also believed by the Indians that, in ancient days, "before the 
Hudson poured its waters from the lakes, the Highlands formed one vast 
prison, within whose rocky bosom the omnipotent Manito confined the 
rebellious spirits who repined at his control. Here, bound in adamantine 
chains, or jammed in rifted pines, or crushed by ponderous rocks, they 
groaned for many an age. At length the conquering Hudson, in its career 
toward the ocean, burst open their prison-house, rolling its tide triumphantly 
through the stupendous ruins.'' An idea quite in accordance with modern 
science. 

Pollopel's Island, east of the steamer's route, was once regarded as a 
haunted spot, but its only witches are said to be snakes too lively to be 
enchanted. In old times, the "new hands"' on the sloops were uncere- 
moniously dipped at this place, so as to be proof-christened against the 
goblins of the Highlands. 

CoRNWALL-ON-THE-HuDSON. — This locality N. P. Willis selected as the most 
healthy and picturesque point on the Hudson. The village lies in a lovely 
valley, which Mr. Beach has styled, in his able discription, as "an offshoot of 

33 



tlie Ramapo, up which the storm-winds of the ocean drive, laden witli the 
purest and freshest air." From the Cornwall and West Point mountain road 
we get the best idea of the topography of this sheltered valley. Idle wild, 
with its pleasant glen and sunny slope, has a beautiful location in the very 
centre of this charming landscape, and is one of the points to be visited. 

Newburgh, 59 miles from New York. As we approach the city of New- 
burgh, the tourist will see a building of rough stone, one story high, witTi 
steep roof — known as Washington's head-quarters, or the old "Hasbrouck 
house." It was owned by Jonathan Hasbrouck, in 1782 and '83, when Wash- 
ington made this city his head-quarters. The house, or at least the older por- 
tion, was built in 1750, and here, in the early part of the Revolution, public 
meetings were held, and throughout the war it was a central point. Has- 
brouck was a man of marked character, a Colonel of the militia, and in fre- 
quent service in guarding the Highland passes. It will also be remembered 
that it was here that Washington was invited to assume Kingship, which pro- 
position he rejected with scorn. It was here the rank and file of the Army 
chanted the old song which shewed they were men of the Cromwell stamp — 

"No King but God." 
It was here, also, that the army was advised to revolt, as Congress had not 
voted supplies, and a meeting was called by an anonymous letter, but the 
trouble was arrested by the touching address and appeal of Washington. 
His first sentence is remembered by every one. He commenced to read li,is 
manuscript without glasses, but was compelled to stop, and as he adjusted 
them to his eyes, he said, "You see, gentlemen, that I have not only grown 
gray, but blind, in your service." It is needless to say that the "anonymously 
called " meeting was not held. It was here, also, that the army was dis- 
banded, and the farewell orders of Washington read. 

The Centennial of the Disbanding was observed October 18, 1883. It was 
estimated that there were 150,000 visitors in Newburgh. Addresses were 
made by Senator Bayard, of Delaware ; William M. Evarts, of New York, and 
the poem rendered by Wallace Bruce, of Poughkeepsie. It is said that this 
is the largert audience ever addressed in this country. 

The Head-quarters are about one-half mile from the landing, and the tasty 
park which encloses it, well filled with trees, affords cheerful shade and " cool 
comfort " to the visitor. It retains a few warlike suggestions, in the shape of 
cannon and artillery of modern construction, and the grave of Uzal Knapp, 
the last of Washington's Life Guards. The grounds consist of five acres, and 
command a fine view of the Highlands and the river north and south. 

The room that we enter by the front porch abounds with relics in the shape 

34 



of old pictures, parchinents, manuscripts, many of which are very vahiable. 
In the room on the right the visitor will register his name, and add one to the 
235,000 signatures of those who have gone this way before him. In the room 
beyond this, to the right, is an old piano, of most harmonious discord, only 
119 or 120 years old. In the room opposite this are swords and muskets of 
different styles and patterns, each with its own history of the long struggle. 
The fire-place, open to the sky, is of the antique pattern, and it requires no 
great stretch of the imagination to surround it with the old heroes that were 




WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS, NEWBURGH, N. Y. 

here gathered a century ago. Newburgh can indeed be proud of this The- 
saurus, or *' treasure-house " of the century. The city rises from the river in a 
succession of terraces. It is one of the handsomest cities on the Hudson, and 
has a population of about tM^enty thousand. It was settled by the Palatines, 
in 1708. (This is the eastern terminus of the NcM^burgh Branch of the Erie 
R.R.) 

FiSHKiLL Landing and Matteawan, directly opposite, pleasantly located 
under the Fishkill Mountains. The New York and New England Railroad 
connects at this point with the Hudson River, and forms a direct route to 

35 



Hartford and Boston. The view from Beacon Mountain is worth the ascent, 
and the tourist ought not to neglect the opportunity." 

Low Point, or Carthage, is a small village on the east bank, about four 
miles north of Fishkill. It was called by the early inhabitants Low Point, as 
New Hamburgh, two miles to the north, was called High Point. Almost op- 
posite Low Point, on the west bank, is a large flat rock, covered with cedars, 
known as the — 

Duyvel's Dans Kammer. — Here Hendrich Hudson, in his voyage up the 
river, witnessed an Indian pow-wow — the first recorded fireworks in a country 
which has since delighted in rockets and pyrotechnic displays. Here, too, in 
later years, tradition relates the sad fate of a wedding-party. It seems that 
a Mr. Hans Hansen and a Miss Kathrina Van Voorman, with a few friends, 
were returning from Albany, and disref irding the old Indian prophecy, were 
all slain : — 

'* For none that visit the Indian's den, 
Return again to the haunts of men. 
The knife is their doom ! O sad is their lot ! 
Beware, beware of the blood-stained spot ! " 

Some years ago this spot was also searched for the buried treasures of Cap- 
tain Kidd, and we know of one river pilot who still dreams semi-yearly of 
there finding countless chests of gold. 

Two miles above, on the east side, we pass New Hamburgh, at the mouth 
of Wappinger's Creek. The name Wappinger had its origin from Wabun, 
east, and Acki, land. This tribe, a sub-tribe of the Mahicans, held the east 
bank of the river, from Manhattan to Roeliffe Jansen's Creek, which empties 
into the Hudson near Livingston, a few miles south of Catskill Station, on the 
Hudson River Railroad. Passing the little villager, of Hampton, Marlborough, 
and Milton, on the west bank, we see, on the east bank, — 

Locust Grove, residence of the late Prof. S. F. B. Morse, inventor of the 
electric telegraph, who for all time will receive the congratulations of every 
civilized nation, and the whole globe is destined one day to speak his lan- 
guage. Yes, the islands of the sea, and the people that sit afar off in dark- 
ness, are beginning to feel the pulses of the world through the "still small 
voice" whispering beneath ocean and river, and across mighty continents, 
" putting a girdle round the earth in forty minutes," like the fairy of Midsum- 
mer-Nighfs Dream. 

The Lookout, once known as Mine Hill, where Poughkeepsie people some 
years ago expected to find iron, is north of Locust Grove, on the east bank. 
It is now owned by the Poughkeepsie Cemetery, and preserved as a wooded 

36 



park. Driveways have been laid out, and the visitor can see from his carriage, 
at this point, one of the finest views of the Hudson. The completion of this 
road is largely due to the enterprise of Mr. George Corlies, who has done much 
during the last forty years to make Poughkeepsie beautiful. The view from 
this Lookout takes in the river for ten miles to the south, and is bounded on 
the north by the Catskills. In a recent ramble with Mr. Corlies over the 
Lookout Point, he told the writer that it was originally the purpose of Mat 
thew Vassar to erect a monument on PollopeFs Island to Hendrick Hudson. 
Mr. Corlies suggested this point as the most commanding site. Mr. Vassar 
visited it, and concluded to place the monument here. He published an arti- 
cle in the Poughkeepsie ])apers to this effect, and, meeting Mr. Corlies one 
week afterward, said, '' Not one person in the city of Poughkeepsie has re- 
ferred to my monument. I have decided to build a College for Women, 
where they can learn what is useful, practical and sensible." It is interesting 
to note the "first beginnings" of the first woman's college in the world, as it 
took form and shape in the mind of its founder. 

We now see Blue Point, on the west bank ; and, in every direction, we have 
the finest views. The scenery seems to stand, in character, between the sub- 
limity of the Highlands and the tranquil dreamy repose of the Tappan Zee. 
It is said that under the shadow of these hills was the favorite anchorage of — 

The Storm Ship, one of our oldest and therefore most reliable legends. 
The story runs somewhat as follows: Years ago, when New York was a 
village— a mere cluster of houses on the point now known as the Battery— 
when the Bowery w^as the farm of Peter Stuyvesant, and the old Dutch 
church on Nassau street, (already a lost landmark), was considered the 
country — when communication with the old world was semi-yearly instead of 
semi-weekly or daily — say one hundred and fifty years ago— the whole town 
one evening was put into great commotion by the fact that a ship was coming 
up the bay. She approached the Battery within hailing distance, and 
then, sailing against both wind and tide, turned aside and passed up the Hud- 
son. Week after week and month after month elapsed, but she never re- 
turned ; and whenever a storm came down on Haverstraw Bay or Tappan 
Zee, it is said that she could be seen careening over the waste ; and, in 
the midst of the turmoil, you could hear the captain giving orders in good 
Low Dutch; but when the weather was pleasant, her favorite anchorage 
was among the shadows of the picturesque hills, on the eastern bank, a few 
miles above the Highlands. It was thought by some to be Hendrich Hudson 
and his crew of the "Half Moon," who, it was well known, had once run 
aground in the upper part of. the river, seeking a northwest passage to 

38 



China ; and people who live in this vicinity still insist that under the calm 
harvest moon and the pleasant niglits of September, they see her under 
the bluff of Blue Point, all in deep shadow, save her topsails glittering in 
the moonlight, 

POUGHKEEPSIE, (seventy-four miles from New York), Queen City of the 
Hudson, derived from the Indian word Apokeepsing, signifies safe harbor. 
Near the landing is a bold rock jutting into the river, known as Kaal Rock, 
signifying barren rock ; and perhaps tliis also furnished a safe harbor or land- 
ing place for those days of birch canoes. It is said there are over forty differ- 
ent ways of spelling Poughkeepsie, and every year the Post-Office Record gives 
a new one. The first house was built in 1702 by a Mr. Van Kleek ; and the 
State Legislature held a session here in 1777 or 1778, when New York was 
held by the British, and Kingston had been burned by Vaughn. Ten years 
later, the State Convention also met here for ratification of the Federal Con- 
stitution. The city^ has a beautiful location, and is justly regarded the finest 
residence city on the river. It is not only midway between New York and 
Albany, but also midway between the Highlands and the Catskills, command- 
ing a view of the mountain portals on the south and the mountain overlook 
on the north — the Gibraltar of Revolutionary fame and the dreamland of Rip 
Van Winkle. The magnificent steamers which ply daily between New York 
and Albany, thirty trains on the best-appointed railroad in the country, and 
fine steamers of home enterprise, make the traveling facilities complete. The 
city has a population of 21,000 inhabitants — the largest between the capital 
and the metropolis. In addition to its natural beauty, Poughkeepsie is noted 
throughout our country for refined society, and as a nucleus of the finest 
schools in our country. 

Poughkeepsie Female Academy, under the rectorship of Rev. D. G. 
Wright, A. M., is located in the central part of the city, and has long been 
distinguished for thoroughness of instruction and carefulness of supervision. 
The building is ample and commodious ; the rooms large, well ventilated, 
and furnished with regard to taste, convenience, and home comfort. The 
laboratory is furnished with an excellent philosophical, chemical, and as- 
tronomical apparatus. Pupils are carried through a collegiate course, or fitted 
to enter any class in Vassar College. For many years this Academy has rank- 
ed among the first in our State in educational spirit and progress ; and there 
are few if any places, where young ladies acquire a more healthy mental or 
moral education, a more finished and perfect symmetry in the development 
of mind and heart. 

Vassar College is not seen from the river, and the Hudson River State 

40 



Hospital for the Insane, a large brick structure, two miles north of Pough- 
keepsie, is often mistaken for it by tourists. If the College had been located 
either north or south of the city, on some commanding site, it would have 
been one of the finest landmarks on the Hudson. The College is two miles 
east from the Landing, connected with it by horse railroad. 

Eastman Business College is also one of the fixed and solid institutions 
of Poughkeepsie, located in the very heart of the city. It has done good 
work in preparing young men for business, and has probably done more to 
make Poughkeepsie a familiar word in every household throughout the land 
than all her other institutions combined. It was fortunate for the city tliat 
the energetic founder of this College selected the central point of the Hudson 
as the place of all others most suited for his enterprise, and equally fortunate 
for the thousand young men who yearly graduate from this institution, as the 
city is beautifully located and set like a picture amid picturesque scenery. 
Every department of the College is thoroughly organized, and the course of 
training forms a good supplement to every young man's education. The 
me^e literary student is often launched upon the sea of life with very little 
knowledge of the practical. The idea of " Eastman College" is to teach the 
young man what he needs to knoic. The College was never more successful 
than to-day, and its reputation, like the Pacific Pailroad, reaches from New 
York to San Francisco. 

The Poughkeepsie, Hartford & Boston Railroad forms a direct route 
across the country, connecting the pleasant valleys of the Harlem, the Housa- 
tonic, and the Connecticut with the Hudson. The drives about Pough- 
keepsie are charming in every direction. On the west is Lake Mohonk 
and Minnewaska, for which point stages connect on the arrival of the 
Day -boat at Poughkeepsie. The Hyde Park drive is known the world 
over; also the ride over the South Road to New Hamburg and Fishkill 
Landing. 

The Poughkeepsie Bridge, a pier of which will be seen as the steamer 
leaves the dock, will (when completed) connect the Eastern States with 
the coal fields of Pennsylvania. We clip the following from the map and 
prospectus : 

"The Hudson River is one of the great natural boundaries dividing the 
United States into grand divisions or sections. The New England States, 
east of the Hudson, including New York City, ce n one-seventh of the 
whole population of the United States, and conti\ uore than one-half the 
manufacturing of the nation. These States are the most active and wealthy, 
and their business interests and capital are nearly equal to those of all 

43 



the rest of the Union. The great crossing places on the Hudson, over 
which now pass all the mighty streams of trade and travel between this 
great section of country and the wider and more rapidly growing West, 
are but two : one at Albany and Troy, the other at New York." 

A description of Poughkeepsie would be incomplete without reference to 
the extensive manufactory of Adriance, Piatt & Co., which we see near the 
river bank as we approach the landing. This firm commenced the manufac- 
ture and sale of the Buckeye Mower, at Poughkeepsie, with salesrooms in 
New York, in 1857 and 1858. The business has increased and enlarged in 
their hands materially, and they have attained such excellence in the manu- 
facture of their machines that their reputation is world-wide. It would be 
safe to say that three-fourths of the meadows in the River Valley are cropped 
by the steel-shuttled knives of the Buckeye. They have been awarded the 
highest honors in Germany, Holland, France, Belgium, Sweden, Norway, 
Italy, Russia, Switzerland, and the United States, and are now sold in every 
part of the civilized globe. 

FROM POUGHKEEPSIE TO RHINEBECK. 

New Paltz Landing, opposite Poughkeepsie, has many romantic spots and 
beautiful views from the surrounding hills. 

The Parthenon-shaped building, on the east bank, above Poughkeepsie, was 
built for a school, and the eminence is known as "College Hill." The large 
brick building north of this is the Hudson River State Hospital. 

The point on the west bank of the river is known as Crum Elbow, and on 
the hill above it resides Mrs. Spencer, an artist of original power, whose 
pictures have been known and commended for a quarter of a century. 

Hyde Park, (80 miles from New York), named, some say, in honor of Lady 
Ann Hyde ; according to others after Sir Edward Hyde, one of the early 
British Governors of the Colony. The village is on the bluff one mile from 
the river. The large building on the west bank opposite Hyde Park is known 
as the Manresa Institute ; and above this are the homes of A. R. Frothing- 
ham, John Burroughs, and General Butterfield. The first prominent place 
above Hyde Park, on the east side, is the residence of Walter Langdon, Mrs. 
Kirkpatrick's, known as "Drayton House," a villa of the Italian order of 
architecture, is next to the north ; and above this, Placentia, onee the home of 
James K. Paulding, now owned by Mr. N. P. Rogers. 

Passing Esopus Island, and Robert Pell's residence, on the west bank, and 
Staatsburg dock, on the east bank, we see the beautiful grounds and resi- 
dence of Wm. B. Dinsmore. 

44 



From this point, looking across Vanderberg Cove, on the east bank, we see 
a residence known as Wildercliffe, owned by Edward R. Jones. North of this, 
also on the east bank, is the Ellersiie Estate. 

Passing Port Ewen, on the west bank, the steamer lands at Rhinecliff, or — 

Rhinebeck Landing. — (90 miles from New York). The village of Rhine- 
beck is two miles east from the landing and cannot be seen from the 
river. It was named, as some say, by combining two words — Beekman 
and Rhine. Others say that the word heck means cliff, and the town was 
so named from the resemblance of the cliffs to those of the Rhine. 

The De Garmo Institute, at Rhinebeck— Prof. De Garmo, Principal and 
Proprietor— is one of the most thorough and complete of academies, and 
is always full. Its classical and Scientitic Departments are superior 

The Hartford & Connecticut Western Railroad meets the Hudson 
at Rhinecliff, and makes a pleasant and convenient tourist and business 
route between the Hudson and the Connecticut. It passes through a de- 
lightful country and thriving rural villages. Some of the views along the 
Roeliffe Jansen's Kill are unrivalled in quiet beauty. The railroad passes 
through Rhinebck, Red Hook, Spring Lake, Ellerslie, Jackson Corners, 
Mount Ross, Gallatinville, Ancram, Copake, Boston Corners, and Mount 
Riga to State Line Junction, and gives a person a good idea of the coun- 
ties of Dutchess and Columbia. 'At Boston Corners connection is made 
with the New York & Harlem Railroad. 

From State Line Junction it passes through Ore Hill, Lakeville, with its 
beautiful lake, (an evening view of which is still hung in our memory 
gallery of sunset sketches), Salisbury, Chapinville, and Twin Lakes to 
Canaan, where the line crosses the Housatonic Railroad. This route, there- 
fore, is the easiest and jjleasantest for the Housatonic visitors en route to 
the Catskills. ^ From Canaan the road rises by easy grade to the Summit, 
at an elevation of 1400 feet, i^assing through the village of Norfolk with 
its picturesque New England church crowning the village hill. 

From the Summit we pass through the prosperous villages of West Winsted 
and Winsted ; through the picturesque valleys .of New Hartford, Pine 
Meadow, Collinsville, and Canton to Simsbury, a cultured village in charming 
rural setting. 

From Simsbury, a run of half an hour takes the tourist throvigh Hoskins, 
Tariffville, Scotland, Bloomfield, and Cottage Grove, to Hartford, the pros- 
perous and enterprising capital of Connecticut. At Hartford connections are 
made with the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad, with New York 
& New England and Hartford & Connecticut Valley Railways ; at Simsbury, 

45 



with New Haven & Northampton Railroad ; at Winsted, with Naugatuck Rail- 
road. No route presents more varied or beautiful scenery. The road is under 
excellent management, and is fortunate in possessing in its superintendent Mr. 
Jno. F. Jones, a thoroughly practical man. 

City of Kingston (population 20,000).— Rondout, on the Hudson, and 
Kingston, on the hill, have been tied together into one city, with the City 
Hall on a hill midway between for a bow-knot. The name Rondout 
had its derivation from a redoubt that was built on the banks of the creek. 
The creek took the name of Redoubt Kill, afterward Rundoubt, and at last 
Rondout — a much more sensible name than Athens or Rome for a town on 
the Hudson. Kingston was once called Esopus on Esopus Creek, which flows 
north and empties into the Hudson at Saugerties. (The Indian name for 
Kingston was At-kar-karton, the great plot or meadow on which they raised 
corn or beans.) 

Kingston was settled in 1614, and thrice destroyed by the Indians before 
the Revolution. In 1777 the State Legislature here met and formed a con- 
stitution. In the fall of the same year, after the capture of Forts Mont- 
gomery and Clinton by the British, General Vaughan landed at Rondout, 
marched to Kingston and burned the town. He remained until he received 
the news of Burgoyne's surrender, when he returned to New York. While 
Kingston was burning, the inhabitants fled to Hurley, where a small force 
of Americans hung a messenger who ^vas caught carrying dispatches from 
Clinton to Burgoyne. 

Irving, in his Life of Washington, says: "On the 9th (October) two per- 
sons coming from Fort Montgomery were arrested by the guard, and 
brought for examination. One was much agitated, and was observed fo 
put something hastily into his mouth and swallow it. An emetic was ad- 
ministered, and brought up a silver bullet. Before he could be prevented 
he swallowed it again. Ou his refusing a second emetic, the Governor 
threatened to have him hanged and his body opened. This threat pro- 
duced the bullet in the preceding manner. It was oval in form, and hol- 
low, with a screw in the centre, and contained a note from Sir Henry 
Clinton to Burgoyne, written on a slip of thin paper, and dated October 
8th, from Fort Montgomery, 'Nous y rozcz (here we are), and nothing be- 
tween us and Gates. I sincerely hope this little success of ours will facili- 
tate your operations.'" 

Rondout is the termination of the Delaware and Hudson Canal, (whence canal 
boats of coal find their way from the Pennsylvania Mountains to tide-water), 
and the Ulster and Delaware Rail Road, l)y which people find their way from 

46 



tide-water to the mountains, which now greet the eye of the tourist, north- 
west of Kingston. 

A short time ago, on our last trip to the Mountains, it occurred to us to ar- 
range our article on the "Catskills" in two parts — viz., the Southern Catskills 
and the Northern Catskills — not so much as relating to the mountains them- 
selves as to the routes of the traveler. First, then — 

The Southern Catskills (Ulster and Delaware Railroad). 

Reaching the Rondout dock, we take the train in waiting for the Mountain 
district. As we stand on the rear platform a friend points north to a bluff 
near Kingston Point and says the Indian name is "Ponckhockie," — Indian 
for Burial Ground. A good Scotch mile of steep grade brings us to the Wal- 
kill Valley Railroad Junction, 184 feet above the river and one-half mile 
farther to Kingston Station. Our friend also told us to note the old redoubts 
of Kingston on the left ; we forgot to do so, but we commend his advice to 
the traveler. They were defenses used in early days against the Indians. 

After leaving Kingston the next station is Stony Hollow, eight miles from 
Rondout, and the traveler will note the stone tracks in the turnpike below on 
the right side of the car, used by quarry wagons. Crossing the Stony Hollow 
ravine, we reach West Hurley, nine miles from Rondout and 530 feet above 
the sea. 

The Overlook Mountain House, the most suggestive and to our minds 
the most appropriately christened of any of the Mountain hotels or peaks, is 
nine miles distant by stage from West Hurley. The Overlook stands like a 
sentinel or outpost of this mountain phalanx, and commands a wide and ex- 
tensive view. The mountain, according to Prof. Guiot, is 3,150 feet high, 
and, as we walked up one summer evening a few years ago, we feel sure that 
he is right. 

Four miles from West Hurley Ave passed througli the little village of Wood- 
stock, the post-office of the Overlo* k House. The hotel is 500 or 600 feet 
higher than any other in the Catsicills or in the State, and the view embraces 
an area of 30,000 square miles from the peaks of New Hampshire and the 
Green Mountains of Vermont to the hills of New Jersey and Pennsylvania. 
To the east the valley reaches away with its towns and villages to the blue 
hills of Massachusetts and Connecticut, and tiirough this beautiful valley, 
: the Hudson for a hundred miles is reduced to a mere ribbon of light. The 
j house, completed in the Spring of 1878 and enlarged in 1879, is well furnished, 
heated by steam, lighted with gas, connected with the outside world by tele- 

47 




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graph, and two mails daily. Echo Lake and the picturesque falls of the 
Plattekill, are respectively one mile and a half and three miles distant. 

A new turnpike road has been built from the Overlook to the Plattekill 
Clove, passing over the mountain at Grand View, also a new drive around the 
top of Overlook Mountain, and on the highest point has been erected a tower 
with a fine telescope. 

Returning from the "Overlook'' to West Hurley, we pursue our journey 
westward via the Ulster and Delaware, through Olive Branch and Brown's 
Station to 

Broadhead's Bridge, 17 miles from Rondout. Bishop Falls are near 
this station. Passing through 

Shokan, 18 miles from Rondout, the road takes u northerly course ; and 
we are advised by Mr. Van Loan's Ciuide— which is, by the way, the best 
companion one can have as a hand-book to the Catskills — to notice on the 
left ' ' a group of five mountains forming a crescent ; the peaks of these 
mountains are four miles distant;" the right-hand one is the "Witten- 
berg," and the next "Mount Cornell." 

Passing through Boiceville and Mount Pleasant, 24 nules from Rondout, 
700 feet above the Hudson, we enter the beautifwl Shandaken Valley, and 
three miles of charming mountain scenery brings us to 

Phcenicia, 27 miles from Rondout. This is one of the central points of 
the Catskills which the mountain streams (Nature's engineers) indicated 
several thousand years ago. More modern engineers completed in 1881 a 
narrow-gauge road to Hunter, which is in fine running order. The read- 
ers of ' ' Hiawatha " will remember that Gitche Manito, the mighty, traced 
with his finger the way the streams and rivers should run. The tourist 
will be apt to think that lie used his thumb in marking out the wild gran- 
deur of Stony Clove. 

I Tlie Tremper House, at Phoenicia, has a beautiful and picturesqe loca- 
jtion, and the Hotel itself is a model and gem of neatness and comfort. 
The beautiful and extensive lawn in front and the charming valley seem 
Ito have been cut to fit, like a beautiful carpet, and tacked down to the 
edges of these grand old mountains. 

\ The Romer Mountain is southwest. Mount Slicridan northwest, and Hunter 
Mountain in the rear, seen from the upper window of the Hotel. A fif- 
teen minutes' walk up Mount Tremper gives a wide view, and the Lake 
Mohonk House is seen forty miles distant. There is a small lake that 
covers about an acre a short distance from the Hotel which, with its row- 
aoats is a very pleasant feature among the hills. 

49 

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The house is situated at the entrance of Stony Clove (through which Notch 
the Stony Clove and Hunter Railroad passes.) It has, therefore, a command- 
ing as well as a beautiful site, for its guards the new threshold of the moun- 
tains. It is also midway between the two highest peaks of the Catskill range 
—the "Slide Mountain in Ulster County, 4220 feet, and the Hunter Mountain 
in Greene, 4052 feet. These mountains, with the Wittenberg, Mount Cornell, 
Panther Mountain and Balsam Mountain, are each less than seven miles dis- 
tant. The house is furnished in first-class style, and lias all the accommoda- 
tions of a first-class hotel. In fact, this railroad has brought the Catskills to 
our very doors, and the trip is as easy as from New York to Philadelphia. 
Mr. Tremper, the proprietor, has reason to congratulate himself on the 
popularity and success of his Mountain Hotel. 

Pursuing our route westward from Phoenicia, we pass trough Fox Hollow, 
thirty-two miles from Rondout, 990 feet above tide- water, and come to — 

Shandaken, named after an old chief of the Delaware. There is a remarka- 
ble butternut tree that the traveler will see shortly after leaving Shandaken 
Station. We have Mr. Van Loan for authority, that "It was 75 years old in 
1878, and that year bore 75 bushels of butternuts." Three miles beyond 
Shandaken we come to a little station which reminds one of the Plains, viz : 

Bia Indian. — It is said that about seventy or eiglity years ago a noble red 
man lived in these parts who, early in life, turned liis attention to agriculture 
instead of scalping, and lived in this valley, then a wilderness, respected by 
the community. He was said to have been about eight feet in height and 
very muscular. He was attacked one day by wolves, and slew a few of them, 
but was overpowered by numbers. He was buried by liLs brethren not far 
from the station, and a "big Indian " was carved out of a tree near by for his 
monument. Mr. Guigou, sr., told me tliat he remembered the rude statue 
well, and often thought that it ought to be saved for a relic, as the stream 
was washing away the roots ; but it was finally carried down by a freshet, 
; and probably found its way to some fireplace in the Esopus Valley. " So man 
I passes away," etc., vide Irving's essay " Westminster Abbey." 
i The next station west of Big Indian is 

Pine Hill, 39 miles from Rondout, and 1,660 feet elevation. Just before 
I reaching the station we see a large and pleasant hotel on the right, and taking 
I the omnibus at the station, drive through the pleasant little village of Pine 
! Hill, one-half mile to the Guigou House, a hotel well known for its successful 
and thorough management. The Shandaken Valley is known everywhere as 
lone of the most charming valleys of the entire Catskills, and this hotel is 
' situated in the very heart of its beauty. The Esopus Creek flows in front of 

51 






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the hotol. The Guigou stream heads from springs about half a mile distant. 
Birch Creek, one mile north, is a fine trout stream, and we are confirmed in 
the idea by the nice trout on the breakfast- table. Big Indian stream is two 
miles below, antl the Mabie brook one mile l)elow. Pine Hill is the best 
starting-point for Slide Mountain. 

Standing on the piazza of the Hotel the Panther Mountain is south east, the 
Balsam Mountain in front, and directly in the rear of the Hotel is Rose Moun- 
tain. In the neighborhood is Monkey Hill, which has recently been purchased 
by the proprieior of the Guigou. It is proposed to build a fine road to the 
smnmit, which has an altitude of 2500 feet. This is the finest view-point on 
the Ulster and Delaware R. R. From this hill we see Balsam Mountain, Rose 
Mountain, Panther Mountain near at hand, and Slide Mountain 12 miles dis- 
tant, the Cornell and Wittenberg, 12 miles distant, Peak a Moose 18 miles dis- 
tant, and "Dominie Hammond's Tomb," 20 miles distant, including charming 
views of Delaware and Ulster Counties. The Hotel has been recently rebuilt 
and enlarged, so that it can now accommodate 200 guests. 

The next station west of Pine Hill is — 

The Summit, the highest point of the Ulster and Delaware Railroad, 1886 
feet above tide-water, forty one miles from Rondout. This is the station for 
the Grand Hotel, appropriately named, not only for its commanding location 
but also for its architectural features and interior furnishing. From a long 
distance down the vallej^ we see it, like a beautiful picture, framed by the 
forest and woodland. The main building faces southwest and overlooks the 
hamlet of Pine Hill, down the Shandaken Valley to Big Indian. The moun- 
tains "grouped like giant kings" in the distance are Slide Mountain, Panther 
Mountain, Table and Balsam Mountains. Slide Mountain, the highest of the 
Catskill group, is 4,220 feet above the tide. Panther Mountain, directly over 
Big Indian Station, with Atlas-like shoulders, is 3,800 feet in height, and, be- 
ing nearer than Slide Mountain, seems to be higher, and is often mistaken 
for Slide Mountain. Table Mountain is to the right of the Slide, and is the 
divide between the east branch of the Ncisink and the Rondout. 

The beautiful maple and beech woods immediately behind the hotel afford a 
shady and pleasant walk to the summit of the mountain. No one should fail 
to get the grand view from this commanding point. The hotel is under the 
admirable management of Captain Gillette, and if any one thinks the writer 
of this little hand-book enthusiastic, we can only say, come and see, — judge it 
from the proper altitude — and we predict that your letters to your friends will 
be a fitting postscript to our enthusiasm. 
• Returning to Phcjenicia, we take the Stony Clove and Kaaterskill Mountain 

53 




SUNSET KOCK. 



Railroad to the hotels of the grand eastern outlook — "fronting the sunrise 
and in beauty throned." This narrow-guage railroad offers a quick and 
charming route to Hunter, Tannersville and Haines' Corners. It is also the 
direct route by means of stage connection at Hunter to Heusonville and 
Windham, The beautiful Stony Clove Pass makes a delightful trip ; and the 
continuation of this mountain railroad brings the tourist to the very door of 
the Hotel Kaaterskill. 

It was on this charming outlook that Henry Abbey, of Kingston, w^rote his 
beautiful poem, "The Spirit of the Mountain," which appears in his last 
published volume. "The City of Success." We quote the last verses, the 
question of the poet and the answer of the spirit of the mountain. It is a 
beautiful conception : — the spirit of the mountain toiling through unnumber- 
ed centuries to rear up the mountains which are slowly crumbling aw^ay : — 

"O Spirit of the Mountain ! 

O toiler deep of yore ! 
Vast is thy past behind thee, 

Thy future vast before. 
We call thee everlasting ; 

Our life is like a day ; 
Arc time and tide against thee ? 

Mtist thou too pass away ? 

(the spirit answers) 
"I see thy generations. 
That wither as the rose, 
And feel the isolation 
Which wraps unmoved repose. 



"Yet slowly, ever slowly, 

I melt again to be 
Lost in my grand, gray lover, 

The wild, unresting sea. 
I can not hear his moaning. 

But know that, on the shore. 
He flings his spray-arms toward me 

And calls me evermore.'' 

The Hotel Kaaterskill. — This new hotel, whose name and fame went 
over a continent even before it was fairly completed, is located on the 
summit of the Kaaterskill Mountain, It is the largest and most complete 
mountain hotel in the world, and the Catskills hav^e reason to feel proud 
of this distinction. They have for many years had the best-known legend 
in the world — the wonderful and immortal Rip Van Winkle. They have 
always enjoyed the finest valley views of any mountain outlook, and they 

55 




VIEW FROM NORTH MOUNTAIN, HOTEL 
KAATERSKILL IN THE DISTANCE. 

can now felicitate themselves on the 
possession of the finest hotel. It was 
our privilege to stand upon the beau- 
tiful piazza the day before the grand 
opening, and, as we took in the com- 
manding view, we felt that it was lo- 
cated exactly in the right place. Sixty , mmtm"^^ 
miles of the Hudson River, High Peak W /J'^y 
and Round Top Mountain, Kaaterskill Clove, Sunset Rock, and many other 
interesting views are seen from the grand porches of the hotel. 

The Kaaterskill was first opened in 1881, having been constructed on the 

56 




H 




most improved of modern designs, with elegant parlors, suites of rooms for 
families, and steam heat and open fire grates for dining halls and parlors. 
Elevators run to all floors, and the rooms are supplied with gas, electric 
bells and elegant beds and furnishings. The surrounding park includes 
groves, lakes, lawn tennis and other play-grounds, with every means of 
enjoyment. Billiard rooms, bowling alleys and telegraph offices are in the 
the hotel. 

The new mountain road to Palenville is a beautiful piece of engineering 
— as smooth as a floor, and securely built. It looks as if it were intended 
to last for a century, the mason work is so thoroughly finished. The views 
from this road are superior to anything we have seen in the Catskills, and 
the great sweep of the mountain clove is as grand and beautiful as the 
Sierra Nevadas on the way to the Yosemite. We think we use the proper 
adjectives when we say that the hotel is complete and artistic and the 
views grand and magnificent. 

There is another Mountain Railroad indicated in our article — The Northern 
Catskills — which gives access to tliis Hotel and Mountain district via Pa- 
lenville. 

Returning to tlic Hudson River Day Boats, wliich wo left at Rhinebeck, we 
pursue our trip up the river. 

FROM RHINEBECK TO CATSKILL. 

The old stone house on the hill, above Rhinebeck, is the Beekman House, 
said to have been built before 1700. It served as a church and as a fort 
during the Indian struggles, and still preserves the lionorable scar of a cannon 
ball from an English ship. Passing FenicUff, WilliaTn Astor's residence, on 
the East l)ank, and Garretson place, at Clifton Point, with the village of Flat- 
bush on the West side, we see, a few miles to the north, Barrytown, oil the East 
bank, 06 miles from New York. It is said when Jackson was President, and 
this village wanted a post-office, that he would not allow it under the name of 
Barrytown, from personal dislike to General Barry, and suggested another 
name. But the people were loyal to their old friend, and went without a post- 
office until a new administration. The name of Barrytown, therefore, stands 
as a monument to pluck. The place is known among the old settlers as 
Lower Red Hook Landing. 

Montgomery Place. — About one half-mile north of Barrytown the tourist 
will see a residence, formerly occupied by Mrs. Montgomery, wife of General 
Montgomery, who fell on the Heights of Quebec. A dramatic incident, taken 
from Stone's History of New York City, we imagine, will be of interest to the 

58 




A bird's-eye view of the HUDSON VALLEY. 



tourist, and, we therefore, transcribe it: " In 1818 the Lo^^islature of New 
York— De Witt Clinton Governor— ordered the remains of General Montgom- 
ery to be removed from Canada to New York. This was in accordance with 
the wishes of the Continental Congress, which, in 1776, had voted the beauti- 
ful cenotaph to his memory that now stands in the wall of St. Paul's Church, 
fronting Broadway. When the funeral cortege reached Whitehall, N. Y., 
the fleet stationed there received them with appropriate honors ; and on the 
4th of July, they arrived in Albany. After lying in state in that city over 
Sunday, the remains were taken to New York, and on Wednesday deposited, 
with military honors, in their final resting place, at St. Paul's. Governor 
Clinton had informed Mrs. Montgomery when the steamer Richmond, with 
the body of her husband, would pass her mansion on the North River. At her 
own request, she stood alone on the portico at the moment that the boat 
jmssed. It was now forty years since she had parted from her husband, and 
they had been married only two years ; yet she had remained as faithful to 
the memory of her "soldier," as she always called him, as if alive. The 
steaml3oat halted before the mansion ; the band played the " Dead March" : 
and a salute was fired : and the ashes of the venerated hero, and the departed 
husband, passed on. The attendents of the Spartan widow now appeared, 
but, overcome by the tender emotions of the moment, she had swooned and 
fallen to the floor." 

It will be remembered that Mrs. Montgomerj- was a sister of the distinguish- 
ed Chancellor Livingston. 

Passing Cruger's Island, east of the steamer's channel, we see a bay across 
the track of the Hudson River Rail Road, known as North Bay. It was here 
that Robert Fulton built the "Clermont," receiving pecuinary aid from 
Chancellor Livingston. It was through his influence that Fulton secured 
from the State Legislature of New York the passage of an Act granting to 
himself the exclusive privilege of navigating the waters of the State bj' means 
of steam power. The only conditions imposed were that he should, within a 
year, construct a boat of not less than twenty tons burthen, which should 
navigate the Hudson at a speed not less than four miles an hour, and that one 
such boat should not fail of running regularly between New York and Albany 
for tlie space of one year. The Legislature probably intended that Fulton 
should run an ice boat when the Hudson was frozen over, or else they must 
have been sleepy when they passed the bill. 

TIVOLI, (one hundred miles from New York), is just above the bay. There 
is a ferry at this point for Saugerties. The residence of the late Col. de Pey- 
ster is on a wooded l)luff, north of Tivoli, built before the Revolution, by one 

00 



of the Livingston family. The Britisli stopped here with the idea of burning 
the place, but the proprietor was in possession of a well-stocked wine celler, 
and the wrath of the invaders was mollified. 

Saugerties. — The long dock, on the west bank, shows the enterprise of 
this pleasant village — 101 miles from New York. Population, 4,000. The 
Esopus Creek empties into the Hudson at this point. The Catskill Mountain 
Road, from Saugerties. passes through a wild and rugged chasm, known as 
the Plattekill Clove. 

Passing Maiden, on the east bank, above Saugerties, and Evesport, and West 
Camp, little villages, devoted to the flag-stone interests, we see — 

Germantown, on the east bank. The view from this point is very fine. 

Between Germantown and Catskill the traveler obtains a fine view of the 
reclining giant, readily traced by the following outline : — the peak to the south 
is the knee ; the next to the north is the hreast ; and two or three above this, 
the cldii, the nose, and the forehead. The highest Point of the Catskills is 
4,200 feet above the tide. Indian name of the Catskills was Ontiora, or 
Mountains of the Sky. 

We are tempted to quote again from Mr. Abbey's book the Legend, which 
he has put in verse, of Ontiora coming down from the northern lakes arrested 
midway l)y the wand of Manito 

"In the sleep, or night, of the moon 
The monster was g<talking abroad, 
On his way to the sea for a bath, 
For a bath in' the salt, gray sea ; 
And he trod the Red-men down, 
Slaying them as he went, 
Or drove them out of the land 
As the winter drives the birds. 

"Midway between the lakes 
And the waters that reach to the sky — 
Between the crystal fountains 
And the headstrong, white-i)himcd sea — 
And near the King of Rivers, 
Which widens and deepens like life, 
To Ontiora spoke 
Manito, out of the sky, 
Manito, father of all, 
The one Great Spirit of Good, 
To the man-shaped monster spoke ; 
' You shall not go to the sea ; 
But forever here on the land. 
Shall lie on your giant back, 

61 



And wail in the blast, and weep 
For the Red-men you have slain.' 

" So Ontiora wild, 
By eternal quiet touched. 
Fell backward in a swoon, 
And was cnanged into peaceful hills, 
The Mountains of the Sky. 

"And whenever you sail along 
By the Kaatskills high and grand, 
You may see the fonn of him, 
The monster that, moons ago. 
The Manito changed into this, 
He lies with his face to the sky, 
You can mark his knees and breast, 
And forehead lofty and large ; 
But his eyes, they say, are lakes 
Wliose tears flow down in streams 
That seam and wrinkle his cheeks. 
For the fate that he bears, and regret 
For the evil ho did, as he stalked 
In the sleep, or night, of the moon, 
Moons on Moons ago." 

Wallace Bruce, in his Holiday Poem, " The Hudson," also alludes to 
Ontiora in the following stanzas : — 

" The Catskills to the northwtird rise. 

With massive swell and towering crest, 
The old-time 'Mountains of the Skies,' 

The threshold of eternal rest. 
Where Manito once lived and reigned 

Great Spirit of a race gone by. 
And Ontiora lies enchained 

With face uplifted to the sky. " 

RoELiFFE Jansen's Creek meets the Hudson, on the east bank, a short dis- 
tance above Germantown. This stream rises in Hillsdale, Columbia County, 
within a few feet of the Greenriver Creek, which Bryant has embalmed in 
verse. The Greenriver flows east into the Housatonic. The Jansen flows 
south into Dutchess County, and then takes a northerly course until it joins 
the Hudson. The Original Livingston Manor House stood at the mouth of 
this creek. When General Vaughan burned Kingston, he sent an exjiedition 
up the river, and the original Manor House w^as burned. A new mansion, 
however, was built, and "Claremont" is still one of the finest country-seats 
on the Hudson. 

62 



CaTSKill, (111 miles from New York, Population 4,000). The landing is im- 
mediately above the mouth of the Catskill, or Kaaterskill Creek. It is said that 
the Creek and mountains took their name from the following fact: It is 
known that each tribe had a totemic emblem, or rude banner ; the Mahicans 
had the wolf as their emblem, and some say that the word Mahicans means 
the enchanted wolf. (The Lenni Lenapes, or Delawares, at the Highlands, 
had the turkey as their totem.) Catskill was the southern boundary of the 
Mahicans on the west bank, and here they set up their emblem. It is said, 
from this fact the stream took the name of the Kaaters-kill. The large cat 




IRVING HOUSE,— H. A. Person, Proprietor 
In the heart of the village, and near the station of the Catskill Mountain Road. 

and wolf were at least similar in appearance, from the mark of King Aepgin 
in his deed to Van Rensselaer. Perhaps, however, the mountains at one time 
abounded in these animals, and the emblem may be only a coincidence. The 
old village, with its Main Street, lies along the valley of the Catskill Creek, 
not quite a mile from the Causeway Landing, and preserves some of the 
features of the days when Knickerbocker was accustomed to pay it an annual 
visit. Its location seems to have been chosen as a place of security — out of 
sight to one voyaging up the river. It has, however, grown of late, and the 

63 



northern slope is covered with fine residences, all of which command exten- 
sive views of the Hudson. The " Irving flouse," is the appropriate name of 
the largest and best hotel in the village, as Catskill owes a large part of its 
present popularity — probably more than it imagines — to the pen of Washing- 
ton Irving. It is fitted up with all the conveniences of a first-class hotel, and is 
kept open during the whole year. 

The Catskill Mountain Railroad runs from Catskill dock to Palenville, at 
the foot of the mountains. The West Shore Railroad crosses the Catskill 
Creek west of the village and connects with the Mountain Railroad at the 
crossing. 

THE NORTHERN CATSKILLS. 

Some pages back we spoke of the Southern Catskills, not so much as relat- 
ing to the mountains as to emphasize the fact of the tivo routes, which con- 
verge from Kingston and Catskill toward each other, drawn by the principal 
mountain points of attraction, viz : the Catskill Mountain House and the Hotel 
Kaaterskill ; and the traveler, by either route, will find himself soon in the 
heart of the mountains. To go via one route and return by another gives 
pleasant variety to the trip. Passengers, leaving the boat at Catskill, reach 
Palenville by the Catskill Mountain Railroad, and then ascend the mountain 
by stage. 

Catskill Mountain House. — For miles up and down the river we can see 
the Mountain House, known all over the world for the last half of a century. 
This hotel has been for years the favorite summer resort on the river, and has 
kept its old time prestige. It remains open until October 1st, to enable visitors 
to enjoy the early autumnal changes of the foliage, which add greatly to the 
scenery. It is distinguished for its beautiful location and healthful atmos- 
phere. It seems as if its rocky balcony was built out by nature to overlook 
the lovely valley of the Hudson. The Mountain House Park consists of 3,000 
acres, and has a valley frontage of over three miles in extent. It includes 
within its boundaries North and South Lakes. According to Indian fable, 
these little lakes upon the summit were regarded as the eyes of " Ontiora," 
and are open all the summer ; but in the winter they are covered with a thipk 
crust or heavy Aim ; but whether sleeping or waking, tears always trickle 
down his cheeks. Here, according to Indian belief, was kept the great 
treasury of storm and sunshine, presided over by an old squaw spirit who 
dwelt on the highest peak of the mountains.- She kept day and night shut up 
in her wigwam, letting out only one at a time. She manufactured new 

64 



^22 = ^'^^ r\ 

B as ** a> ^ fD J_^ 
P 




raOOns every month, cutting up the old ones into stars, and, like the old 
^olus of mythology, shut the winds up in the caverns of the hills. 

A morning view from the Mountain House Cliff will be remembered a life- 
time ; at least we remember, as if it were yesterday, a July morning three 
years ago. We rose at 3.30, and patiently waited the sun's advent, while the 
rosy dawn announced the morning coming with "looks all vernal and with 
cheeks all bloom." The ivindows of the Mountain House, one after another, 
began to reveal undreamed visions of loveliness, and it were really difficult to 
tell which had the deeper interest, the sun's rising in the east, or the daughters 
in the west. The rosy clouds of the one, the tender blushes of the other ; the 
opening eyelids of the morning, or the opening eyelids of innocence. In four 
minutes more by solar time, and the sun would sprinkle the golden dust of 
light over the valley of the Hudson. The east was all aglow, and, as we 
stood musing the fire burned, yes, brighter and brighter, as if the distant hills 
were an altar, and a sacrifice w^as being offered up to the God of Day. 

Cities and villages below us sprang into being, and misty shapes rose from 
the valley, as if Day had rolled back the stone from the Sepulcher of Night, 
and it was rising transfigured to Heaven. Adown and up the river for the 
distance of sixty miles, sloops and schooners drifted lazily along, while be- 
low us the little 

" ferry-boats plied 

Like slow shuttles through the sunny warp 

Of threaded silver from a thousand brooks." 

Truly the Catskills were a fitting place for the artist Cole to gather 
inspiration to complete that beautiful series of paintings, "The Voyage of 
Life," for no finer mountains in all the world overlook a finer river. 

Two miles from the hotel are the Kaaterskill Falls. The waters fall 
perpendicularly 175 feet and afterward 85 feet more. The amphitheatre 
behind the cascade is the scene of one of Bryant's finest poems : 

"From greens and shades where the Kaaterskill leaps 
From clifEs where the wood flowers cling ; '' 

and we recall the lines which express so beautifully the well-nigh fatal dream 

"Of that dreaming one 
By the base of that icy steep 

When over his stiffening limbs begun 
The deadly slumbers of frost to cree])." 

About half-way up the mountain is the place said to be the dreamland of 
Rip Van Winkle — the greatest cliaracter of American Mythology, more real 
than the heroes of Homer or the massive gods of Olympus. And our age has 

66 



reason to congratulate itself on the j^ossession of Joseph Jefferson and John 
Rogers, who on the stage and in the studio have illustrated to the life this 
master-piece of Irving. 
Tlie cut here given represents Rip Van Winkle at home, the favorite of the 








„f VAN \M1IMKLL Ml 

Mi" AT HOME JliJ^ 




village children. You will remember Irving says, " the children of the vil- 
lage would shout with joy whenever he approached, he assisted at their 
sports, made them playthings, taught them to fly kites and shoot marbles, 
and told them long stories of ghosts, witches and Indians. Whenever he 
went dodging about the village he was surrounded by a troop of them hang- 
ing on his skirts, clambering on his back and playing a thousand tricks on 
him with impunity."' Two others complete the group, Rip Van Winkle on 
the mountains, and Rip Van Winkle returned. As will be seen above, the 
figure of Rip was modelled from Mr. Jefferson, who sat for his likeness. And 
as we turn away from the Catskills, with visions of beauty and reality of fic- 
tion, we can only say, don't fail to hear the great actor when opportunity 
occurs, don't fail to read again the story of Irving, and don't fail to have the 
finest group of statuary in the world, — price twelve dollars each. 

These, with the courtship of Ichabod and Katrina, give an artistic delinea- 
tion of the comic-tragedy and the tragic-comedy of the Hudson. A stamp 

67 



enclosed to John Rogers, 23 Union Square, will procure a fine illustrated cata- 
logue and price-list. 

Irving's description of his first voyage up the Hudson brings us gracefully 
down from these mountains to the Hudson — the level liighway to the sea. " Of 
all the scenery of the Hudson, the Kaatskill Mountains had the most witching 
effect on my boyish imagination. Never shall I forget the effect upon me 
of my first view of them, predominating over a wide extent of country — part 
wild, woody and rugged, part softened away into all the graces of cultivation. 
As we slowly floated along, I lay on the deck and watched them through a 
long summer's day ; undergoing a thousand mutations under the magical 
effects of atmosphere ; sometimes seeming to approach ; at other times to 
recede ; now almost melting into hazy distance, now burnished by the setting 
sun, until in the evening they printed themselves against the glowing sky in 
the deep purple of an Italian landscape." 



FROM CATSKILL TO HUDSON. 

Leaving the Catskill dock, the tourist will see the Prospect Park Hotel, on a 
commanding point on the west bank, and north of this Cole's Grove, where 
Thomas Cole, the artist, lived, who painted the well-known series, the Voyage 
of Life. On the east side is Rodger's Island, where it is said the last battle 
was fought between the Mahicans and Mohawks ; and, it is narrated that "as 
the old king of the Mahicans was dying, after the conflict, he commanded his 
regalia to be taken off and his son put into the kingship while his eyes were 
yet clear to behold him. Over forty years had he worn it, from the time he 
received it in London from Queen Anne. He asked his son to kneel at liis 
couch, and, putting his withered hand across his brow, placed the feathery 
crown upon his head, and gave him the silver-mounted tomahawk — symbols 
of power to rule and power to execute. Then, looking up to the heavens, he 
said, as if in despair for his race, ' The hills are our pillows, and the broad 
plains to the west our hunting-grounds ; our brothers are called into the 
bright wigwam of the Everlasting, and our bones lie upon the fields of many 
battles ; but the wisdom of the dead is given to the living,' " 

On the east bank of the Hudson, directly east of this historic island, is the 
residence of Frederick E. Church, artist. It commands a wide view to the 
Berksliire Hills eastward, and westward to the Catskills. 

Tlie hill above Rodger's Island, on the east bank, is known as Mt. Merino. 



J 



FROM HUDSON TO ALBANY. 

Hudson, (115 miles from New York ; population 10,000), was founded in 
the year 1784, by thirty persons from Providence, R. I. The city is situated 
on a sloping promontory, bounded by the North and South Bays. Its main 
streets, Warren, Union and Allen, run east and west a little more than a 
mile in length, crossed by Front street, First, Second, Third, etc. Main street 
reaches from Promenade Park to Prospect Hill. The Park is on the bluff 
just above the steamboat landing ; we believe this city is the only one on 
the Hudson that has a Promenade ground over-looking the river. It com- 
mands a fine view of the Catskill Mountains, Mount Merino, and miles of 
the river scenery. The city has always enjoyed the reputation of hospital- 
ity. It is the western terminus of the Hudson and Chatham Division of the 
Boston and Albany Railroad, which passes through Claverack, with its 
flourishing "Hudson River Institute," and Philmont with its fine water 
power, to Chatham, where connections are made with the Harlem Extension 
for Lebanon Springs, and Boston and Albany Railroad for Pittsfield. Passen- 
gers can reach either place the same evening, or remain over night and take 
a fresh start in the morning. The "Worth House," about three blocks from 
the landing or depot, is the best hotel in the city. It has a fine location on 
Warren street, and has long been known as one of the very pleasantest and 
best conducted on the Hudson. Its name is associated with the brave General 
Worth of the IMexican War, whose fine monument stands in front of the 
Fifth Avenue Hotel, in New York. The Worth House is built on the site 
of the old building where the General was born. 

Columbia White Sulphur Springs.— Only four miles from the city of Hud- 
son, are the well-known Columbia White Sulphur Springs, with curative rep- 
utation second to none in the United States. 

Although but little known prior to the year 1855, at which time the late 
Charles B. Nash, father of the present proprietor, purchased them and opened 
a house for the reception of visitors, the last twenty years have given them a 
national reputation, and persons now come from every part of the country, 
recognizing the fact " that the waters of Pharpa and Abnah " are not as good 
as the M^aters of Columbia. Their medicinal qualities are testified to by scores 
of physicians, and hundreds who have been benefitted and cured. 

The hotel has a fine location, in the midst of a woodland many acres in ex- 
tent, and we know of no finer jDlace for those requiring repose and seeking re- 
lief from the excitement of business. It is peculiarly and emphatically a place 
of rest. The atmosphere is pure and bracing, and the county of Columbia is 

70 



proverbially healthful. There is, moreover, a quiet companionship about these 
old trees, for " To him who, in the love of nature, holds communion with their 
visible forms, they speak a various language," a sort of dialect that never 
wearies you ; a gentle whispering, punctuated with the song of birds. 

Years ago, when we were students at Claverack, we used to wander over 
the hills to the Springs, and it seemed almost like returning home when w^e 
recently drove through the pleasant grounds. We cannot speak of it with too 
much enthusiasm, and we are fully satisfied tliat our warmest praise will be 
endorsed and applauded by every visitor and guest. 

The drives are charming in every direction. The road from Hudson is in 
sight of the river almost the entire distance, and the drives through Claverack 




COLUMBIA SPRINGS HOUSE,— M. P. NASH, Proprietob. 

md Kinderhook are unrivaled. The Lebanon Springs are of easy access by 
rail ; also the Catskill Mountains by boat or cars to Catskill. Persons en route 
'or Saratoga and the North, by stopping off one train, would find a pleasant 
irive and a kindly reception at the hands of Mr. M. P. Nash. Some time ago 
ive saw an article clipped from the New York Evangelist, and we say with 
them, " Hail Columbia ! " 

Athens is directly opposite Hudson. An old Mohegan village, known as 
Potick, was located west of Athens. 

After leaving Hudson we pass Stockport on the east side, and Coxsackie on 
the west (name derived from Kaak-aki, which is said to have signified a place 

71 



of geese). There may be some phonetic relation between this word and the 
English word "quack." We pass Stuyvesant, on the east bank, a station on 
the Hudson River Railroad, where persons take stage to the pleasant village 
of Kinderhook, where Martin Van Buren had a residence. The name Kin- 
derhook is said to have had its origin from a point on the Hudson prolific of 
children ; and as the children were always out of doors to see the old Dutch 
sloops, it was known as Kinder -hook, or "children's point." 

The villages of New Baltimore and Coeymans are on the west bank. 
Schodack Landing and Castleton on the east. 

Between New Baltimore and Coeymans, on the west side, is a rocky 
island, named by the Dutch Beeren Island, where the first white child of 
the Hudson was born. This was the site of the old castle of Rensselaerstein, 
already referred to. The boundaries of the four counties of Columbia, 
Rensselaer, Albany and Greene meet on this Island. 

Schodack, — The township of Schodack is one of the oldest and pleasant- 
est in the county of Rensselaer, and was the head-centre or capital of the 
Mahican tribe. It had its origin in the word Schoti, signifying fire ; and 
ack, place; or the place of the everburning council-fire of the Mahican 
tribe. Here King Aepgin, on the 8th of April, 1680, sold to Van Rensse- 
laer "all that tract of country on the west side of the Hudson, extending 
from Beeren Island up to Smack's Island, and in breadth two days' journey." 

The Mahican Tribe originally occupied all the east bank of the Hudson 
north of Roeliffe Jansen's Kill, near Germantown, to the head waters of 
the Hudson ; and, on the west bank, from Cohoes to Catskill. The town 
of Schodack was central, and a signal displayed from the hills near Castle- 
ton could be seen for thirty miles in every direction. After the Mahicans 
left the Hudson, they went to Westenhook, or Housatonic, to the hills 
south of Stockbridge ; and then, on invitation of the Oneidas, removed to 
Oneida County, in 1785, where they lived until 1821, when, with other 
Indians of New York, they purchased a tract of land near Fox river, 
Minnesota. 

Above the village of Castleton will be seen, on a beautiful point embowered 
in trees, the delightful residence of Maurice A. Scott, and above the village 
the residence of Samuel Campbell. The Mourdener's kill fiows into the Hud- 
son north of Mr. Campbell's residence. A short distance up the stream is the 
postal card manufactory, and a narrow gauge railroad connects this factory 
with the Hudson River Railroad, for transporting the cards. The old stone 
house, on an island, east of the steamer's route, now known as Miller's Farm, 
was built by the Staats family, one of the earliest settlers on the river. Here 



and there the islands open Up pleasant views, but the islands are too low to be 
picturesque. Opposite the old stone house, the point on the west bank is known 
as Parda Hook, where it is said a horse was once drowned in a horse-race on 
the ice, and hence the name Parda, for the old Hollanders along the Hudson 
seem to have had a musical ear, and delighted in accumulating syllables. (The 
word pard is used in Spenser for spotted horse, and still survives in the word 
leopard.) 

The Casleton Bar or " overslaugh," as it was known by the river pilots, im- 
peded for years navigation in low water. A. Van Santvoord, Esq., President 
of the Hudson River Day Line, and other prominent citizens along the Hud- 
son, brought the subject before the State Legislature, and work was com- 
menced in 1863. In 1868 the United States Government very properly (as 
their jurisdiction extends over tide-water), assumed the work of completing 
the dykes, and they now stretch for miles along the banks and islands of the 
upper Hudson. 

The Norman's Kill flows into the Hudson a few miles above, on the west 
side. It was called by the Indians the Tawasentha, or •' place of many dead." 
The large building is the Convent of the Sacred Heart. 

Van Rensselaer Place, on the cast bank, is one of our relics of antiquity. 
The port holes on either side of the door facing the river show that it was 
built in troublesome times. This is the oldest of the Van Rensselaer Manor 
Houses, built in 1640 or thereabouts. 

Greenbush is on the east side of the river, opposite Albany, and connected 
with it by two railroad bridges and a carriage bridge. The word is a transla- 
tion of the old Dutch, and was probably a "green-bushed" place in early 
days. Now pleasant residences and villas look out upon the river from the 
near bank and the distant hillsides. The village is head-centre for the em- 
ployees on the great railroad lines which intersect at this point. During the 
French War, in 1755, Greenbush was a military rendezvous, and in 1812 the 
United States Government established extensive barracks, whence troops were 
forwarded to Canada. 

Albany (144 miles from New York, population 80,000). — Its site was called 
by the Indians, Shaunaugh ta-da, or the Pine Plains, a name which we still 
see in Schenectady. It was next known by the early Dutch settlers as 
"Beverwyck," " William Stadt," and " New Orange." The seat of the State 
Government was transferred from New York to Albany in 1798. In 1714, 
when 100 years old, it had a population of 3,000, one-sixth of whom were 
slaves. In 1786, it increased to about 10,000. In 1676, the city comprised 
within the limits of Pearl, Beaver and Steuben streets, was surrounded by 



wooden walls, with six gates. They were 13 feet high, made of timber a foot 
square. It is said that a portion of these walls were remaining in 1812. ' The 
first railroad in the State, and the second in the United States, was oi)ened 
from Albany to Schenectady in 1831. The pictures of these old coaches are 
very amusing, and the rate of speed M^as only a slight improvement on a well- 
organized stage line. From an old book in the State Library we condense the 
following description, presenting quite a contrast to the city of to-day: 
"Albany lay stretched along the banks of the Hudson, on one very wide and 
long street, parallel to the Hudson. The space between the street and the 
river-bank was occupied by gardens. A small but steep hill rose above the 
centre of the town, on which stood a fort. The wide street leading to the fort 
(now State street) had a Market-Place, Guard-House, Town Hall, and an Eng- 
lish and Dutch Church, in the centre." 

Tourists and others will be amply repaid in visiting the new Capital build- 
ing, at the head of State street. It is open from nine in the morning until six 
in the evening. When completed it will be larger than the Capitol at Wash- 
ington, and will probably cost more than any structure on the American con- 
tinent. The staircases, the grand corridors, the Hall of Representatives, and 
the Court of Appeals room (now used for the Senate Chamber) attest the wealth 
and greatness of the Empire State. The traveler up State street will note the 
beautiful and commanding spire of " St. Paul." The Cathedral is also a grand 
structure. The population of Albany is now about 80,000, and its growth is 
due to three causes : First, the capital was removed from New York to Albany 
in 1798. Then followed two great enterprises, ridiculed at the time by every one 
as the Fulton Folly and Clinton's Ditch — in other words, steam navigation. 
1807, and the Erie Canal, 1825. Its name, as we said before, was given in hon- 
or of the Duke of Albany, although it is still claimed by some of the oldest in- 
habitants that, in the golden age of those far-off times, when the good oldi 
burghers used to ask for the welfare of their neighbors, the answer was al- 
ways, " All bonnie," and hence the name of the hill-crowned city. 

And now, while waiting to " throw out the plank," which puts a period to 
our Hudson River Division, we feel like congratulating ourselves that thesj 
various goblins which once infested the river have become civilized, that tliQ 
winds and tides have been conquered, and that the nine-day voyage of Hen- 
drich Hudson and the " Half Moon" has been reduced to the nine-hour system 
of the " Albany " and the " Vibbard." 

Those who have traveled over Europe will certainly appreciate the quiet lux- 
ury of an American steamer ; and this first introduction to American scener}* 
will always charm the tourist from other lands. No single day's journey ic 

74 



ny land or on any stream can present such variety, interest, and beauty, aS 
ae trip of one hundred and forty-four miles from New York to Albany, 
'he Hudson is indeed a goodly volume, with its broad covers of green lying 
pen on either side ; and it might in truth be called a condensed history, 
or there is no place in our country where poetry and romance are so 
brangely blended with the heroic and the historic, — no river where the 
/aves of different civilizations have left so many waifs upon the banks. It 
5 classic ground, from the " wilderness to the sea," and will always be 

THE poets' corner OF OUR COUNTRY *, 

he home of Irving, Willis, and Morris, — of Fulton, Morse, and Field, — of 
'ole, Audubon, and Church, — and scores besides, whose names are house- 
jiold words. 



FROM WALLACE BRUCE' S POEM, "A WANDERER. 



"The rivers of story and song. 

The Danube, the Elbe, and the Rhine, 
Entrance for a day ; but I long 

For the dear old Hudson of mine. 
The Hudson, where memories throng ; 

Where love's fondest tendrils entwine, 

Of beauty, the shrine." 

Taken frmn his new volume of Poems, entitled " From the Hudson 

to the Yoseinite.'''' 

PUBLISHED BY AMERICAN NEWS CO., New York. 

TaHefuUy Illusirated. PHce 50 cents. 
Sold at the News Stands of the " Albany'" and " Vihhard.'''' 



75 



DELAWARE a HUDSOH CANAL COMPAKY'S E. R 



Hi-^^i^E O-EOIE^G-E. 




PROSPECT MOUNTAIN AND LAKE GEORGE. 



At Fort Ticonderoga, the Champlain steamers connect with the D. & H. C. Go's R. Tl. for th( 
trip through Lake George. Open excursion cars, built expres.sly for this trip, are here talven up th( 
mountain to Baldwin, (foot of the Lake), thence ma steamer tiirorgh the entire length of the Lake- 
thirty-six miles— to Caldwell, where the train is again taken, making connections at Trov and Albanj 
for New York via night lines of Steamers and Hudson River R. R. 

Excursion tickets are issued from Saratoga, for the round trip, at greatly reduced rates during 
the season of pleasure travel. For further information address 

D. M. KENDRICK, General Passenger Agent, 



^^LB^^isr^z^, 3sr. 



DELAWARE AND HUDSON CANAL COMPANY. 

Rensselaer and Saratoga Department. — The Rensselaer & Saratoga 
Railroad might be said to stand square and solid on a tripod, Albany repre- 
senting one foot, Troy another, and Schenectady the third. Tlie travelers up 
the Hudson, via Day Boat, Night Boat, or the "West Shore Railroad, will take 
fcheir departure for Saratoga from Albany. Most of the through express 
brains on the Hudson River Railroad go via Troy. The passengers from 
Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse, Utica, and the west, find their nearest route via 
Schenectady. To carry the figure still further, the three supports of the 
bripod all converge toward Saratoga, and there unite to support the main 
standard, with Montreal for a music rack. (If our book w^ere only a winter 
5uide, when Montreal makes herself happy in an ice palace, w^e would call the 
standard Jack's beanstalk, reaching upward to the delightful mansion of a 
^ood-natured giant.) 

The route from Albany passes along the west bank of the Hudson, through 
West Troy, to— 

I CoHOEs, a prosperous manufacturing city, which has grown up around one 
pf the finest water powers in the country. The name Cohoes is said to signify 
{'the island at the falls.'' This was the division line betw^een the Mahicans 
(ind the Mohawks. The view from the bridge, looking up and down the 
Mohaw^k, is beautiful, and when the water is in full force over the falls it 
'•esembles in its graceful curve and sweep a miniature Niagara. A short 
distance from Cohoes the train sometimes unites with the Hudson River line 
from the east side of the river, and, before proceeding further, we will take a 
.'ook at the prosperous and enterj^rising city of — 

Troy. — To mark the locality of Troy it is necessary to get your bearings, 
.f you happen to be in Albany, you can say Troy is six miles north of Albany ; 
put, if you chance to be in Troy, it Avould be safe to say that Albany is six 
aiiles south of Troy. It is located at the head of tide-water, and is emphati- 
cally a live city. If you ask its history, it points to its great iron interests, and, 
like the Roman matron, says, "These are my jewels." It is located upon a 
(lat, at the foot of classically-named hills : Mount Ida and Mount Olympus. 
JTwo streams, the Poestenkill and the Wynant's Kill, approach the river 
jhrough narrow ravines, and furnish excellent water power. In the year 1786 
t was called Ferryhook. In 1787, Rensselaerwyck. In the fall of 1787 the 
Settlers began to use the name of Vanderheyden, named after the family who 
^wned a great part of the ground where the city now stands. January 9, 
[789, the freeholders of the tow-n met and gave it the name of Troy. The 

77 



DELAWARE AND HUDSON GANAL COMPANY'S R. R. 

THE MOST ATTRACTIVE ROUTE 



TROM THE 



White Mountains to New York 

BURLINQTON, LAKE CHAMPLAIN, 

LAKE QEORQE AND SARATOG-A 

No other route can offer the same attractions, for hy special arrangement all rail tickets 
reading ''via D. & H. C CO'.s R. R.," are accepted on Lake Champlain Steamers, anc 

vice versa. 



'3 

And the Noted Adirondack Resorts. 
THE ONLY LINE TO LAKE GEORGE, 

THE SWITZERLAND OF AMEItlCA. 

Close Connections made at TROY and ALBANY, with s/eafners for NEW YORK, and 
with N. Y. C. & H. K. K. 

See that your Tickets read via " this Route. 
C. F. YOUNG-, B. M. KENDRICK, 

General Manager, General Passenger Agent. 

HONESDALE, Pa. ALBANY, N. ¥. 



Hudson, the Erie and Clianiplain Canals, have contributed to its growth. 
The city population is 50,000, but the surrounding cities and towns, which 
have sprung up around it, viz., Cohoes, Lansingburg, Waterford, etc., make 
it central to at least 70,000 people. The Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, the 
oldest engineering school in America, has a national reputation. 

The best Hotel is the Troy House, corner First and River streets. It is cen- 
trally located, among the leading mercantile interests and public buildings of 
the city, within five minutes' xralk from the Union Railroad Depot, and 
within two minutes' walk of the landing of the elegant steamboats "Sara- 
toga" and "City of Troy." 



I 




TROY HOUSE. 
JANVRIN & GILLIS, PROPRIETORS. 

Messrs. Janvrin & Gillis have had long experience, and the Troy House has 
never before been under such good management or in such thorough repair. 
Mr. Janvrin has been connected for many j'ears w^ith the ' ' United States 
Hotel,"' of Saratoga, and the " Albemarle," of New York, and Mr. Gillis with 
the "United States," of Saratoga. 

Going north from Troy, the tourist passes through Green Island, noted for 
its railroad and machine thops ; through Mechanicville, which lies partly in 
the township of Stillwater, with its historic record of ^Bemis Heights ; to — 

Round Lake, a pleasant resort, favorably located, eighteen miles north of 

79 



Troy and twelve miles south of Saratoga Springs. On the east, a beautifu 
sheet of water, three miles in circumference, called by the Indians Ta-nen- 
daho-wa, which, interpreted, signifies Round Lake. Near this, and con- 
nected with it by a narrow, winding channel, is another beautiful sheet of 
water, called Crystal Lake. 

As Round Lake has had such rapid growth, we think some details wnll be of 
interest to the reader, and we call attention to these substantial evidences of 
growth. The elegant iron depot cost $8,000, and is one of the best on the 
road. Although the grounds sometimes look like fairy land, they have 
evidences of entertaining human beings in .the existence of a post-office, a 
grocery and provision store, a bakery, meat, fish, milk, and vegetable markets, 
also, telegraph and express offices. Private boarding and lodging may be 
obtained in cottages and tents at very reasonable rates. We have seen it 
stated that a cottage, including a lot, can be built at Round Lake, accommo- 
dating several persons, for $500, and pleasant cottages can be rented for $40. 

The drives in the vicinity are most delightful to Saratoga Lake, to the Hud- 
son River, to the historic battle-fields of Bemis Heights and Stillwater. The 
air at Round Lake is pure and invigorating, and the grounds are abundantly 
supplied with pure, cool water from living springs upon the high lands of the 
Association. 
Ballston Spa, (thirty-one miles from Albany, population 4,000), the county 
I seat of Saratoga, xx)ssesses many attractions as a quiet summer resort. Here 
I are several well known mineral springs, with chemical properties similar to 
the springs of Saratoga. Over ninety years ago Benjamin Douglas, father of 
Hon. Stephen A. Douglas, built a log house, near the "Old Spring," for the 
accommodation of invalids and travelers. The pleasantest hotel in Ballston 
is the Sans Souci. It was opened in 1804, and, at that time, was the largest 
and best appointed hotel in the country. If Ballston had kept up in the great 
race and rage for improvement, our country might have had two Saratogas, 
provided twins of such magnitude were possible. There is a fine avenue be- 
tween the two villages, which m^kes a popular driveway, running, as it does, 
near the Geyser and Spouting Spring. 

I Saratoga Springs, (thirty -eight miles north of Albany, one hundred and 
] eighty-two miles from New York.) Population about 10,000. We presume 
no one will dispute us, when we say that this is the greatest w^atering place of 
the continent, or of the world. Its development has been wonderful, and 
puts, as it were, in large italics, the prosperity of America. Its fifty years' 
, growth is as wonderful as the growth of New York, Chicago, or San Fran- 
1 Cisco. The wooden inns and hotels of 1830, which then seemed rather palatial 

81 




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to the rural people of Saratoga, would get lost even in the parlors of the 
mammoth hotels which now line the main street of Saratoga. Chief among 
these hotels, we mention the — 

"United States," the views of which here given include the frontage 
upon two streets and the interior court. We see it, as we approach the 
station, with its long line of cottages on one side, and its long wing on the 
other, reaching almost to the railroad track, as if standing with open arms 
to welcome the tourist and traveler. 

This magnificent structure was completed in June, 1874. It constitutes 
one continuous line of buildings, six stories high, over fifteen hundred feet 
in length, containing nine hundred and seventeen rooms for guests, and is 
the largest hotel in the world. The architectural appearance is exceedingly- 
elegant and beautiful. It is Norman in style, and its Mansard roof is em- 
bellished with pediments, gables, dormer windows and crestings, and three 
large pavilions. 

The building covers and encloses seven acres of ground in the form of 
an irregular pentagon, having a frontage of two hundred and thirty-two 
feet on Broadway, six hundred and fifty-six feet on Division street, with 
"Cottage Wing" on the south side of the plaza, extending west from the 
main front for five hundred and sixty-six feet. This wing is one of the 
most desirable features of this admirably arranged house, as it affords fami, 
lies, and other parties, the same quiet and seclusion which a private cot- 
tage would afford, togetlier with the attention and convenience of a first-class 
hotel. The rooms of this wing are arranged in suites of one to seven bedrooms, 
with parlor and bath-room in each suite. Private table is afforded, if desired, 
and the seclusion and freedom of a private villa may be enjoyed here, to be 
varied, at will, by the gayer life of the hotel and watering place. 

The main front and entrance is on Broadway, in which is the elegant 
drawing-room, superbly furnished with Axminster carpets, carved walnut 
and marble furniture, frescoed ceilings, elegant lace curtains and costly 
chandeliers and mirrors. The room is rich and tasteful in its entire ar- 
rangements. Across the hall is the ladies' parlor, furnished with exquisite 
taste ; and beyond, at the corner of tlie Broadway and Division street 
fronts, are the gentlemen's reading-rooms and the business offices of the 
hotel. To the west of the office, in the Division street wing, is the dining- 
hall, fifty-two by one hundred and twelve feet, with twenty and one-half 
feet ceiling. The grand ball-room, one hundred and twelve by fifty-three 
feet, with ceilings twenty-six feet high, is on the second floor of the Di- 
vision street wing, and is handsomely decorated. 

83 




THE ADELPHI. 



-=^^o^^==- 



SARATOGA SPRINGS, H. Y. 



•^~^ie«®- 



Oentrally located between tl^e united ^tates and tr^and 

dnion Motels. 

Qnlaraed and Kewly Hurnlsi^ed. 



DPEN FROM MAY iBt TD NDYEMBER 1st. 



WILLIAM H. McCaffrey, Proprietor. 



In brief, this palatial structure surpasses in grandeur and magnitude, any 
hotel in Saratoga. It was not built in pieces and pasted together in scraps, 
but reared at once in its entirety — springing up like Aladdin's Palace, sym- 
metrical and beautiful. In brief, this hotel is appropriately named, for it is a 
fit type of the growth of our country, and speaks well for a centennial of 
prosperity. 

The Hon. James M. Marvin, who is well-known to all old frequenters of 
Saratoga, has the general control of the whole interest, while Messrs. Tomp- 
kins, Perry, Gage and Janvrin, the proprietors and managers, have the en- 
tire supervision of the house. Their experience in our metropolitan hotels 
specially fits them for this important department, and guests can rely upon 
having everything provided that will conduce to their comfort and happiness. 

The Adelphi, built in 1877 ; capable of accommodating 175 guests ; is a 
model of arrangement and good management. It is centrally located be- 
tween the Grand Union and the United States. It is in the truest sense a 
favorite home for the tourist or man of business. Its bright and cheerful 
piazzas, three stories high, present, as it were, a "box orchestra," from which 
the visiter looks down upon the street with its gay equipages, the broad side- 
walk, and the extended view down Phila street, which fronts the Adelphi. 
The hotel has been newly enlarged and furnished. The proprietor, Mr. Wil- 
liam H. McCaffrey, has had long experience, and the visitor who stops at 
the pleasant Adelphi will do so again and again, so long as he visits Saratoga. 

The American.— We are glad to see tlie cheerful face of this Hotel lighted 
up with smiles and prosperity. It has one of the finest locations in Saratoga, 
and enters upon its fourth successful season, under tlie management of Messrs. 
Farnham & Bush. We regret that we have not a cut of " The American " for 
the present issue, but we wish to italicise our words when we say, that we 
most heartily commend this cheerful and cozy Hotel. It can accommodate 250 
guests. The rooms are entirely refurnished, and guests will be sure of com- 
fort, good attention, a fine table, and every convenience of a first-class house. 
One thing is sure, there is no better table in Saratoga, and every one who goes 
to the American returns again and again. Mr. Farnham was for several years* 
manager of the largest and best hotel at Bermuda, and, in his earlier career, 
was associated Mith the Messrs. Barrens, proprietors of the Twin Mountain 
and Crawford House, in the White Mountains. 

Strong's Remedial Institute is the largest and best Institute in Saratoga, 
and one of the most complete and elegant in its appointments in this country. 
In character it is unique, being a happy combination of summer resort and 
"remedial institute." Its guests are genial, cultured people, and a large 

85 



r-^-'i'S/zJ:- 



18S4- 




HE IMERIC/IN. 

FOURTH SEASON OF THE PRESENT MANAGEMENT. 

HIS Favorite and well established Hotel will be open 
for the season of 1884 from June to October. 

It is most centrally located, being in the block be- 
tween the United States and Grand Union Hotels, and 
is within three minutes' walk of the Congress Park and 
the Hathorn, Congress and several other of the most famous 
and popular Springs. 

The Piazza is the most prominent of any in Saratoga, and com- 
mands a view for several blocks north and south on Broadway. 
The house has been generally renovated the past winter, and 
many improvements made. 

Steam heat insures comfort to its guests on damp and chilly 
mornings and evenings. 

The table will maintain its usual high standard, and it will be 
the aim of the proprietors to have it second to none in Saratoga. 
One notable feature in the dining room will be the adoption 
of white men waiters. 

For terms and rooms apply to 

Farnham & Bush, 

IPI^o:E=:E^IETOI2,s. 



number of tliem, particularly in the season, do not seek treatment, but come 
only for rest and recreation. A casual observer would never suspect its 
medical character. The management is such that the hotel and remedial 
interests in no way conflict. Abundant facilities for amusement are afforded : 
frequent parlor entertainments of varied character, organ, pianos, fine croquet 
ground, gymnasium, etc. 

The Institute is charmingly located, on Circular street, the finest avenue in 
Saratoga, within three to five minutes' easy walk of the large hotels, principal 




I DRS. strong's institute, SARATOQ/v 

, {Fo7' further wforinalioii see imrje riear dose of hook. 

\ springs. Congress Spring Park, and otlier sources of attraction : retired enougli 
i for those enjoying quiet, yet within very easy access of tlio centres of gayety 
and excitement. It has the table appointments and eleganve of a first-class 
j hotel. The bath department compares favoralily with the best metropolitan 
' establishments, and offers the only opportunity in Saratoga for obtaining 
{ Turkish, Russian, Roman, and Electro-thermal baths. 



8^ 



The pati'ons of the Institute are largely professional men. From a long list 
of prominent persons we select the following : Rev. Tlieo. L. Cuyler, D.D. 
(Brooklyn); Rev. Chas. F. Deems, D.D. (N. Y.) ; Pi-es. Roswell D. Hitchcock 
(Union Theological Seminary) ; Ex-Govs. H. H. Wells (Washington), J. B. 
Page (Vermont) ; Rev. C. C. ("Chaplain") McCabe, D.D. (N. Y.) ; Rev. D. K. 
Pierce, D.D. {Zion's Herald): Hon. F. C. Sessions (Columbus, O.); Bishops 
Simpson, Foster, Peok, Robertson ; Hon. J. A. Scranton (Scranton, Pa.) ; Pres. 
H, A. Buttz (DreM^ Theological Seminary) ; Hon, A. B. Hepburn (Supt. Insu- 
rance, N. Y.); Miss Frances E. Willard ; T. Sterry Hunt, LL.D. (Montreal); 
Medical Profs. Armon (Brooklyn), Ross (Chicago), Kjiapp (N. Y.) ; Rev. John 
Potts, D.D. (Montreal); Jas. McCreery (N. Y.) ; Rev. Alfred Nevin, D.D., 
LL.D. (Philadelphia). 

The proprietors are ' ' regular " physicians, graduates of the Medical Depart- 
ment of the University of the City of New York, and the Institute is endorsed 
and well patronized by the medical profession. It is not simply a water-cure, 
as many suppose ; on the contrary, it is most completely fitted up with 
modern scientific remedial appliances, and, while hydrotherapy occupies a 
prominent place, the doctors utilize whatever experience has proven valuable, 
their object being to cure or relieve patients, and not to demonstrate any 
particular dogma. 

For a complete list of appliances, and full information concerning the In- 
stitute, we must refer the reader to Drs. Strong's circular, which may be ob- 
tained upon application. 

To those seeking either health or a cheerful home, with the comforts of a 
hotel, we most heartily commend Drs. Strong's Institute. 

The walks in and about Saratoga are very pleasant. The streets are wide 
and well shaded, and afford, during the summer season, a fine opportunity for 
studying human nature and character of every type. The Indian encamp- 
ment, with its archery, hobby-horses, whirligigs, etc., affords an untiring 
source of amusement to the children. The park, the elegant cafe, the hotel 
verandas, with their excellent music, the beautiful hotel parks, the springs — 
all furnisli a bill of pleasure-fare, to be taken and digested at one's leisure. 

Saratoga Lake, seven or eight miles long by two miles wide, is a beauti- 
ful sheet of water, about four miles from Saratoga. This affords a pleasant 
drive ; and Moon's Lake House is widely known for bass and pickerel, fresh 
from the lake. 

The Mount McGregor Railroad is one of the pleasantest "day trips'' to 
be made from Saratoga. Trains leave Saratoga three or four times during the 
day, and the view from the road and the mountain is very fine. An art 



gallery has been established on this mountain, and a collection of pictures by- 
American artists is on exhibition. 

The Springs. — The most prominent springs in and about Saratoga, are the 
Congress, the Geyser, the Hathorn, the Vichy, High Rock, and Excelsior. 
The Geyser is a fine curiosity. The High Rock is one of the few springs in 
the world that built its own curb stone. But the best-known, and justly so, 
of all these famed remedial waters, is the Congress, which was discovered in 
1792. It is a cathartic and alterative water, highly carbonated, of agreeable 
taste. Its medicinal effects have been tested for almost one hundred years. 
Other springs have since been discovered, but this one has preserved its youth, 
and is to-day the favorite child of the " bubbling family." It is at once the 
gentlest and most effective of the Saratoga waters. Experience has taught 
many to use with care harsh and rasping waters. The so-called strong 
waters have been well advertised, but experience is the best test. We wish, 
also, to emphasize the fact that Congress Water is never sold on draught. Last 
winter we were in the pleasant city of Savannah, Ga., and it took us a long 
time to convince one of the leading druggists of that city that his Congress 
Water on draught was not from Saratoga, but a fraudulent compound. It is 
sold only in bottles, and safely shipped to all parts of the country. " Nature," 
a prominent French physician says, " is better than the laboratory." 

Congress Spring Park is a delightful pleasure-ground. In fact, we know 
of no park of equal size in our country which equals it for landscape-garden- 
ing effect or in elegance of architectural and artistic ornaments. We never 
saw it look better than this present season. It makes a secure and delightful 
retreat. It is said that almost $200,000 have been spent since 1874 in beautify- 
ing and improving the grounds. The changes effected consist, in part, of 
raising the grade of the low grounds from two to seven feet ; an entire new 
system of drainage, of which the elegant new reservoir and miniature lake 
form a part ; new and improved walks ; the introduction of electric lights 
throughout the grounds, rendering them available as a place of evening re- 
sort ; new buildings at the springs, with a grand entrance and arbor-like col- 
onnades, and with improved methods of serving the waters, greatly enlianc- 
ing the comfort of visitors ; a cafe where refreshments are served at popular 
prices ; a rustic deer-shelter and deer-park ; a music pavilion of unique and 
elegant design ; abundance of seats, shade, and objects of interest — altogether 
making the park a most attractive place, affording every comfort and con- 
venience for visitors and excursionists, with perfect order and security under 
efficient police supervision. The vocal and instrumental music will be, as 
usual, of the finest. Downing's military band will be one of the attractions. 



Tlio liroWiM-Us will ho cowAuclvd h\ hrlwilK-r, wlio li;ul iUc iuaMai;(MUiMj( oi 
(ho (lisplay of iUo WrookUn HriiliAC 

Tnit. in tln> midst of this thn>l»l)iiii;-, ^mv :>'>*• (l«'liL;l»ttul Sar:il(\<;:i. \vo must 
\\o\ t\>ri;vt thai it was hoiv tho lathors uf tho Ivcpiiblio aohiovod ono o( thoir 
most (lot'isivo victories. Tho hattlo was l\)iight in tho town of Stillwatvr, at 
InMnis lhM.i;lits. two nnil a half niilos from tho Iliulson. Tho dofoat of St. 
\.CiX< V and thi> trinniph of Stark at IVnnington lilltMl tho Aniorioan army with 
hoi>o. l?nri;oyno's army advanood SoptomluM- IDth. 1777. Tho hattlo was 
sharply oontostod. At ni.uUt tho Amorioans rotirt^l into thoir i-amp, and tht 
British luld (ho lit^ld. Kroin Soptomhor 'JOth to OotohiM- 7th lh(> ai inios lookod U 
oaohothor in tht^ faot\ vAch sido satisl\t>d from tho lirst day's strui;j;lo thai 
thoir oppononts wcro worthy formtMi. Tlu' AiiuMirans had lolakon TioondtM- 
oi;a and l,ak(^ (o^>r,<;-o. nuri;oynt> had no plaot> to nMroat and tho lint^s w (M't> 
slowly but suroly olosini;- in around him. Oitohor 7lh Hur^oyn*' i'ommono(Hl 
tho hattlt\ but in half an hoiu- his lino was brokon. llo attompto«l to rally his 
troops in porson. but tlu\v ooidd not stand bofort* tlu» impotuous oharijjt* of tho 
AnnM-ioans. llo was oomi>olUnl to ordtu" a full rotrt>at, and foil baok on tho 
luM!;hts abovo Sohnylorvilhv Tho Amorioans surroundtMl him, and ho surron- 
don>d. It w a-i a d(>oisivi> viotDry. and oIuhmhhI tho frionds o\' friH>dom, not 
oidy in Ann rioa, but in tho Kni;lish lloust^ of CommcMis. 

In Nathani(>l l>artlott Sylvostor's book (Mil it U>d "Historical Skotoluvs of 
N(M-thtM-n Now Yo'k and tb»> Adironihu'k \ViUhM-nt>ss." tluMtuirist will find « 
lar-;*' and w»>ll di^ostcd mass of information r«'Iativo t(» Saratoga and tho Adi 
n)iulaok WiUlornoss, Mr. Sylvostor has anothor bi>«Wv now on tho pn>ss rolatinj; 
1»» tho " liOi;onds of Saratoiia." Tho writor, having- soon somt» of tho advant-o 
shoots, hoartily oon\monds it to tho visitor. Fron\ th(> 'JlUl (Muiptor of tho tirst 
montiontni book, wo loarn that tho oarliost dato in whioh tho won! Sarato.ua 
app«>ars in histi>ry is U)S4. and was thtMi tlu> namo of an old hnntin>; .ground on 
both sidos t>f tho Ihulson. Its intorprotations havo b(>on various. Sonio say 
*-Tlu^ llillsido CAumtry iA' thr C^n^at Rivor;" oHums. th<> plaoo of swift watt>i"S. 
whilo M«>r<;an. in his " l,oa,i;no of tht> Inxpiois," says tlu> signitioat ion of Sani- 
to-a is lost. Hut it has ooourn^l t«> tho writor that tho old root of tho won! is 
"braokish."or "bitttM- ;" whii-h appoars iji tho Fui^lish, "sour;" in tlu>8wodish. 
"sAr." ami in (u>rman. -'sauor ;" luMn.o kindn>d with Sara, or salt or braokish 
wat(>r, Tlu' word "dapi'* sii;nitit\s wat(M-and isstvn in Saoandaga. Ononda.ua 
i^i-.. and Saradoj;a would naturally booomt^ Saratoga. It isalsoa singular ooini 
oidtMu-othat tho Sahara dosortslundd havo in it vso uuioh of tho old Indian word. 
Our Wi>rd sorrol is also kindrod. and porhapss(>mo otyniologist might go furthor 
and make it Sorroinloija, as a n>snlt of in.lisoroot drinking from various spring-a. 

i)0 



CONC.RI^SS SI'RIN(; 

THE STANDARD MINERAL WATER 

(AiJiAin i< , Ai/i i:i{A'i IV i:. 

A s|KM-ifi<- lor HisoiMlrrs of (lie S( <»iii:m'Ii, IJv<'r :iimI liidiMys, 
I'A'/A'.tUil, iVIiilai-hi, iiiMl all iinpiirif i<'H ^^i' Mic; Itlood. 



So <,iivi;ibl«; .1 n;iriM: lias this fairioiis Mineral Water, that llic inana^f rs of iiif«:ri(;r 
tiiincral springs, tlcsiroiis of iiiiilaliii^ ihc nalural purity of llu; \ioli\r.i\ water 
of (^on^ress Spring, irjjoct a pow(-rfuI acifl in^lhcir l^otilcd waU:r to i)rcscrvc the 
criKic ingredients in solutifjn- being so heavily laden with 

I.I Ml-: AM> IKON i)i<;rosiT. 

Willi su( li < onlrivanees, bogus leslinujnials and do< lored analysis eartls, tiny 
seek to rival the pure rrif^dieinal waters of (Jorigrf.-ss Sj^ring. 



''I'* I II! regular season visitors to Saratoga fully understand tlifrse erude, harsh 
A waters, many of them after painful <:xperier)f es. /n prm,/ nj ihi\ failmr 
can produce a ^rcal many responsible nai/w;. liut the Saratoga visitors witlu^ut 
experience, and many who use the bottled waters, (often labeled as curatives for 
disorders which they positively aggravate), shouUI remember that (rude mineral 
waters pr(Kluce headache, a sense of burning and internal irritation, anM do irrep- 
arable injury to the digestive r>rgans and kidneys. 

CONfiRESS WATER, PURE, NATURAL AND RELIABLE. 

NONE GENUINE SOLD ON DRAUGHT. 
For Sale by Druggists, Grocers, Wine Merchants and Hotels. 



iiiliiiiil fiilfilf i liiillii 

FROM SARATOGA SPRIHGS 

TO 

LUZERNE, HADLEY, THURMAN, THE GLEN, RIVERSIDE, NORTH 
CREEK, and BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE, 

FORMING THE 

MOST DIRECT RAILROAD ROUTE 

TO THE 

VALLEY OF THE UPPER HUDSON 

AND THE WILDERNESS. 

LINE OP THREE NEW STEAMBOATS ON BLUE MOUNTAIN, EAGLE 
and UTOWANA LAKES. Also on RAQUETTE LAKE. 

A Route of PictureGque and Delightful Scenery. 



At Riverside Station, stages connect, running to SCHROON LAKE, 
CHESTER, POTTERSVILLE, and the NORTH WOODS. 

The Adirondack Stage Company, carrying United States Mails between North 
Creek and Blue Mountain Lake, run first-class four and six-horse Concord 
Coaches. 

Express trains leave Saratoga Springs in the morning and afternoon, making 
close connections with Night Boats from New York, and also the night train and 
and morning trains from New York. 

C. E. DURKEE, 

Superintendent. 



t^ROM SARATOGA TO THE ADIRONDACK^. 



ADIRONDACK RAILROAD TO NORTH CREEK — STAGES TO BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE. 



"THE ROUND TRIP." 



The Adirondack Railroad furnishes the pleasantest excursion to be made 
from Saratoga. The traveler passes through the romantic and picturesque 
valley of the Upper Hudson — through King's, South Corinth, Jessup's Land- 
ing to Hadley, the railroad station for Luzerne, a charming village at the 
junction of the Hudson and the Sacandaga. " Rockwell's Hotel " is known to 
all tlie sojourners of Saratoga as the place to secure a game dinner, a dish of 
trout, and a " taste " of the wilderness. 

Pursuing railroad trip, we pass through Stony Creek to Thurman, thirty-six 
miles from Saratoga Springs, at the junction of the Schroon River and the 
Hudson. The next stations are the Glen, forty-four miles, and Riverside, 
fifty miles from Saratoga. At Riverside persons leave the cars for Chester, 
Pottersville, Schroon Lake and Johnsburg. 

ScHROON Lake. — A stage ride of seven miles from Riverside brings the 
tourist to Schroon Lake. Thence we proceed by steamboat to Wells House 
Landing or Schroon Lake. The Wells House is a fine hotel ; Thomas Wells, 
proprietor. Returning from our detour, we continue our trip up the Adiron- 
dack Railroad to North Creek. 

At this point we find "Concord coaches " in waiting for Blue Mountain 
Lake— distance about thirty miles, through a beautiful romantic country. 
! The road has been thoroughly repaired, and the traveler will reach Blue Moun- 
tain Lake in time for supper. We had the good fortune to make this trip 
last August, and we hope to do so at least once a year for the next decade. 
Blue Mountain Lake is the threshold of the Adirondacks, and furnishes the 
; easiest way to get into the Lake District. 

The stage line has two or three relays of horses, makes frequent changes, 
and the "drivers" swing one along like the California drivers of the Yosemite. 
The Hotels at Blue Mountain Lake have been doubled. Holland's Blue Moun- 
] tjiin Lake House, Mr. John Holland, proprietor, has a beautiful site. Three or 
Ifour new cottages have recently been built, and we also understand that Mr. 
Holland has charge of the Forked Lake House, at Forked Lake Carry. 

The Prospect House accommodates 350 people, and the traveler will find first- 
class entertainment. There is a telegraph line between Blue Mountain Lake 
I and Saratoga Springs, and a new steamer on the Lake. These improvements 
jXnake everything complete for the pleasantest excursion in the United States. 

! 93 



The steamer route is as follows : In the morning about 9, if we remember 
correctly, we left the rustic Boat House in front of the hotel, sailed through 
Blue Mountain Lake and Utowana Lake to the outlet, a distance of seven 
miles. The "carry" at this point is two-thirds of a mile long, when we took 
a fairy-like steamer on Marion river. The river trip is four miles long to. 
Forked Lake, and we remember that it abounded with " water lilies," which 
were gathered by the heroic voyagers for the fair ones in their charge. 

Raquette Lake is one of the most charming of the " braided lakes." It has 
ninety miles of coast, and we understand that the name signifies " star-like.'" 
The name Utowana signifies " Lake of Plenty." 

AiTiving at "Forked Lake Carry," one-half mile brings us to Leavilt's, or 
Forked Lake. This is really the first " hotel in the woods," and here the trav- 
eler gets his.first real mountain bill of fare. In brief, we would like to have 
stayed there a month. From this point we took guide and rowboat to Kel- 
logg's, on Long Lake, a distance of about thirteen miles. This is a fine hotel, 
beautifully located and well kept. We understand that another hotel has 
been built at Long Lake Village. It is one of the points " in the woods" 
which is destined to grow. There is a short cut from this point over to the 
Tupper Lakes, which we can commend in every particular, and the tourist 
can either return to Long Lake and continue his route to the Saianacs, or go 
to the Saranacs direct from Lake Tupper. From the Saranacs there is a stage 
to Lake Placid. The best hotel at Lake Placid is on the hill, and commands a 
magnificent view of mountain and lake scenery. The name of the hotel has 
escaped us, but we have not forgotten the dinner, and we can simply say : 
Take the large hotel on the hill. 

From this point we went to Keene Flats, and stopped with " Beede." Some 
six or eight years ago we visited Beede, on our way from Plattsburgh to 
Mount Marcy, and we were delighted to see that he had outgrown the quiet 
farm house, and now finds himself proprietor of the best conducted hotel of 
the Adirondacks, accommodating 100 people. It is a charming and healthful 
spot, and only five miles from the " Lower Ausable Pond." These ponds, the 
" Lower" and " Upper," are unrivalled in beauty and grandeur. They lie at 
the foot of Mount Marcy, Haystack, the Gothics, and Mount Bartlett. 

S. R. Stoddard's "Guide to the Adirondacks" is a breezy, healthy book, and 
tells the traveler what he ought to know Mr. Walton Van I^oan has also pub- 
lished recently a complete " Bird's-eye View of the Adirondacks," which will be 
of great help to the tourist. He has accurately located every lake, and it seems 
there are 500 in this great natural " Park of New- York." The map is so com- 
plete and satisfactory that whoever sees it will agree that it is without a rival. 

94 



From this point we took Beede's stage for Elizabethtown and Westport, and 
so, via the Delaware & Hudson Canal Company, to Saratoga, made the round 
trip in about two weeks. 

We would suggest that the tourist from Beede's go over Mount Marcy to 
tlje Deserted Village, and then up through Indian Pass to Lake Placid, which 
would make a fine trip for four or five days. We have also made the trii> via 
Schroon Lake to the Deserted Village, and so over Mount Marcy to the 
Ausable Ponds and Beede's. 

In our article "From Saratoga North via Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad, " 
we refer to a trip which we made one summer from Plattsburgh. 

FROM SARATOGA TO LAKE GEORGE. 

The traveler will find trains and excursions to suit his convenience from 
Saratoga to the clear-mirrored lake. His route takes him through Gansevoort 
and Fort Edward, a flourishing village, to Glens Falls, one of the brightest, 
cleanest, and most enterprising villages in our State. Between Fort Edward 
and Glens Falls, alxmt one mile from the Fort Edward station, stood, until 
recently, the tree .where Jane McRea was murdered by the Indians during the 
Revolution. England had secured some of the Indian tribes as allies. Mr. 
Jones, an officer of the British army, had gained the affections of Miss McRea, 
a young lady of amiable character, daughter of a man attached to the royal 
cause. They were to be married. Mr. Jones was called to Canada and sent 
for his intended. Two Indians were to execute the trust. He promised the 
one who would bring her safely a keg of rum. They quarreled over their 
charge, and settled the trouble in the true Indian way when quarreling over 
their prisoner, by killing her. This outrage cast a just odium upon a warfare 
which couM ally itself with barbarians. 
! From Glens Falls the tourist proceeds. 

Not as of yore 
In coach and four, 

but over the well conducted Lake George Division, of the Rensselaer and 
^aratoga Railroad. To quote from " The Northern Tourist,"' a book which 
(reveals the enthusiasm of Mr. J. Bonsall for out-door-life, we find that we are 
now in the midst of a historic, as well as a romantic region : "At Half Way 
IBrook is the site of Fort Amherst, built by Col. Payson in 1759, known also as 
the Seven-Mile Post. Below Brown's Half Way House was a stockade fort, 
built by Major West, with two moats and a bastion. A mile beyond was an 
jintrenchment, built by Col. Foster in the same campaign. These were in 

! 95 

i 



tended to protect the passage of supplies from the incursions of the Indians 
and French. 

" July 30th, 1758, a train of fifty-four wagons, loaded with commissary stores, 
and guarded by a lieutenant and forty men, was leisurely proceeding to Lake 
George, accompanied by settlers, traders, women and children. They were 
attacked by LaCorne, commanding a body of four hundred French and Indi- 
ans, who pillaged and burnt the wagons, secured a hundred and ten scalps, 
and took eighty-four prisoners. 

" Just beyond the old toll-gate is the monument erected to the memory of 
Col. Ephraim Williams, by the graduates of Williams College, of which insti- 
tution he was the founder. Col. WiUiams was killed at the battle of Lake 
George, which occurred in 1755. Farther on is Bloody Pond, so named be- 
cause the waters of Rocky Brook, its outlet, were, at the above named time, 
crimsoned with the blood of the wounded and dead upon its banks. " 

Lake George, called by the French '' Lac St. Sacrament," was discovered by 
Father Jacques, who passed through it in 1646, on his way to the Iroquois Na- 
tion, by whom he was afterward tortured and burned. It is thirty-six miles 
long by three miles broad. Its elevation is two hundred and forty-three feet 
above the sea. The waters are of remarkable transparency ; romantic islands 
dot its surface, and elegant villas are erected upon its sliores. 

But not the unrivalled scenery, nor the pellucid water, nor the ceaseless 
play of light and shade upon the rock-bound islands and mountains, can for a 
moment equal the intense, absorbing interest excited by the historic legends 
of this memorable locality. They are interwoven with the early history of 
our country, and reach back to the time wiien truth vanishes into tra- 
dition. 

Fort William Henry and Fort Carillon, or Ticonderoga, situated at either 
end of the lake, were the salients respectively of the two most powerful na- 
tions upon the globe. France and England sent great armies, which crossed 
each other's track upon the ocean, the one entering the River St. Lawrence, 
the other finding the harbor of New York. Their respective colonies sent 
their thousands to swell the number of trained troops, while tribes of red 
men from the far south and the far north were marshalled by civilized genius 
to meet in hostile array upon these waters, around the walls of the forts, and 
at the base of the hills. 

In 1755, General William Johnson reached Lake St. Sacrament, to which he 
gave the name of Lake George, "not only in honor of his Majesty, but to as- 
sert his undoubted dominion here." 

The French, under Baron Dieskeu, passed up South Bay, the southern limit 



of Lake Champlain, and across the rocky spur of French Mountain, to the 
rear of the English army. Having ambuscaded Colonel Williams and King 
Hendricks, who, with one thousand troops and two hundred Indians, had 
been sent out to meet them, they made an attack upon the English entrench- 
ments near the lake shore ; but, after a sanguinary battle, they were defeated, 
Dieskeu being taken prisoner. The French, retreating, made a halt for rest 
and refreshment at Rocky Brook, where they were surprised by Captain Mc- 
Ginnis, of Fort Edward, who, with three hundred men, was hastening to the 
relief of Johnson. The French were completely routed, and fell back to 
their boats ; and this encounter, as before stated, gave to the head of the 
stream the name of Bloody Pond. 



I 




ROGERS' SLIDE, LAKE GEORGE. 

In March, 1789, an expedition of fifteen hundred men moved out to the 
capture of the Governor-General of Canada. They traveled sixty leagues 
with snow-shoes on their feet, their provisions on sledges drawn by dogs, 
sleeping in the snow upon a bear-skin, and breaking off the rude evening 
winds with a rail. On St. Patrick's night a man in front tried the strength 
of the ice with an axe, and the ice-spurs rang as the party advanced over 
the crystal highway, with scaling-ladders, to surprise the English fort. 
But the garrison were on the watch ; and the enemy could only burn what 
there was outside of the ramparts, consisting of three hundred bateaux, four 
sloops, a sawmill, the hospital, and two magazines, stocked with provisions. 

97 



On the 25th of July Lieut. Corbierre, near Sabbath Day Point, ambushed 
Col. John Parker, who, with three hundred Enghsh in twenty-two barges, 
had left Fort Wilham Henry the night before. Of these only twelve escaped. 

August 1st, Montcalm, with an army of seven thousand men, embarked 
in four hmidred boats, which covered the water from shore to shore, and 
swept majestically up the lake to the attack and capture of Fort William 
Henry. De Levi marched by land with the Canadians and a part of the 
Indians. 

The two armies united at Ganouski Bay, now Bolton, for breakfast, and 
then proceeded to Great Sandy Bay, about two miles from the fort, where 
they formed in order of battle. 

Col. Monroe was in command of the fort, with twenty-two hundred men. 
Gen. Webb was encamped with a formidable army at Fort Edward, but 
made no effort to support or relieve the troops at Lake George. The siege 
was pressed by Montcalm with great vigor, and on the sixth day Monroe 
capitulated. By its terms the garrison were permitted to march out of the 
works with their arms, and were to have had an escort. But they moved 
before the escort was ready, and had scarcely passed from the protection 
of their works when the Indians assaulted them, first with insults and 
menaces, but soon with the tomahawk and scalping-knife. Before this san- 
guinary drama was ended, some thirty-six men, women and children were 
killed by the ruthless savages. Their remains w^ere exhumed a few years ago, 
while digging an excavation near the house of Dr. Cromwell. 

"In 1757. Gen. Abercrombie and Lord Howe were encamped on the shore 
of the lake with thirteen thousand troops. On the 5th of July they embarked 
on twelve hundred boats, which for six and a half miles covered the surface, 
and passed down the lake in two parallel columns to the attack on Fort Ticon- 
deroga. 

•' Nature reigned upon the tranquil waters, upon the silent shores, and the 
rock-bound islands. The army rested at Sabbath Day Point, and at midnight 
proceeded to its destination. The next day a bloody skirmish ensued, at 
which the French were repulsed ; but Howe fell at the first fire, and with 
him expired the hope and spirit of the English army. 

"The French lines were constructed about half a mile in front of Fort 
Carillon, along a position of peculiar strength, and were defended by Mont- 
calm, with a force of about three thousand men. Two days after, the Eng- 
lish made a violent attack on these breastworks, but were repulsed with a 
loss of two thousand men killed and wounded. Having failed of their pur- 
pose, they returned, shattered and broken, to Fort William Henry. 



"In 1759, Lord Amherst arrived at the lake with eleven thousandinen and 
fifty-four pieces of cannon. Having partly built the stone fortress known as 
Fort George, and the redoubt on the back hill called Fort Gage, he moved 
down the lake and landed at the spot which Lord Howe had occupied the year 
before. After some skirmishing, Bourlemaque, who had command of the 
French troops, withdrew down the lake, and the British forces took possession 
of the long-coveted battlements of Ticonderoga. 

" The village of Caldv^ell is pleasantly situated at the head of the lake. It 
contains two churches, a court-house, and a number of pretty residences. 
Just behind the court-house is the bay where Montcalm landed his cannon, and 
where his entrenchm .^nts began. It ran across the street, near Brown's Hotel, 
to the rising ground beyond the Episcopal church." 




"afloat". 

This historic sketch is so accurately prepared, that we thought it best to 
present it in its entirety. 

Those who have only a day can make a delightful excursion from Saratoga 
to Caldwell by rail, then through the Lake to Baldwin, and thence by rail to 
Saratoga, or via Baldwin and up the lake to Caldwell, and so to Saratoga. 
But, to get the full beauty of this unrivalled lake, the trip should be made 
with less haste, for there is no more delightful place in the world to spend a 
week, a month, or an entire summer. Lake George and its immediate sur- 
roundings present much to interest the student of history and legend ; and to 
lovers of the beautiful it acknowledges no rivals. Its elevation and absolute 
purity of air make it a desirable place for the tourist. It is 346 feet above the 
level of the sea, 247 feet above Lake Champlain, and is now brought 

99 



within six hours of New York by the enterprise of the Delaware and Hudson 
Canal Company. 

The Hotels.— The Lake House, a view of which is here given, has a de- 
lightful location, and, taken all in all, presents to our mind the greatest at- 
tractions to the traveler and visitor. During the last seven years we have 




\ 



Camping scene, lake george. 

spent many days at Caldwell, and tested the entertainment of all the hotels 
therein, and we give, without I'eserve, the verdict to the Lake House. In 
days like these, which try men's pockets, the traveler wishes to get the worth 
of his money, and this he will be sure to do at the hotel here indicated. 
There is no finer table in the United States. The trees and grounds of the ho- 
tel are very tast}^ and the pleasant cottages are an attractive feature (three 

lot 



new ones having been added.) The proprietor, Mr. F. G. Tucker, has made ex- 
tensive improvements, having added cold and hot baths. The hotel is 300 feet 
long, with piazzas fronting the lake and street, with an open porch on one side 
shaded with maples, and lawn sloping to the lake. The hotel is within five 
minutes of the station. There will be carriages for the Lake House at all 
trains and boats. Good Hvery and boats. Also steamer " Julia." Telegraph 
and news-room in hotel. 

CROSBYSIDE— LAKE GEORGE. 

CROSBYSIDE HOTEL. F. G. CROSBY, PROPRIETOR. 

About ten minutes' ride from the depot is Crosbyside, with its attractive 
grounds and magnificent location. We regret that we have not a picture to 
help us express our admiration of this charming place. The view from the 
veranda commands the lake for fifteen miles, with Tongue Mountain in full 
view, and Dome Island, Long Island, and Recluse Island in the distance. It 
is admitted by every one that no house on the lake has such a fine prospect. 
It seems to be located in just the right place, and every guest says just in the 
right hands. Mr. F. G. Crosby has gathered to himself, by his personal quali- 
ties, the best people who visit Lake George. As Mr. Stoddard has remarked 
in his Guide : "Crosbyside is to Lake George what the Clarendon is to Sara- 
toga, having an unostentatious but select class of visitors." It has capacity for 
accommodating about 200 guests, and the same old faces are drawn back again 
year by year, not only by the delightful surroundings, but, as has been well 
said, by " the bountifully supplied table, made inviting by its crisp purity and 
dainty niceness." The natural park near at hand is also a pleasant feature, 
and the broad piazza and cheerful drawing-rooms are suggestive of comfort 
and repose. It is a quiet, beautiful spot, and almost every day some visitor to 
the lake says : "If we had only known of Crosbyside before !" It is one of 
the few hotels which exist without advertising, or rather it needs no other ad- 
vertisement than the good words of friends who come annually to make them- 
selves and Mr. Crosby ahke happy. Board from $12.50 to $25 per week, de- 
pending upon size and situation of rooms and number of persons in a room. 
The cars running direct to the lake, make " Crosbyside " a near neighbor of 
Saratoga. For all points down the lake, we refer the traveler to Stoddard's 
hand-book, which gives just what the traveler needs to know. His hand^ 
books to Lake George and the Adirondacks leave little to be desired in the way 
of information and suggestion. As to Bolton and other points down the lake, 
we refer the traveler to his description. The Champlain Transportation Com- 

102 



pany runs a regular line of steamboats the entire length of the lake, making 
three round trips daily, except Sunday. The Horicon is a fine side-wheel 
steamer, 203 feet long and 52 feet wide, and will accommodate, comfortably, 
1,000 people. 

At Fort Ti the tourist north can continue his route via the New York and 
Canada R. R. and Saratoga Division to Plattsburgh, Rouse's Point, or Mon- 
treal, or go up Lake Champlain by steamer. The ruins of Fort Ti, like old 
Fort Putnam at West Point, are picturesque, and will well repay a visit. 

FROM FORT EDWARD TO MONTREAL. 

The reader who does not visit Lake George, may feel that he is switched off 
on a side-track at Fort Edward, and, returning to his rescue, we return again, 
via the main line, through Dunham's Basin, Smith's Basin, Fort Ann, and 
Comstock's Landing, to — "? 

Whitehall, a village of six or seven thousand inhabitants, with a romantic 
location at the head of Lake Champlain. This village is the centre of a large 
lumber trade, and has a location quite like an infant Chicago. 

From Whitehall the traveler has two routes before him for Montreal, one 
via Port Kent, Plattsburgh, and Rouse's Point ; the other via Rutland, Bur- 
lington and St. Albans. The route, via the New York and Canada Rail- 
road, completed in the Summer of 1876, opens up a romantic and delightful 
country for Summer travel. It crosses all the thresholds for the Adirondacks, 
and shortens the journey to the mountain districts. It passes through five 
mountain ranges, the most southerly, the Black Mountain range, terminating 
in Mt. Defiance, with scattering spurs coming down to the very shore of the 
Lake. 

The second range is known as the Kayaderosseras, the terminations of 
which lie along the shore north of Ticonderoga, culminating in Bulwagga 
Mountain. 

The third range passes through the western part of Schroon, the northern 
part of Moriah and centre of Westport, ending in Split Rock Mountain. The 
fourth range, the Bouquet Range, ends in high bluffs on Willsboro Bay. 
Here the famous Red Rock Cut is located, and the longest tunnel on the line. 

The fifth range, once known as the Adirondack Range, as it includes the 
most lofty of the Adirondack Mountains, viz : Mclntyre, Colden and Tahawas, 
end in a rocky promontory known as Tremblau Point, at Port Kent. These 
facts, which we know will be of interest to the traveler, are found in the 
Plattsburgh Republican — the great Thesaurus of Tahawas matters. The his- 

103 




CATHEDRAL EOCK, AUSABLE CHASM. 



torical sketch of this road, written by Mr. G. F. Bixby, its able editor, was 
highly complimented, and re-printed by the officers of the Road, 

No wonder, with these mountain ranges to get through, that the subject 
was agitated year after year, and it was only when the Hudson and Delaware 
Canal Company put their strong shoulder to the wheel, that the work began 
to go forward. For these mountains meant tunnels, and rock cuts, and 
bridges, and cash. Leaving Whitehall, we pass through the tunnel n^ar the 
old steamboat landing, across the marsh, which must have suggested the be- 
ginning of the Pilgrim's Progress, for it seemed almost bottomless, we are 
wheeled along the narrow end of the Lake, still marked by light-houses, 
where steamers once struggled and panted "like fish out of water," and ful- 
filled the Yankee's ambition of running on a heavy dew. Winding in and out 
along the shore, we proceed to — 

TiCONDEROGA, 23 miles from Whitehall. Here terminates the first range of 
the Adirondacks, to which we have already referred, viz. : Mount Defiance. 
Steamers connect with the train at this point on Lake Champlain, also a Rail- 
road for Lake George. Near the station we get a view of old Fort Ticonde- 
roga, where Ethan Allen breakfasted early one morning, and said grace in a 
brief and emphatic manner. 

The Lake now widens into a fine sheet of water, and crossing the Lake 
George outlet, enters a deep rock-cut, which soon deepens into a tunnel some 
300 feet long. 

Crow^n Point is thirty-four miles north of Whitehall, with its blast furnaces 
and branch railroad to Hammondville mines, some thirteen miles in length, 
up the Valley of Put Creek. Passing along the shore of Bulwagga Bay, we 
come to — 

Port Henry, forty miles from Whitehall, where there are more blast fur- 
naces and another private railroad, seven miles long, to Mineville, we pass 
through another cut and another tunnel some 300 feet long. A few miles 
above this the railroad leaves the Lake at Mullen Brook, the first departure 
since we left Whitehall, and we are greeted with cultivated fields and a 
charming landscape. 

Westport, fifty-one miles from Whitehall, the railroad station for — 

Elizabethtown, the county seat of Essex. It is about eight miles distant 
from the station, and we know of no pleasanter village nestled among the 
mountains. A county consisting mostly of mountain scenery could have no 
happier location for a head-centre. 

A short distance north of Westport we enter the well cultivated Bouquet 
Valley, and after a pleasant run we come to Wellsboro Falls, where we 

105 




DOWN FROM HYDE'S CAVE. 



enter seven miles of rock cutting. The road is about 90 feet above the lake, 
and the cuts in many places are from 90 to 100 feet high. After leaving Red 
Rock Cut, we pass through a tunnel 600 feet long. Crossing Higby's Gorge and 
around Tremblau Mountain, we come to— 

Port Kent, to which Keeseville, an enterprising village, connects itself by 
a well-managed stage line. There is a good deal of progressive life about this 
pleasant town of 4,000 inhabitants. The scenery is charming and romantic 
on every side. 

But the crowning point of interest is the— 

AUSABLE Chasm, three miles from the station or landing at Port Kent. 
The entrance to the chasm is on the grounds of— 

The Lake View House, an excellent Hotel, which has a fine outlook over 
the lake, and commands an extended view of the Adirondacks and an en- 
chanting, far-away view of the Green Mountains of Vermont. 

It is now three or four years since we visited the Ausable Chasm, but the 
pictures are still stamped upon our mind clear and definite -the ledge under 
Birmingham Falls, the Flume, the Devil's Pulpit, and the boat-ride on the 
swift current. Indeed, the entire rock-rift, almost two miles in length, has 
left an impression which subsequent views have not effaced. Since that time 
it has been my good fortune to visit Watkins Glen, Trenton Falls, and the 
Flume of the Opalescent, on the western side of Mount Marcy, but their wild 
beauty and grandeur are all blended in this wonderful chasm. We advise 
every northern tourist not to pass by this feature of the trip. Save a day or 
half a day somewhere else on the route and see the Chasm of the Ausable. 
The one thing which we remember more definitely than any other was the 
illusion that we were floating up stream, that the river, compressed in these 
narrow limits, had - got tired'' of finding its way out, and thought the easiest 
way was to run up hill and get out at the top. 

The views here given were furnished us by Mr. D. M. Kendrick, General 
Passenger Agent of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company, of Albany, 
N Y and we take this opportunity of thanking him for his courtesy. The 
conveniences for enjoying a visit to the Ausable Chasm were never so com- 
plete as this season. The new truss bridges and iron railmgs m the rock 
galleries render the trip absolutely safe. The Lake View House is now under 
the admirable and efficient management of J. H. Burdsall. The hotel has 
been greatly enlarged, and its dining-room will seat fully 300 persons. It is, 
in fact, a model hotel, and a pleasant point to visit en route to the Adirondacks. 

Plattsburgh, the most flourishing town in northern New York, is 14 miles 
from Port Kent, and 90 miles from Whitehall. The Fouquet is the best hotel. 

107 






This House is delightfully situated upon an eminence, and commands 

a view of 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN AND THE ADIRONDACKS. 



HOT AND COLD WATER ON EACH FLOOR, LIGHTED BY GAS, BARBER SHOP, BILLIARD ROOM 

AND BOWLING ALLEYS. 



TELEGRAPH OFFICE AND LIVERY STABLE ATTACHED. 



I?,OXJTE!S TO THIE CH^A^S^^^- 

From New York. — Hudson River boat or rail to Albany or Troy ; thence 
rail through Saratoga to Ticonderoga ; thence Lake Champlain boat to Port Kent, 
or all rail from Albany to same point. Lake George may be included in this 
route. At New York, Albany, Saratoga, etc., tickets are obtainable to Port 
Kent via Lake George. 



With its wonderful natural attractions, within tv/o minutes' walk of the Hotel. 

Stages meet every Train and Steamboat at Port Kent ; three miles distant by 
plank road. 

For further particulars address 

MANAGER FOR AUSABLE CO., 

A usable Chasm, JV. Y, 



It is conveniently located, close by the station, and travelers on through trains 
have ample time for meals. The northern part of Lake Champlain offers 
special * attractions to camping parties. The shores and islands abound in 
excellent sites. Lake Champlain is also replete with interest to the historian. 
The ruins of Fort St Anne are still seen on the north end of Isle LaMott, 
built by the French in 1660. Valcour Strait, where one of the battles of '76 
was fought ; Valcour's Island, where lovers came from far and near, built air 
castles, wandered through these shady groves for a season or two, and then 
vanished from sight, bankrupt in everything but mutual affection ; Cumber- 
land Bay, with its victory, September, 1814, when the British were driven 
back to Canada ; and many other points which can be visited by steamer or 
yacht. 

The route to the Adirondacks via Plattsburgh is easy and pleasant, and I 
transcribe at this place an article which the writer prepared for the June or 
July Outing of 1883, as it presents fully our idea of this mountain district : 

The Adirondacks, — The White Mountains are frequently called the Switz- 
erland of America ; Lake George and Lake Memphremagog are often likened 
to Loch Katrine, or Loch Lomond ; the Hudson is sometimes compared with 
the Rhine ; but it is the glory of the Adirondacks that no traveler has been able 
to liken them to any other part of the earth's surface. The Yosemite, on the 
Pacific slope, and the Adirondacks, on the Atlantic, stand alone in their pe- 
culiar types of sublimity and beauty. 

The subject of our sketch naturally divides itself into two sections, — the 
eastern, or mountain district, and the western or lake district ; the division 
line being well indicated by the north branch of the Hudson and the west 
branch of the Ausable. The lake district empties its waters into the St. Law- 
rence ; the mountain district into Lake Champlain and the Hudson. 

In this article I propose to speak of the mountain district. It must not, how- 
ever, be understood by the reader that the mountain district has no lakes, or 
the lake district no mountains ; for the "Braided Lakes," west of the Hudson 
water-shed, reflect in tlieir bright mirrors many mountain peaks of no mean 
altitude ; and the traveler over the trails of Tahawas and Skylight will drink 
of the clear waters of Lakes Avalanche and Colden, of Lakes Henderson and 
Ausable. 

It is not my purpose to talk of the Adirondacks as a health-resort, although 
its pine, hemlock, and fir balsam forests make it unrivalled as a sanitarium ; 
nor to consider its great mineral resources, but simply to indicate some of its 
principal features of beauty, its general points of attraction, and the best 
way of reaching them. 

109 




RAINBOW FALLS, AUSABLE, N. Y 



The accepted route is via the Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s Railroad to 
Westport — about five hours' run from Albany ; from Westport by stage or 
carriage through Elizabethtown to Keene Valley (twenty-five miles), Keene 
Flats (thirty -five miles), Lake Placid (thirty-six miles), Saranac Lake (fifty-one 
miles), or by rail to Ausable Forks via Plattsburgh. Visitors to the Saranacs, 
Lake Placid, or Paul Smith's shorten the carriage route some fifteen or twenty 
miles by taking all rail route to Ausable Forks. Another pleasant gateway of 
the Adirondacks is via Port Kent, and the justly famed Ausable Chasm. 

As it is my purpose to make this a practical article, — that is, to convey ac- 
curate information to persons unfamiliar with this mountain district, — it may 
perhaps be well to indicate briefly our first trip over Tahawas, just ten years 
ago, here and there marking the changes which I noted last summer. 

We (the Tahawas Club) took tlie cars one August morning from Plattsburgh 
to Ausable Forks, — a distance of some twenty miles, hired a team to Beede's — 
the terminal point of civilization, some thirty miles distant from the " Forks ;" 
took dinner at Keene, and pursued our route up the beautiful valley of the 
Ausable. Beede's was then merely a farm-house, and as the "house" was 
full, we camped in the barn ; my last visit presented a large and commodious 
hotel, with pleasant rooms and wide veranda, in cheerful contrast to the first 
entertainment. 

From this point we visited Roaring Brook Falls, some four hundred feet 
high, which we remember as a very beautiful waterfall in the evening twi- 
light. The next morning we started, bright and early, for the Ausable Ponds ; 
four miles of wood-road, smoothed recently into a very comfortable carriage 
road, brought us to the Lower Ausable. The historic guide, "old Phelps," 
rowed us across the Lower Lake, pointing out, from our slowly moving and 
heavily laden scow, " Indian Head " on the left, and the " Devil's Pulpit " on 
the right, lifted about eight hundred feet above the level of the lake. 
"Phelps" remarked, with quaint humor, that he was frequently likened to 
his Satanic Majesty, as he often took clergymen " up thar." The rocky walls 
of this Lake rise from one thousand to fifteen hundred feet high, in many 
places almost perpendicular. A large eagle soared above the cliffs, and circled 
in the air above us ; but no one in the party had the rashness to shoot at it. 
In fact, we had fired most of ^ ^r ammunition off the day previous at squirrels 
on the fences, without grazing a hair, or scarcely frightening the lively quad- 
rupeds. 

After reaching the southern portion of the Lake, a trail of a mile and 
a -quarter leads to the Upper Ausable— to our minds, the gem of the Adiron- 
dacks. This Lake, over two thousand feet above the tide, is surrounded on 

111 



all sides by lofty mountains. Our camp was on the eastern shore, and I can 
never forget the sun-set view, as rosy tints lit up old Sky-light the Hay-stack 
and the Gothics ; nor can I ever forget the evening songs from a camp fire 
across the lake, or the " Bear story " told by Phelps, a tale never really fin- 
ished, but made classic and immortal by Stoddard, in his spicy and reliable 
hand-book to the North Woods. 

The next morning we row^ed across the lake and took the Bartlett trail, as- 
cending Hay-stack, some five thousand feet high, just to get an appetite for din- 
ner ; our guide encouraging us on the way by saying, that there never had been 
more than twenty people before " on that air peak.'' In fact, there was no 
trail, and in some places it was so steep that we were compelled to go up on 
all fours ; or as Scott puts it more elegantly in the " Lady of the Lake : " 

"The foot was fain 
Assistance from the hand to gain." 

The view from the summit well repaid the toil. We saw Slide Mountain, 
near by to the north, and Whiteface far beyond, perhaps twenty-five miles 
distant ; northeast, the Gothics ; east, Saw-teeth, Mt. Colvin, Mt. Dix, and the 
Lakes of the Ausable. To the southeast. Skylight ; northwest, Tahawas, stil 
called by some Mt. Marcy. The descent of Haystack was as easy as Virgil's 
famous "Descensus Averni." We went down in just twenty minutes. The 
one that reached the bottom first simply possessed better adaptation for rolling. 
One mile from the foot of Haystack brought us to Panther Gorge Camp, ap- 
propriately named, one of the wildest spots in the Adirondacks. We re- 
mained there that night and slept soundly, although a dozen of us were packed 
so closely in one small camp that no individual could turn over without disar- 
ranging the whole mass. Caliban and Trinculo were not more neighborly, and 
Sebastian, even sober, would have been fully justified in taking us for "a 
rare monster " with twenty legs. 

The next morning we ascended Tahawas, but saw nothing save wiiirling 
clouds on its summit ; twice since then w-e have had better fortune, and 
looked down from this mountain peak, five thousand three hundred and forty- 
four feet above the sea, upon the loveliest mountain landscape that the sun 
ever shone upon. We went down the western slope of Tahawas, through a 
driving rain, to Camp Golden, where, with clothes hung up to dry, we looked 
like a party of New Zealanders preparing dinner, hungry enough, too, to 
make an orthodox meal of each other. The next day the weather cleared up, 
and we made a trip of two miles, over a rough mountain trail, to Lake Ava- 
lanche, whose rocky and precipitous walls form a fit christening bowd, or bap- 
tistery-font for the infant Hudson. 

112 



Returning to Camp Golden and resuming oiir western march, two miles 
brought us to Calamity Pond, where a lone monument marks the spot of 
Pavid Henderson's death, by the accidental discharge of a pistol. Five miles 
from this point brought us to the "Deserted Village," or the Upper Adu'on- 
dack Iron Works, with houses and furnaces abandoned, and rapidly falling 
into decay. Here we found a pleasant hotel and cordial welcome. 

Had I time to picture to you this level, grass-grown street, with fifteen or 
twenty square box-looking houses, windovvless, empty and desolate ; a school- 
house with its long vacation of twenty three years ; a bank with heavy shut- 
ters and ponderous locks ; whose floor, Time, the universal burglar had under- 
mined ; two large furnaces with great rusty wheels, whose occupation was 
gone forever ; a thousand tons of charcoal, untouched for a quarter of a cen- 
tury ; thousamls of brick waiting for a builder ; a real haunted house, whose 
flapping clap-boards contain more spirits than the Black Forests of Germany, 
— a village so utterly desolate, that it has not even the vestige of a grave- 
yard. If I could picture to you this village, as it appeared to me that weird 
midnight, lying so quiet, 

" under the light of the solemn moon," 

you would realize as I did then, that truth is indeed stranger than fiction, and 
that Goldsmith in Ids "Deserted Village," had not overdrawn the description 
of desolate Auburn. 

By special request, we were permitted to sleep that night in the Haunted 
House, and no doubt we listened to the first crackling that the old fire-place 
had known for years. Many bedsteads in the old houses were still standing, 
so we only needed bedding from the hotel to make us comfortable. As we 
went to sleep we expressed a wish to be interviewed in the still hours of night 
by any ghosts or spirits who might haj^pen to like our company ; but the 
spirits must have been absent on a visit that evening, for we slept undisturbed 
until the old bell, suspended in a tree, rang out the cheer}' notes of *' trout 
and pickerel." We understand that the Haunted House from that night 
lost its old-time reputation, and is now frequently brought into requisition as 
an " Annex," whenever the hotel or " Club House," as it is now called, hap- 
pens to be full. The " Deserted Village " is rich in natural beauty. Lakes 
Henderson and Sanford are near at hand, and the lovely Preston Ponds are 
only five miles distant. 

Resuming our march through Indian Pass, under old Wall Face Mountain, 
we reached a comfortable farm-house at sunset near North Elba, known by 
the name of Scott's. The next morning we visited John Brown's house and 
grave by the old rock, and read the beautiful inscription, 

118 



•' Bury Me by the Old Rock, Where I Used to Sit and Read the 
Word of God." 

From this point we went to Lake Placid, engaged a lad to row us across the 
Lake— some of our party had gone on before— and strapped our knapsacks for 
another mountain climb. We were fortunate in having a lovely day, and! 
from its sparkling glacier- worn summit we could look back on all the moun- 
tains of our pleasant journey, and far away across Lake Champlain to Mount 
Mansfield and Camel's Hump of the Green Mountains, and farther still to the 
faint outlines of Mount Washington. We reached Wilmington that night, 
drove the next morning to Ausable Forks, and took the cars for Plattsburgh. 
The ten days' trip was finished, and at this late hour I heartily thank the 
Tahawas Club of Plattsburgh for taking me under their generous care and 
guidance. We took Phelps, our guide, back with us to Plattsburgh. When he 
reached the "Forks," and saw the cars for the first time in his life, he stooped 
down and, examining the track, said, "What tarnal little wheels." I sup- 
pose he concluded that if the ordinary cart had two large wheels, that real 
car wheels would resemble the Rmgs of Saturn. He saw much to amuse and 
interest him during his short stay in Plattsburgh, but after all he thought it 
was rather lonesome, and gladly returned to his Lakes and Mountains, where 
he slept in peace, with the occasional intrusion of a " Bar" or a " Painter. 
He knew the region about Tahawas as an engineer knows his engine, or as a 
Greek Professor knows the pages of his lexicon. He had lived so closely with 
nature that he seemed to understand her gentlest whispers, and he had more 
genuine poetry in his soul than many a man who chains weak ideas in tangled 
metre. 

Since that first delightful trip I have visited the Adirondacks many times, 
and I hope this summer to repeat the excursion. To me Tahawas is the grand 
centre. It remains unchanged. In fact, the route I have here traced is the 
same to-day as then. Even the rude camps are located in the same places, 
with the exception that the trail has been shortened over Tahawas, and a camp 
established on Skylight. With good guides the route is not difficult for ladies 
in good health, — say sufficient health to endure half a day's shopping. Per- 
sons contemplating the mountain trip need blajikets, a knapsack, and a rub- 
ber-cloth or overcoat ; food can be procured at the hotels or farm-houses. 

In this hasty sketch I have had little space to indulge in picture-painting. 
I passed Bridal Veil Fall without a reference. I was tempted to loiter on the 
banks of the Feld-spar and the bright Opalescent, but I passed by without 
even picking a pebble from the clear basins of its sparkling cascades. I passed 
the " tear of the clouds," four thousand feet above the tide— that fountain of 

114 



the Hudson nearest to the sky, without being beguiled into poetry. I have 
not ventured upon a description of a sunrise view from the summit of Taha- 
was, of the magic effect of light above clouds that clothe the surrounding 
peaks in garments wrought, it seems, of softest wool, until mist and vapor 
dissolve in roseate colors, and the landscape lies before us like an open book, 
which many glad eyes have looked upon again and again. I have left it for 
your guides to tell you, by roaring camp fires, long stories of adventure in 
trapping and hunting, of wondrous fishes that grow longer and heavier every 
season, although captured, and broiled many and many a year ago — trout and 
pickerel literally pickled in fiction, served and re-served in the piquant sauce 
of mountain vocabulary. In brief, I have kept my imagination and enthusi- 
asm under strict control. But, after all, the Adirondacks are a wonderland, 
and we, who dwell in the Hudson and Mohawk valleys, are happy in having 
this great Park of Nature's making at our very doors. 

It has charms alike for the hunter, the angler, the artist, the writer, and the 
scientist. Let us rejoice, therefore, that the State of New York is waking at 
last to the fact, that these northern mountains were intended by nature to be 
something more than lumber ranches, to be despoiled by the axe, and finally 
revert to the state for "taxes" in the shape of bare and desolate wastes. Nor 
can the most practical legislator charge those, who wish to preserve the Adi- 
rondack Woods, with idle sentiment ; as it is now an established scientific fact 
that the rain-fall of a country is largely dependent upon its forest land. If 
the water supply of the north were cut off, to any perceptible degree, the 
Hudson, during the months of July and August, would be a mere sluice of 
salt water from New York to Albany ; and the northern canals, dependent 
on this supply, w^ould become empty and useless ditches. Our age is in- 
tensely practical, but we are fortunate in this, that so far as the preservation 
of the Adirondacks is concerned, utility, common sense, and the appreciation 
of the beautiful are inseparably blended. 

To those persons who do not desire long mountain jaunts, who simply need 
some quiet place for rest and recuperation, I would suggest this : Select some 
place near the base of these clustered mountains, like the tasty Adirondack 
Lodge at Clear Pond, only seven miles from the summit of Tahawas, or 
Beede's pleasant hotel, high and dry above Keene Flats, near to the Ausable 
Ponds, or some pleasant hotel or quiet fartu house in the more open country 
near Lake Placid and the Saranacs. But I prophesy that the spirit of adven- 
ture will come with increased strength, and men and women alike will be 
found wandering off on long excursions, sitting about great camp-fires, ay, 
listening like children to tales which have not gathered truth with age. If 

115 



you have control of your time you will find no pleasanter months than July 
August, or September, and when you return to your own firesides with new 
vigor to fight the battle of life, you will feel, I think, like thanking Outing 
for having advised you to go thither. 

I have written in this article the Indian name, Tahawas, in the place of Mt. 
Marcy, and for this reason : There is no justice in robbing the Indian of his 
keen, poetic appreciation, by changing a name, which has in itself a definite 
meaning, for one that means nothing in its association w4th this mountain. 
We have stolen enough from this unfortunate race to leave, at least, those 
names in our woodland vocabulary that chance to have a musical sound to 
our imported Saxon ears. The name Tahawas is not only beautiful in itself, 
but also poetic in its interpretation— signifying, " I cleave tlie clouds." Cole- 
ridge, in his glorious hymn, "Before sunrise in the vale of Chamouni," ad- 
dresses Mont Blanc : 

" Around thcc and above 

Deep is the air and dark, Bubstantiai, biacli,— 

An ebon mass. Methinks thou fiercest it. 

As with a wedge!'''' 

The name or meaning of Tahawas was never made know to the great Eng- 
lish poet, who died fifty years ago. Is it not remarkable that the untutored 
Indian, and the keenest poetic mind which England has produced for a cen- 
tury, should have the same idea in the uplifted mountains ? There is also 
another reason why we, as a State, should cherish the nanie Tahawas. While 
the Sierra Nevadas and the Alps slumbered beneath the waves of the ocean, 
before the Himalayas or the Andes had asserted their supremacy, scientists 
say, that the high peaks of the Adirondacks stood alone above the waves, the 
" the cradle of the world's life;" and, as the clouds then encircled the vast 
waste of water. Tahawas then rose — "Cleaver" alike of the waters and the 
clouds. 

TO MONTREAL via RUTLAND AND BURLINGTON. 

CENTRAL TERMONT RAILROAD. 

At Whitehall one branch of the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad bends to 
the east and passes through Fairhaven, Hydeville, Castleton, and WeSt Poult- 
ney, to Rutland, 244 miles from New York. This is the centre of the great 
marble trade, and one of the prominent railroad centres of Vermont. The 
Bardwell House is the finest in Rutland, complete in all its parts, and handy 
to the station, 

116 



Leaving Rutland for the north, we pass through Sutherland Falls, Pittsford, 
Brandon, Leicester, Salisbury, Middlebury, Brookville, New Haven, Ver- 
gennes, Ferrisburgh, Charlotte, and Shelburne, to Burlington, which we 
noticed on the previous page, with its pleasant location on the Lake. The 
Van Ness House is a fine hotel, central in location, with a nice outlook upon 
lake and mountain. It is the largest in Burlington, and will rank as one of 
the most convenient and thoroughly appointed houses in New England. 

From Burlington we pass north, through Essex, Milton, Georgia, and minor 
stations, to St. Albans. 

St. Albans. — This village is situated about two miles from and overlooks 
Lake Champlain. It is a town of about 7,000 inhabitants, and was made 
famous during the rebellion by a Canadian raid. It is a central point for 
persons en route for Alburgh and Shelden Springs, and has a large and 
magnificent hotel, the " Welden House," Thomas Lavender, proprietor. 

The Central Vermont Railroad has a pleasant route to Ogdensburgh, where 
a person can connect with steamers for Thousand Islands, and return via St. 
' Lawrence Rapids to Montreal. 

I The Rapids. — The first rapid below Ogdensburgh is near Chimney Island ; 
( the next, the rapids of the Long Sault, nine miles in length. Here the river 
'' runs twenty miles an hour. Then the Coteau Rapids, below Grand Island ; 
J then the Lachine Rapids, below the town of Lachine, only nine miles from 
1 Montreal. 

*i Alburgh Springs, is a pleasant resort for boating, shooting, and fishing, 
seventeen miles from St. Albans via this line. At Rouse's Point connections 
I are made with Lake Champlain steamers on the south, and Montreal on the 
i north. Going north via the direct line to Montreal, we pass through Higli- 
: gate Springs, with its pleasant Franklin House, St. Johns, and towns of 
I minor importance to — 

! Montreal, three hours' run from St. Albans, four hundred and twenty 
j miles from New York. The city is built on an Island of the St. Lawrence ; 
I the Island being thirty miles in length and ten in greatest breadth. Tlie Vic- 
j toria Tubular Bridge is one of the "eight wonders" of the world, being two 
miles in length. The spans between the piers are about 250 feet, and the cost 
of the bridge was almost $7,000,000. The cars cross the bridge in about six 
minutes. There are many fine buildings in Montreal and much that will in- 
terest the tourist, which we will here indicate in brief. The Church of Notre 
Dame, was opened for public worship in 1829. The ceiling was elaborately 
gilded in 1876. It is said to have the largest bell on the continent, and is 
capable of seating 10,000 people. The Church of the Jesuits is noted for its 

117 



beautiful frescoes, paintings and its musical services. The New Post Office, 
the Bank of Montreal, the New City Hall, the Bonsecours Market, and the 
Custom House will claim the attention of the visitor for the beauty and 
solidity of their architecture. 

There are many fine drives about the city, especially to the summit of 
Mount Royal. This mountain, named by Cartier in honor of his king, gave 
the name to the pleasant city, and during the last few years has been laid out 
in an artistic and beautiful park. 

Windsor Hotel.— In the pleasantest part of the city, and fanned by the 
breezes of Mount Royal, is located the magnificent " Windsor,'* whose name 
is already favorably known in two continents. In fact, taken all in all, there 
is no finer hotel in the world. 




WINDSOR HOTEL, MONTREAL. Mr. G. W. Swett, Manager. 

(Enlarged by a Wing containing 130 Rooms for the Season of 1883.) 

This magnificent new hotel, unsurpassed in America for comfort and 
luxury, and incomparably the finest in Canada, occupies an airy site on 
Dominion Square, on the main avenue leading to Mount Royal Park. The 
proprietors have thoroughly renovated the original part of the hotel (opened 
in 1878), and are determined not only to maintain the house at the high 
standard of excellence which has marked it from the first, but to adopt every 
improvement and device, as introduced, which may add to the safety, com- 
fort, and pleasure of their guests. The Winter Carnivals of 1883 and 1884 
were centred about the Windsor. A programme of great novelty and extent 
is being prepared for the Carnival of January, 1885. 

118 



Appletons' Guide Books 

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Revised each Season to date. Illustrated, and with Maps. Large 12mo, paper cover, 50 
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Appletons Dictionary of New York and Vicinity, 

An alphabetically arranged Inde.x; to all Places, Societies, Institutions, Amusements, and 
many other things in the Metropolis and Neighborhood, upon which information is needed 
by the Stranger or the Citizen. Revised and corrected each Season. With Maps of New 
York and vicinity. Paper, 30 cents. 



New York Illustrated, 

A Pictorial Delineation of Street Scenes, Buildings, River Views, and other Picturesque 
Features of Ihe Great Metropolis. With One Hundred and Forty-three Illustrations from 
drawings made specially for it, engraved in a superior manner. With large Maps of New 
York and Vicinity. Large 8vo, illustrated cover. 75 cents. 



Appletons Railway Gtcidc. 

Containing Maps and Time-tables of the Railways of the United States and Dominion of 
Canada. Revised and published Semi-Monthly. 25 cents. 



New York : D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 1, 3, & 5 Bond Street. 



DELAWARE AND HUDSON CANAL COMPANY. 

Albany and Susquehanna Department.— There are few railroads in our 
country that possess for so many miles such variety and interest as the Albany 
and Susquehanna. All the way from Albany to Bingham ton the hills and 
valleys, the streams, rivulets, and rivers form a succession of beautiful land- 
scapes, framed in the moving panorama of a car window. The railroad fol- 
lows the valleys of three streams— the Schoharie, the Cobleskill, and the 
Susquehanna. 

Leaving Albany we pass through the little villages and stations of Adams- 
ville, Slingerlands, New Scotland, Guilderland, Knowersville, Duanesburgh, 
Quaker Street, Esperance, and come to Central Bridge, thirty six miles from 
Albany, the junction with the branch road for Schoharie Court House and 
Middleburgh. Schoharie village, the county seat, is situated on Schoharie 
Flats. First settlement made in 1711. Population about fifteen hundred. 
The old stone church, erected in 1772, is now used as an arsenal. Three miles 
from Central Bridge, or thirty-nine miles from Albany, is the celebrated — 

Howe's Cave, discovered on the 22d May, 1842, by Lester Howe. In interest 
and extent it is second only to the great Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, and 
presents, in truth, a new world of beauty, with arches and walls reaching 
away for miles, of which perhaps the half is only discovered. Among the 
prominent points of interest in the cave are the following, as named by Mr. 
Howe : — 

"Reception, or Lecture Room," " Washington Hall," "Bridal Chamber," 
(temperature 48 degs. Fah.), where many have been nuptually tied, including 
the two daughters of the discoverer; "The Chapel," some forty feet high; 
"Harlequin Tunnel," "Cataract Hall," "Ghost Room, or Haunted Castle," 
" Music Hall," " Stygian, or Crystal Lake." At the foot of the lake there are 
several gas burners, giving the visitor a beautiful view of that portion of the 
cave and lake, and the side grotto near by. From thence visitors proceed by 
boats across the lake to "Plymouth Rock," and from thence continue the 
journey to the 'Devil's (rateway," "The Museum," "Geological Rooms," 
"Uncle Tom's Cabin," " Giants' Study," " Pirates' Cave," " Rocky Mountains." 
"Valley of Jehoshaphat," "Winding Way," and "Rotunda." There are the 
usual formations, known as " Stalagmites," and " stalactites," many of them 
singular in form and variety. In Washington Hall are two, named "Lady 
Washington's Hood "and "Washington's Epaulet ;" and beyond these are 
"The Harp," and numberless others. At the head and foot of the lake there 
are two large stalagmites, the former large enough to fill the entire body of 
the cave, which has made it necessary to excavate an artificial p:.ssage around 

120 



it. There is a narrow gauge railroad now in operation as far as the Giants' 
Chnpel, which will probably be extended to the lake. 

We are only able to mark out the route in this hasty manner. To speak of 
all the objects of interest would draw us aside from the purpose of a general 
guide. The Pavilion is a fine hotel at the mouth of the cave, and has re- 
cently been enlarged so that it can easily accommodate 150 guests. The 
wants of the tourist and explorer will be carefully attended to. Every one 
should visit Howe's Cave, and see these real " Arabian Night " beauties, near 
the capital of the Empire State. 

The next station is Cobleskill, forty -five miles from Albany. This rich and 
fertile valley was called by the Indians, Ots-ga-ra-ga. The village is thriving 
and flourishing. This is also the junction of the Cherry Valley Branch, which 
passes through Hyndsville, Seward, and Sharon Springs. 

Sharon Springs, once the rival of Saratoga, is located in a valley on a hill. 
The streets are well shaded, and the Sulphur Water is well known for its me- 
dicinal qualities. The largest hotel is the Pavilion, and the pleasantest, near 
the depot, is known as Feather's Hotel. The next station to Sharon is Cherry 
Valley, a pleasant town in the north-east corner of Otsego Co., and from this 
point a stage connects with Richfield Springs. Returning to Cobleskill, we 
pursue our route westward on the main line of the Albany and Susquehanna. 
We pass through Richmondville, lying in a valley on our left, East Worcester, 
Worcester, Schenevus and Maryland, to the junction of the Cooperstown and 
Susquehanna Valley Railroad, for — 

Cooperstown, one of the pleasantest villages in New York, and one of the 
classic points of our country. It is situated on the shore of Otsego, a beau- 
tiful lake, wortliy of being the fountain head of the bright-flowing Susque- 
hanna. The lake is said to be about 1,200 feet above the sea. Like Lake Ma- 
hopac, it is literally surrounded with beauty, and, like Irvington or Tarry- 
town, Cooperstown is one of the literary Meccas of our country, and, by all 
means, the place to read the works of Cooper. The principal hotels are the 
Cooper House, a summer hotel, 80 feet above the lake, with a park of seven 
acres, and the Hotel Fenimore, oj^en the entire year, with a fine location in 
the central i^art of the village, near the lake, and one of the finest in our State. 

Richfield Springs. — The route to this popular resort, via Cooperstown and 
Otsego Lake, is one of the most charming, romantic, and delightful of any 
tri^j designated in our Guide, and the village and surroundings of Richfield 
are worthy of tlie increasing tide of visitors. Of course, persons in a hurry 
will take a Drawing-room Coach at the New York Central Depot, via Utica, 
and arrive at Richfield Springs in eight hours ; but a little steamboating and 

121 



coaching— ten miles, via the Natty Bimippo steamer and six or seven miles by 
stage — give variety to the route. 

Richfield Springs is situated on an elevated j^lateau, 1,700 feet above tide- 
water, and has all the requisites of health and beauty, surrounded by moun- 
tains and lakes on every hand. 

Canadarago Lake is about three-fourths of a mile directly south from the 
Springs, five miles long, and one and a half miles wide, surrounded by wood- 
covered mountain ranges, and abounding in excellent fish. Thedrives 
around and to the different lakes tliat gem the mountains, and along the 




FIVE MILE POINT ON OTSEGO LAKE. 

Streams that braid the valleys, often detain the casual visitor ; for Mr. Seward 
expressed something besides poetry in prose in his oration of July 4th, 1840, 
when he said: "I have desired to see for myself the valleys of Otsego, 
through which the Susquehanna extends his arms and entwines his fingers 
with tho tributaries of the Mohawk, as if to divert that gentle river from its 
allcgiauce to the Hudson." 

• 123 



The Van Hornesville Caves and Waterfalls, ten miles distant from 
the Springs, are of surpassing beauty, hitherto but little known, but destined 
to a wide celebrity. The formation of the rocks is very remarkable, while 
the rush of water through this romantic glen makes it a most restful and 
pleasant resort. 




VAN HORNESVILLE WATERFALLS. 

The Spring House, the largest hotel in Richfield Springs, has a fine loca- 
tion in the midst of a beautiful park, tastefully laid out with flower beds. 
The hotel has accommodations for six hundred guests, and is under the effi- 
cient management of T. R. Proctor, of the Baggs Hotel, Utica, N. Y. The 
famous Sulphur Springs is on the grounds of the Spring House. This hotel 
has all the appointments and surroundings that are certain to gratify the 

124 



taste and insure the comfort of its guests. It is embowered in foliage, and 
Spring House Park, not sliown in the above engraving,, but" which almost 
environs it, is beautifully set with shrubs and forest trees and ornamented 
with rustic seats and arbors. 

In our detour from the main line of the Albany and Susquehanna Railroad, 
we have omitted to mention that the Albany and Susquehanna, after leaving 
the Cooperstown and Richfield Branch, passes south-west through Collier's 




SPRING HOUSE. 

and Emmon's, to Oneonta. one of the most stirring villages on the route. The 
next station is Otsego. From this point stages connect with the pleasant vil 
jlage of Franklin ; passing through Well's Bridge, Unadilla, Sidney, (with lbs 
branch road to Delhi), Af ton, and Harpersville, we come to the Tunnel, 127 miles 
(from New York. Then passing through Osborn Hollow and Port Crane, we 
ijcome to Binghamton, and complete the equilateral triangle — New York, Al- 
jbany, and Binghamton. It is a flourishing city, and has complete railway 

i 125 



connections with the Erie, the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western, anc 
Syracuse and Binghamton Railways. 




THE WHITE SULPHUR SPRING AND SPRING HOUSE PARK. 



126 



SewYori^, We?! ^tioi'e ^BufWo I^aiMjj. 



m^ "WEST SHORE ROUTE." 




iUPERBLY BUILT i MAGNIFICENTLY EQUIPPED TRUNK LINE 

BETWEEN 

New York, Albany, Buffalo & Niagara Falls. 

Forming, in connection with the Hoosac Ti nnel Line and the popular Great Western Railway, 

THE SHORTEST ROUTE 

Between Boston, Buffalo, Detroit, and Chicago. 
^ 

THE FINEST PULLMAN BUFFET SLEEPING CARS 

Ever placed in service on any line will be run regularly 

between BOSTON and CHICAGO. 

Between NEW YORK and CHICAGO. 

Between NEW YORK and BUFFALO. 

— — ^ 

MAGNIFICENT PULLMAN BUFFET PARLOR CARS 

With elegant interior decorations of the latest designs, will run regularly 

Jetween BOSTON and SYRACUSE. 

Between NEW YORK and ROCHESTER. 

Between NEW YORK and ALBANY. 

Trains to and from New York run via the Picturesque West Shore of Hudson River and thro' the Mohawk Valley. 
^. 

Baggage Checked from Hotels and liesidences to Destination. 

^'ickcts, Tivw Tables, Route Books, Suvimer Hotel atid Botu-ding House Lists, and information 
furnished zipon application to Offices of Company : 

In New York : Nos. 162, 261, 363, 946, 1323 Broadway ; 737 Sixth Avenue and 168 East 125th St. 
In Brooklyn : 4 Court St ; Annex Office, foot of Fulton St. ; 838 Fulton St., and 7 DeKalb Ave. 
In WiLLiAMSBURGH : Van Nostrand's Express Office, 107 Broadway. 
In Jersey City : Pennsylvania R. R. Ticket (Office in Station. 
In HoBOKEx ; Hauser & Schultze, 115 Washington Street. 

HENRY MONETT, Gen'l Pass'r Agent. 

No. 24 State Street, New York. 



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iro THE THOUSAND ISLANDS, CHAUTAUQUA AND NIAGARA FALLS 

Taking either the New York Central or the West Shore R. R. from Albany 
the tourist will pass through Schenectady, an old-fashioned town of about 
15,000 inhabitants, seat of Union College ; Little Falls, Herkimer, and Ilion 
to Utica. 

Little Falls is a flourishing village, seventy- four miles from Albany, and 
is situated in the wildest and most romantic part of the Mohawk Valley. 

Ilion is a pleasant village, and will interest the tourist and traveler as the 
place where the celebrated Remington fire-arms, type- writers and sewing 
machines are manufactured. Some months ago we were kindly shown 
through these extensive works, and we take pleasure in calling the attention 
of the reader to their business announcement on the opposite page. 




REMINGTON ARMORY.— E. REMINGTON & SONS, Ilion, N, Y. 

Utica — the first express station — ninety-five miles from Albany. This 
flourishing town, in Central New York, in continental days was the site of old 
Fort Schuyler. It is the landing-place for Trenton Falls and Richfield 
Springs. The attractions in and about Utica will well repay an extended 
visit. 

Persons en route to Trenton Falls or Richfield Springs will find Baggs 
Hotel, of Utica, near the station, the pleasantest and most convenient in the 
city. The proprietor, T. R. Proctor, is also proprietor of the " Spring House, 
Richfield Springs, of which we spoke in our last division. 

The Utica and Black River Railroad, from Utica to Clayton, is one of 
the pleasantest routes to the North Woods and the Thousand Islands. Six- 
teen miles from Utica we reach Trenton Falls, one of the most charming and 



129 



I 



«»- 




SHERMAN FA LL. 



romantic summel* resorts on tlie continent. For the last ten years we have 
heard of these beautiful waterfalls, located in what Willis has styled an "al- 
cove," aside from the main line of travel, "fifteen miles at right angles from 
the general procession, a side scene out of ear-shot from the crowd," but it 
was not until the middle of June, 1874, that good fortune conducted us thither, 
and led us by the liand from rock to rock, from cascade to waterfall, through 
all that realm of enchanting beauty. The hotel, a short distance from this 
mountain glen, is a model of summer resorts. The first rural resort of this 
place was built by Mr. John Sherman, a graduate of Yale, 1793. Hither some 
forty years ago Mr. Moore, present proprietor, came, like Hiawatha of old, and 
found his Minnehaha, great grand-daughter of Roger Sherman, a line more 
illustrious even than the tribe of the Dakotahs. It is said that on his return 
to Manhattan he was not unmindful of the vision, and always heard the Falls 
of Trenton — 

" Calling to him through the distonce. 
Calling to him from afar off." 

So much for his personal history, which we only mention as evidence that 
fiction is but the shadoiv of truth. We arrived at Trenton a little before six, 
and at once descended the stairs to the natural pavement, which for two 
miles, level with the water's edge, borders the left side of the stream. This 
is the pleasantest hour of the day for lonely rambles like these, and the fall- 
ing water at eventide has all the melody of sadness. Passing a few rods up 
the stream, over fossil formations which recount fifty million years of history, 
and under overhanging rock, every leaf of whose folds has been a recording 
page for science, we suddenly come in full view of Sherman Fall. Here, it is 
said, a fairy, (perhaps great grand-daughter of Undine), occasionally dances 
through the mist " modestly retiring as the visitor changes his position, and 
blushing all colors when she finds him gazing at her irised beauties." Tlie 
Fall has been poetically styled by Mrs. Kemble, 



^ 



' The daughter of heaven and earth, 
With dark eyes, white feet, and amber hair." 



In no place, save tlie northern Highlands of Scotland, liave we seen such 
amber foam, and such dark headlong flow of river. The arrowy llhone is not 
swifter, the Falls of Foyers are not so beautiful. Higli Falls are forty rods 
bej'ond, a .succession of lovely cascades, one over forty feet iji height. Here 
we have the whole organ choir, from the tenor and treble of the sheet of 
wat'?r on the right, to the deep bass of the heavy fall on the left. Above this, 
the Mill Dam Fall and the Alhambra, with its cascade, and still farther on the 

131 



Rocky Heart, a good spot for lovers to propose in, by way of contrast. We 
can only point out tliese beauties in a general way. Even the guide book of 
N. P. Willis the poet of descriptive language, fails to do Trenton Falls justice, 
altbougli it is a model handbook of its kind. It is a place to be visited. Pur- 
suing our journey up the the Black River Railroad, we pass through Prospect 
to Boonville, a flourishing village, thirty-five miles from Utica Here are good 
hotels, and large numbers annually visit Old Forge and Moose Lakes, the best 
sporting grounds of the Adirondacks. Lyons Fall, forty- six miles from Utica, 
is a wild, romantic, and much frequented spot. The High Falls (glimpses of 
which are seen from the train) are well worth visiting. We now pass 30 miles 
through the beautiful valley of the Black River, to — 

LowviLLE sixty miles from Utica, one of the most beautiful villages in 
northern New York ; noted for its fine drives, shady walks, and excellent 
hotels. From this point it is only 18 miles to Fentons, a good hotel in the fa_ 
mous John Brown's Tract, where sports nen and tourists can voyage in boats 
scores of miles, through rivers and beautiful lakes, in the very lieart of an un- 
broken wilderness. The Lowville Mineral Springs are only one mile from the 
station. 

Carthage, with its celebrated water-power, is seventy-four miles from 
Utica. Here the traveler can turn aside to — 

Watertown, a city of great manufacturing interest, beautifully laid out 
and containing elegant residences. Sackett's Harbor is only 12 miles from 
Watertown, one of the oldest places in the State. Pursuing the direct route 
to the Thousand Islands, the tourist passes through Philadelphia to Clayton. 

From Clayton to Montreal. — New York State is singularly favored in 
romantic, grand, and picturesque scenery. The St. Lawrence is one of the 
few rivers in the world worthy of an association with the Hudson. It com- 
bines many features of attraction. From Clayton to Alexandria Bay the pic- 
turesque islands present features not to be found on any other stream. Some 
of the islands are miles in length ; others are hardly large enough to support 
a colony of shrubs. Many of them are adorned by beautiful summer resi- 
dences. Three or four belong to religious and other associations. On Wells 
Island two or three societies have their summer home — that of the Methodist, 
well known as " Thousand Island Park,"' being the largest. At the lower end 
of the island there is a Presbyterian society, known as the ' ' Westminster 
Association." The Baptists have secured Round Island, about three miles 
from Clayton, and commenced a summer town. Mr, Taylor, the artist has a 
picturesque residence on this island. As we near Alexandria Bay we find a 
greater number that have beeu appropriated to summer homes. Notable 

132 



among these are the Pullman Cottage, Bonnie Castle (the summer home 
of the late Dr. J. G. Holland), Governor's Island (belonging to Mr. Alvord), 
Florida Island, Walton Island, Arcadia Island, Manhattan, Welcome, and 
Summer Islands. The Devil's Chimney is one of the plnces to be visited. 
The tourist en route to Montreal passes through miles of these emerald and 
rocky isles — the Tree Sisters, on account of their resemblance to each other, 
bidding him a pleasant good-by. Then comes a broad, lake-like expanse 
which extends beyond Ogdensburg — a pleasant and flourishing town. Then 
comes the excitement of " passing the Rapids," where the water runs twenty 
miles an hour. Below Grand Island are the Coiteau Rapids, the Cedars, Split 
Rock, and Cascade Rapids. At Lake St. Louis, below the Cascade Rapids, the 
river is six miles in breadth. Passing the Lachine Rapids we reach Montreal, 
a beautiful city, to which we refer later in our Guide-Book. The tourist will 
find a pleasant route betw^een Montreal and Quebec via the night steamers. 
The little villages along either shore have just enough of the "foreign" in 
their character to make them interesting. The old city of Quebec is one of 
the picturesque cities of the continent. The Heights of Abraham, the old 
walls and antique streets are full of history and poetry. But to our mind the 
loveliest spot on the river is — 

The following sketch will be of interest which we have imbibed from a de- 
scriptive Guide to these Islands : 

"The river was discovered August 10, 1535, by Jacques Cartier, who named 
it St. Lawrence in honor of the saint whose feast is celebrated on that day. 
rhe first European who visited Lake Ontario was Samuel Champlain, in 1615 ; 
md in his meagre descriptions he mentions some beautiful and very large is- 
lands at the beginning of the St. Lawrence. It is supposed that some French 
explorers, who went up the river about 1650, gave the region its present name 
^^ Milles Isles,'" or Thousand Islands. 

" The flag of France first o'er them hung, 
The mass was said, the vespers sung, 
The friars of Jesus hailed the strands. 
As blessed Virgin Mary's lands, 
And red men mutely heard, surprised, 
Their heathen names all christianized." 

In the papers relating to DeComceile's and DeTracey's expeditions against 
;he Mohawk Indians in 1666, the islands are complained of as obstructing navi- 
gation and mystifying the most experienced Iroquois pilots. 

In the year 1660, a Capt. Ponchot described the region somewhat minutely 
n his journal, which was afterwards published in Switzerland, and there have 

133 



.^tifiTlTTniTnTTIlTFIIMWIiliiliiiiliniilFflTpr 



Hill: 





HiJiUlllilllaULUiU Ultjiillilllllllli 111 II IIUllLllJIlllllllllllllllJillllllMiailjil 



been frequent allusions to, and descriptions of it, written and published from 
that time to the present. The picturesque scenery of this spot also seems to 
have made a lasting impression upon French artists, as one of the finest paint- 
ings that greet the eye of an American on entering the Picture Gallery at Ver- 
sailles, presents a view of these attractive wilds. 

The first military post on Lake Ontario and the upper St. Lawrence was 
Fort Frontenac, which was established by the French under the direction of 
Count de Frontenac, in 1673, on the spot where Kingston now stands. During 
the French war, in 1758, this post was captured by an English army of 3,340 
men, commanded by Col. John Bradstreet, who crossed over from Oswego. 
It then remained in English possession until surrendered again to the French, 
in whose possession it remained until a short time before the Revolution. 

Fort Carleton, the ruins of which are seen upon the upper end of Carleton 
Island, just below Cape Vincent, was built under the direction of Gen. Carle- 
ton, as a British post, in 1777, During the Revolutionary war, and for some 
time afterwards, it was the principal military station on the lake. It was 
finally abandoned as a place of military defense in 1808. It remained in 
nominal possession of the British until the beginning of the war of 1812. 

The boundary line between Canada and the United States was definitely 
settled in 1812. The first steamboat appeared on Lake Ontario and the St. 
Lawrence in 1817, causing great excitement and demonstration amowg the 
people along the shores. Its name was the Oneida. 

In 1823 all the islands in the state between Ogdensburg, on the St. Law- 
rence, and Grindstone Island, in Lake Ontario, were granted to Elisha Camp, 
of Sacket's Harbor, and all titles within these limits must be traced to this 
proprietor. The Patriot War, which led to exciting military scenes and ad- 
ventures on the St. Lawrence, occurred in 1837 and 1839. The British steamer, 
" Sir Robert Peel," was fired and burnt on the south side of Wells Island, on the 
night of May 29-30, 1838, and the " Battle of the Windmill" occurred at Pres- 
cott, in November of the same year, a memorable battle to the elder Crossmon, 
who was taken prisoner during the engagement, tried, and sentencedto be 
shot. Owing to his extreme youth, a respite was obtained, and he was af- 
terward ransomed, thus barely escaping with his life. 

The river cottages are nTunerous. and every year important additions arc 
made to them. It is noticeable, that as time passes, the new ones eoustnicttul 
are made more and more elegant and improved. 

PARKS, 

The Thousand Island Park, of the Methodists, on the upper end of Wells 
Island, was started in 1873, and to its natural beauties have been added de- 

135 



lightful drives and walks ; a village of cottages, bath houses, and buildings 
for religious purposes and the accommodation of visitors. Here are held 
camp meetings, Sunday School, temperance aud educational conventions every 
season. 

Westminster Park was purchased in 1874 by a Presbyterian stock company, 
and has been rapidly improved, having now several miles of winding drives, 
and some fine buildings. This Park is at the foot of Wells Island and directly 
opposite Alexandria Bay. across a mile of water. In the midst of the ground 
is a high hill, to the top of which is a winding roadway. This hill is called Mt. 
Beulah, and is surmounted by a pentagonal chapel, which will accommodate 
one thousand persons and has a tower 186 feet high, presenting one of the best 
views of the river and islands. 

Round Island Park belongs to a Baptist Association, which was organized in 
the summer of 1879. It occupies the whole of a large island, about two miles 
from Thousand Island Park. A number of lots have been sold, and on many 
of them cottages are to be built this season. 

In brief. The Thousand Islands are developing rapidly. Every season the 
old visitors come back, and year by year new acquaintances rejoice in their 
beauty. It is indeed a fairy kaleidoscope of land and water, and the beautiful 
cottages give it the appearance of a sort of rural Venice. 

FROM UTICA TO NIAGARA FALLS. 

Returning to Utica from our pleasant excursion to Trenton Falls and the 
Thousand Islands, we resume our western route, passing through Oneida, 
Chittenango and Manlius to — 

Syracuse, 148 miles from Albany, the most flourishing and enterprising 
city of Central New York. The Vanderbilt House is the finest hotel in the 
city. 

Syracuse is- the centre of the salt interest of the State. The principal rail- 
road connections are with Binghamton and Oswego. 

Watkins Glen, by the Seneca Lake Steam Navigation Co., or at Canandai- 
gua by the Northern Central Railway. A direct route from New York is via 
the Erie Railroad to Elmira and thence via Northern Central Railroad. Wat- 
kins Glen stands among summer resorts like a lyric among poems. It 
takes a firm hold upon our affections. As the Indians said of the State of 
Alabama — ''here we rest''— -so the tourist might well adopt their expres- 
sive phrase when he reaches this charming glen. This very valuable tract 
is the "exclusive" property of Mr. A. J. Michener, of Philadelphia, one 

137 



k 



EXCELLENT SUMMER READING. 



A ROMAN SINGER. 

A Novel. By F. Marion Crawford, author of "Mr. Isaacs," "Dr. Claudius,' 
and "To Leeward." $1.25. 

"Of all Mr. Crawford's works the most interesting, captivating, and masterly 
is 'A Roman Singer.'" — \^The Week (Toronto.) 

"Marvelous for its freshness, vivacity and vivid portrayal of Italian life, the 
best work and the highest flight of fancy Mr. Crawford has yet reached." — \^Prov- 
idence Journal. 

A COUNTRY DOCTOR. 

A Novel. By Sarah Orne Jewp:tt, author of " Deephaven," " The Mate of the 
Daylight," etc. I1.25. 

Miss Jewett is one of the best of the younger American writers. Her stories 
are always thoroughly interesting and wholesome. 



PH(EBE. 

A. Novel. By the author of " Rutledge." .I1.25. j 

An American story in characters and incidents, told with so much life and 
spirit that it will be hailed as a special boon by novel readers. To a multitudej 
looking for summer reading, this story needs no other recommendation than that 
it is by the author of " Rutledge." 



THE AMERICAN HORSEWOMAN. 

By Elizaiiktii Karr. Illustrated. $2 00. 

An admirably practical book. The selection and management of a horse, all 
the details cf equipment, every separate article of dress that the rider should 
wear, and the making of i^ — all these are described specifically ; and the book is 
made still more useful by illustrative cuts, the whole forming a manual of great 
•value to any lady who would become thoroughly skillful in the equestrian art. 

■••"....""/•(>;- salt; by all hoflk.wlL'rs. Sriif hy Jiiail, poslpai,l. on irrript of price hyllu 
J^iihlis/iors. 

HDUGHTDN, MIFFLIN I CD., BDBTDN. 



of its former owners ; and we congratulate him and the public that he has 
obtained the control of both the hotel and glen. The hotel, the only one con- 
nected with this charming spot, occupies an elevation about 300 feet above the 
level of the lake. It is capable of accommodating about 250 guests, has been 
greatly enlarged, and is unexcelled for its neatness and general management. 
It is the determination of the new proprietor that every arrangement tending 
to the comfort, convenience, and amusement of his guests, shall be found 
here, and that persons seeking health, comfort, or pleasure, will find this a 
most desirable spot for a sojourn during the heated term. 

The glen is situated near the head of Seneca Lake, between two ranges of 
mountains, which seem to have been torn asunder in its formation. It con- 
sists properly of a number of glens or sections, rising one above another, form- 
ing a series of rocky arcades, galleries, and grottoes, subterranean at times, 
and again widening out into vast amphitheatres, the grandeur and magnifi- 
cence of which are indescribable. The general course is east and west, extend- 
ing three miles, covering an area of about five hundred acres, with a total as- 
cent of eight hundred feet. It forms the channel for a limpid stream which 
follows its eccentric course, making the descent from section to section by a 
myriad of cascades and rapids, the beauty and variety of which are unequaled. 

One evening, not long ago, I had the pleasure of visiting the glen, and I know 
of no hotel that has a location so picturesque and poetic. I remember walking 
out upon the bridge and looking down among the shadows of the cliffs, and 
hstening to the stream two hundred feet below. I remember, as if it were 
yesterday, being lulled to sleep by the unchanging but untiring music of fall- 
ing water. I remember the kind hospitality of the proprietor. But this was 
only the foretaste of the pleasure that was reserved for the next day, when I 
" did the glen thoroughly" from end to end. It is impossible at this time to 
recall the names of all the amphitheatres and cascades in their order, but they 
will all be found in a finely illustrated and descriptive local Guide. As Grace 
Greenwood has well said, in a letter to the New York Tribune, in speaking of 
the glen : ' ' We go leagues out of our way in foreign travel to see things far 
less worth seeing. Watkins Glen suggests Vaucluse in the pellucid clearness 
and sparkle of its water ; but instead of the dreary, blasted height above Pe- 
trarch's ' Fountain,' we have variegated, mossy, ferny rocks, the most lush 
and lovely foliage, and wild flowers in profusion. It faintly suggests the som- 
bre, magnificent Pass of the Finsterrhtinz, in the Tyrol, but is infinitely bright- 
er and more varied. It suggests Trenton Falls, but is wilder and deeper. Most 
of all it suggests Bash-Bish, in old Berkshire — is, indeed, very like it — but is 
yet more picturesque and perilous." 

139 



/ m 




The pure air of this mountainous region is conducive to health, and calcu- 
lated to build up and reinvigorate the invalid ; and for nervousness and sleep- 
lessness this delicious tonic, accompanied by the lullaby of the waterfalls in 
the glen, is a most healthful soporific. 

There are good roads over vrhich pleasure-seekers can enjoy delightful 
drives through this undulating and picturesque country, interyperbed with 
beautiful lakes and glens, the nearest and most attractive of the foruibr bfing 
Seneca Lake, forty miles long, and varying in width from one and a half to 
five miles, and which is within half a mile of the entrance to Watkins Glen. 
The shores of this remarkably interesting body of water are li^-ed on either 
side with neat and pretty villages, well-tilled farms, large and valuable vine- 
yards producing every variety of grape, cozy letreats, immense w^aterfalls, 
high bridges, etc. 

At a distance of about three and a half miles is Havana Glen, a beautiful 
and interesting freak of nature, considered so well worthy a visit that a coach 
to carry tourists from the Glen Mountain House, to explore its marvellous 
beauties, leaves twice each daj^ returning in time to connect with all trains 
and steamers. 

Resuming our western trip, the next point of interest is — 

Rochester, the finest city of Western New York, and, in many particulars, 
the finest in the state. It is now especially attractive to the tourist, for it is 
the happy possessor of one of the most superb hotels on the continent — the 
new Powers Hotel. We doubt if there is between the tw^o oceans a more com- 
plete and attractive hotel, when we take into account the Powers Block, the 
Powers Hotel, and the Powers Art Gallery, so connected and arranged that 
they are practically one building. 

The building contains over three hundred rooms, is 1 60 feet on Main Street, 
and has an average depth of 161 feet ; so we may say that the hotel is 161 feet 
square. It is seven stories high, including pavilions— one in the centre and 
one on each corner of the principal front. The plan of the building is sub- 
stantially a hollow square, with court in centre, the lower part having a glass 
roof, covering what is called " The Exchange," or hotel office. This exchange 
is 65 by 75 feet, including the grand staircase with elegant Tennessee marble 
wainscoating and Italian marble flooring. It is in the centre of the building, 
and may quite properly be called the " hub," as all the principal rooms seem 
to radiate from it. The principal entrance to " The Exchange," or office, is 
from Main Street, and is sixteen feet wide and sixty feet long, with attractive 
and unique porticos. The reception-rooms, the dining-rooms, the sleeping- 
rooms are elegantly furnished. Messrs. Buck & Sanger, the successful mana- 

141 



THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 



r: 



xy 



THE CROSSMON. 



£ 



HIS large House has been refurnished since last 
fir season. 

It contains an ELEVATOR, BATH ROOMS 

with hot and cold water on every floor, and is lighted 
throughout with gas. 

Send for an ILLUSTRATED CIRCULAR, con- 
taining a short history of the Thousand Islands. 



Address, 

C. CROSSMON & SON, 

jilexandria Baj, K Y. 



gers for four years of the old Osburn House, had an undisputed claim upon 
the new " Powers," and the hotel rightly rejoices in their management. They 
have furnished the hoUse at their own expense, and have done it consistently 
with the elaborate worKmanship of the hotel itself. The directors of the 
company show that the great enterprise enlisted the best men of Rochester, 
viz. : D. W. Powers, Patrick Barry, George Ellwanger, Joseph Curtis, B. D. 
McAlpine, S. D. Walbridge, Samuel Wilder, Asa T. Soule, E. H. Vredenburg, 
Charles J. Burke, Frederick Cook, A. S. Mann, J. DeWitt Butts. 




Absolutely FiVe^proof. 

POWERS HOTEL. 
BUCK & SANGER, PROPRIETORS. 



The hotel is thoroughly fire-proof. It is so thoroughly built in this regard 
;hat no insurance is required. There are several hotels in the country adver- 
;ised as thoroughly fire-proof ; this is the only one that we know of which en- 
iorses its own advertisement by saying, " We desire no insurance." Roches- 
;er can indeed feel proud of her new achievement. One thing is sure : No 
Derson who visits this hotel will accuse us of exaggerating its merits. 

Chautauqua.— From Rochester, or Watkins Glen, one of the pleasantest 
;rips that can suggest itself is- an excursion to Chautauqua. The lake is nine 
niles south from Lake Erie, and 750' feet above it. It is midway between 
^ew York and Chicago ; three hours' ride by rail from Buffalo ; five hours' 
Tom Cleveland ; nine hours' from Pittsburgh ; fourteen hours' from Cincin- 

143 



nati ; sixteen from Philadelphia ; eighteen from New York ; nineteen fror 
Baltimore ; twenty from Washington ; twenty-one from Chicago, and twenty 
two hours' from St. Louis. Its elevation is fourteen hundred feet above th 
ocean. The lake is about twenty miles in length, and steamboats " first-class 
pass over it almost hourly, touching at all points, and connecting at eithe 
end with all trains of the different railroads. The public and private build 
ings alike show the enterprise of the founders. 







CHAUTAUQUA LAKE. 



What is the hotel Atheneum 9 The hotel Atheneum was completed last year, 
at a cost of $125,000. Its plan and its administration are, like all the other 
attractions, unique. Large and imposing as the stnicture is to outside appear- 
ance, yet, owing to the peculiar conformation of the ground, not one of ite 
floors, except those of the tower, are more than a single flight of stairs from 

144 



a ground-floor entrance. It is supplied with gas, electric lights, electric bells, 
elevator, baths, telegraph office, news-stand, barber shop, etc. It is safe to 
say that there is not in the country a hotel building so well arranged for expe- 
ditious and economical management, and for the comfort and convenience of 
its guests, as the Hotel Atheneum. 

Tlie effect of this well-appointed, brilliantly-lighted hostelry, with its throng 
of guests, in the midst of the primeval forest, is itself unparalleled. It is, in 
fact, metropolitan life in the woods, and enables its guests to enjoy all the 
comforts of civilization, while roughing it in the forest. The sojourner at 
Chautauqua is offered a combination of privileges, such as never before were 
brought together in one place ; field and aquatic sports ; contact with Nature 




MODEL OF HOLY LAND. 

in her loveliest forms ; intellectual and artistic entertainments of unusual 
amount, variety and quality ; opportunity for pure rest, hard study, or for 
a happy medium ; sanitary conditions better than exist in any city or pleasure 
resort on the continent ; regulations as to order of the highest moral tone ; 
and a first-class hotel ; and all at rates lower than those charged elsewhere for 
first-class hotel board alone, and without any of these expensive attractions. 
Indeed, if all that is furnished for a given sum be counted, nothing like the 
cheapness of Chautauqua life w^as ever known. 

There are several hundred cottages on the grounds, some of them very beau- 
tiful and capacious. Among the interesting models, we mention the " Model 
of the Holy Land," three hundred feet in length, lying on the border of Chau- 
tauqua Lake, which represents the Mediterranean Sea ; a "Model of the Jew- 

145 ■ 



ish Tabernacle ;" Wythe's " Model of Jerusalem ;" a section of the Great Pyr- 
amid, etc. 

The museum contains a magnificent cast of one of the two great panels of 
the Arch of Titus, at Rome, also of the Moabite Stone, the Siloara Inscription, 
the Assyrian Winged Bnll, and Winged Lion, with other important and costly 
additions ; beautiful photographs of Egypt with Western Asia Inscription — 
rare volumes — from the British Museum; Assyrian Statuettes, a full collec- 
tion of clothing of Moslem, Bedouin Sheikhs and Arab women, etc., etc. 

The Chautauqua Literary Scientific Circle Scheme, (more generally known 
as the " C. L. S. C.) consists of a four years' course of reading and study, so 
planned as to embrace the principal subjects of the College curriculum. The 
subjects are so arranged that all the four classes jmrsue them the same year ; 
so that the same subjects constitute the studies of the first year of one class, 
and of the second year of another class, and so on. The flexibility of the plan 
is such that it admits either individual or associated study. Others find it 
helpful to unite in " Local Circles," which now aggregate almost a thousand, 
and are (^f all sizes, from three members to several hundred. 

The recreations and attractions at Chautauqua are rowing, fishing, sailing, 
batliing, roller-skating, stereopticon exhibitions, the illuminated fleet, the elec- 
tric fountain, beautiful fireworks, fascinating lectures, superior concerts, the 
Athenian watch fires, the children's camp-fire, pic-nics, German camp-fire, 
and the grounds and woods lighted at night by the electric light, etc., etc. It 
is, in brief, a live intellectual institution, the pulse of whose heart throb is felt 
in almost every township in our country. The " acorn of an idea," planted a 
few years ago among the groves of Chautauqua, by Hon. Lewis Miller and Dr. 
J. H. Vincent, is already a vigorous oak. In William A. Duncan, recently 
elected as Superintendent of the Grounds, and Secretary of the Hotel Com- 
pany, Chautauqua has a dcToted, generous, and faithful supporter, 
j The Monthly Chautauquan, published by the Rev. Mr. Flood, Meadville, Pa., 
Is an ably-conducted magazine ; and the Daily Chautauquan, also published 
by him during the summer session at the lake, mirrors accurately each day's 
proceedings. 

; All hail, Chautauqua ! May thy influence continually widen and spread ! 
I From Chautauqua, as our map indicates, there are several pleasant routes 
to Buffalo and — 

Niagara Falls. — We have spoken of the Empire State as being rich in nat- 
ural beauty. The State is full of the quaintest angles and bay-windows. Na- 
ture seemed to have the design all her own way, and it seems as if Chautau. 
fjua and Niagara Falls were beautiful pictures set up, as it were, on easels here 

' 147 



HARPER'S PERIODICALS. 



HARPERS MAGAZINE. 

An orchard of choice fruits and a garland of beauteous flowers. 
—N. Y. Sim. 

HARPER'S WEEKLY. 

Harper's Weekly is not excelled by any like publication in 
this or any other country. — Boston Transcript. 

HARPERS BAZAR. 

Harper's Bazar is a repository of current thought, event, and 
society, on which labor and capital have both expended their best 
efforts. — Observer^ N. V. 

HARPERS YOUNG PEOPLE. 

Harpers Young People has come to be the leading paper 
for juvenile readers. — Troj/ Budget. 



HARPER'S PERIODICALS FOR 1854. 

Harper's Magazine, one year $4-oo 

Harper's Weekly, one year, 4-oo 

Harper's Bazar, one year, 4-oo 

Harper's Young People, one year, .... 2.00 

Address, HARPER & BROTHERS, 

Franklin SquarCf Netv York, 



md there in the corners to fill out the plan. And, while we delight in the 
;ood management and enterprise of Chautauqua, we also delight in the fact 
;hat the State of New York has respect for Niagara Falls, and contemplates 
jonverting it into an elegant park. 

During the last two years the surroundings of the Falls have been greatly 
mproved on the American side, and a fine park enclosed, and laid out in 
valks. It was quite the thing to do, and the improvement is worth more 
;han the extra quarter the owner demands. It is now secure, even for child- 
•en and absent-minded lovers. The walled battlements present safe stand- 
points which command the finest views. This project at first created quite a 
jensation among the rural people near Niagara, but now it is universally con- 
jeded to be a great benefit, especially to tourists and travelers who appreciate 
:he comforts of civilized life. 

The American Fall (900 feet across, 164 feet high) is only a short distance 
;rom the village. We have seen pictures of these Falls, from Church's master- 
piece to the hastily engraved cut of a guide-book. We all have an idea how 
ihe Falls look, but they never speak to us until we have looked over that deep 
ibyss, and up the stream which ever i-ushes on, like an army to battle, and 
iown the crowded chasm, where the black waters have worn their passage, 
:lu:ough the silent, unknown centuries. One-eighth of a mile below these 
Falls is the new Suspension Bridge, the longest in the world — 1300 feet in 
length, the towers 100 feet high, and cables 1800 feet long. This carriage and 
foot-way was long needed, and now not only presents a fine view of the Falls 
from every standpoint, but affords the most convenient route to the views on 
the Canada side. It was opened to the public January 4th, 1869. Goat Island, 
the natural Central Park of the Falls, is connected with the American side by 
I bridge. The area of the island is about sixty acres. In our hasty sketch we 
m\l, however, only name the places to be visited, leavftig the description to 
;he local guide books. The Cave of the Winds, with its magnificent curtain 
Df changing beauty, the Rainbow, the Whirlpool Rapids, reached by the Dou- 
ble Elevator. This is one of the points about Niagara to be seen. It was only 
ast season that we added it to our Niagara Bill of Fare, and we wish to em- 
phasize its wild beauty and grandeur. 

Terrapin Bridge and Prospect Tower overlook Horse Shoe Falls (about 1,900 
feet wide, and 158 feet high). On the Canada side the principal points of in- 
terest are Table Rock and the broad Causeway, where one can feel all the 
»lory of Niagara, and where Mrs. Sigourney wrote those expressive lines — 



I 



" God has set 
His rainbow on thy forehead, and the clouds 
Mantled around thy feet." 

149 



Burning Spring is about a mile above Table Rock, near the river edge. Not 
far from this the battle of Chippewa was fought, July 5, 1814. And also, a . 
mile and a-half from the falls, is the battle ground of Lundy's Lane. The 
Susj^ension Bridges, two miles below, are triumphs in art ; the Whirlpool is 
about a mile below these bridges. Many writers have attempted to describe 
Niagara, but in every description there is something lacking. We can give its 
dimensions, its height and breadth, and point out the places to be seen ; but 
there is a Unity about Niagara which can only be felt. It makes one wish 
that David could have seen it, and added a new chapter to the Psalms. 

Some tourists have avoided Niagara on account of alleged various imposi- 
tions. But a few precautions will insure him against annoyances. As to car- 
riages, if needed, make a clear bargain with the driver. If this is duly ob- 
served, there need be no fear of imposition, at least on the American side. 
We have seen some strange and really funny things on the Canadian side. 
We have in mind one individual fleeing from the coming wrath of an exorbL 
tant hackman, and the driver in hot pursuit. We will also say : Mark out 
your Une of travel for the day, and don't be gulle'd by useless museums. 

One of the bright, spicy Guide-Book men of the St. Lawrence presents a 
" fifty-cent" plan for visiting the Falls, which we copy verbatim, for its wit 
and point : 

Stop at Buffalo at the Tifft House, and after breakfast take the train for 
Niagara Falls. '* Arriving at the depot, pass out the front door. Here you 
must not be only deaf but dumb, and pay no attention to anyone, but turn to 
the right and proceed down the street until you come to the entrance to the 
Prospect Park ; turn to the right and the walk will lead you to the new Sus- 
pension Bridge. Pay your fare over (which is twenty-five cents), enjoy all 
the sights of the Falls and river while crossing, and when you arrive on the 
Canada side you are still deaf and dumb, remember. Proceed down the road- 
way on the left to the bed of the river ; there you take the ferryboat, by pay- 
ing twenty-five cents more, which lands you on the American shore. You 
can take the inclined railroad to the top of the bank, and you are in Prospect 
Park. Look this delightful spot all over, and when it is time, pass out of the 
centre gate and proceed to the depot, where the train in waiting will take you 
back to Buffalo in time for dinner." 

The expense of Niagara is, therefore, reduced to a minimum ; and we are 
sure there is not fifty cents worth of better scenery on the continent. 



150 



■sA. 



p 



LIST OF ADVERTISEMENTS. 



Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute 1 

Bryant Literary Union 1 

Travelers Insurance Co 2 

Overlook Mountain House 48 

Tremper House 50 

Hotel Kaaterskill 57 

Irving House, Catskill, N. Y 63 

Catskill Mountain House 65 

Delaware & Hudson Canal Co.'s R. R 76, 78 

United States Hotel, Saratoga Springs, N.Y 80, 82 

The Adelphi, Saratoga Springs, N.Y 84 

The American, Saratoga Springs, N.Y 86 

Congress Spring Mineral Water 91 

Adirondack Company's Railroad 92 

Lake House, Lake George, N. Y 100 

Lake View House, Ausable Chasm, N.Y 108 

Windsor Hotel, Montreal 118 

Appletons' Guide Books 119 

Pavilion Hotel, Howe's Cave, N.Y 120 

New York, West Shore & Buffalo Railway. 127 

Remington Armory 128 

Houghton, Mifflin & Co 138 

The Crossmon, Thousand Islands 140, 142 

Powers Hotel, Rochester, N. Y.. 143 

Harper's Periodicals 148 

The Tifft House, Buffalo, N. Y 152 

Kennard House, Cleveland, O 153 

Seventh Avenue Hotel, Pittsburgh, Pa 154 

St Denis Hotel and Restaurant, New York. . 155 

Cosmopolitan Hotel, New York...., 156 

Grand Union Hotel, New York 157 

Brevoort House, New York 158 

The Delavan, Albany, N.Y 159 

Morgan House, Poughkeepsie, N. Y 160 



PAGE. 

United States Hotel, Newburgh, N. Y 161 

Mansion House, Albany, N.Y .. .. 162 

Ocean House, Newport, R 1 163 

The Continental, Philadelphia, Pa 164 

Wissahickon Inn, Philadelphia, Pa 165 

The Vendome, Boston, Mass 166, 167 

Profile House, White Mountains 168, 169 

West Point Hotel, West Point 170 

West Point Stages 170 

Drs. Strong's Remedial Institute, Saratoga.. 171 
Hygienic and Turkish Bath Hotel, N. Y... . 172 
Utica & Black River R. R.Back of Map and 173 

Rondout Line of Steamboats 174 

Catskill Line Steamers 175 

New Haven Steamers 176 

Citizens' Steamboat Company 177 

Erie Railway 178 

Catskill Mountain Railroad 179 

Albany Day Line Steamers , 180 

Devlin & Co 181 

Lovell's Library 182 

The Frank Leslie Publications 183 

The Baldwin House, Newburgh, N. Y 184 

The Century Magazine 185 

Loeffler's Celebrated Views 186 

Rogers' Groups . . _. 187 

Excelsior and Clipper Lawn Mower 188 

Fairbanks' Standard Scales 189 

Adriance, Piatt & Co 190 

White Mountains and Lake Resorts, back of Map 

Steinway & Sons back of Map 

Fall River Line back of Map 

M. Miller, Optical Goods 1st Inside Cover 

Tarrant & Co 3d Inside Cover 



L 



TIFFT HOUS^, PUFFAUa K Y. 

E. D. TUTHILL * SON, Proprietors, 



Buffalo has a fine commercial location at the foot of Lake 
Erie, on the main line of the New York Central Railroad, (an 
hour's run from Niagara), with six railroads centering in the city. 
Its main streets and thoroughfares are well laid out, and the fine 
buildings show enterprise and prosperity. 

The Tifft House, on Main street, is by far the finest hotel in 
the city, and by right of excellence forms a link in the chain of 
the best hotels herein indicated from New York to Chicago. 

From Niagara tourists may make the round trip to Montreal, 
Lake Champlain, Lake George, and Saratoga, or the still longer 
round trip to Montreal, the Green and White Mountains, and so 
to New York, via Portland and Boston. Tourists taking either 
of these trips have tzco routes to Montreal — one via the Grand 
Trunk Railroad, the other via boat down the Lake and St. Law- 
rence. The rapids and Islands arc interesting features of the 
route, as indicated in our description of the Thousand Islands. 



KENNARD HOUSE. 

D. McCLASKY, Proprietor. 



I 



Cleveland. — The routes to the Great West via the Hudson 
Day Boats, the West Shore Railroad, or the New York Central, 
pass through no finer city or none more interesting to the 
traveler. It was originally settled by persons from New Haven, 
and we see the mother's beauty inherited by her fair daughter ; 
in fact, the public squares and noble avenues are the finest in 

I the land. The tourist should make this his resting-place on 
the way to Chicago, and take a drive on " Euclid Avenue." 
This avenue is pronounced by many travelers the finest in the 

I world. For two miles it presents an unbroken vista of all 
that is pleasant in trees, shrubbery, and architecture. The 
drive to the Cemetery and the outlook from that point upon 
Lake Erie are well worthy a visit. 

The finest hotel is the Kennard House, where the traveler 
will find everything for his comfort and convenience. It is a 
first-class house in every particular. The only Hotel in Cleve- 
land with an elevator, and its popular proprietor is known 
from New York to San Francisco. 



SEVENTH AVENUE HOTEL, PITTSBURG. 

ELIAS J. UNGER, Proprietor. 

Pittsburg. — In connection with Buffalo and Cleveland, we 
do not regard it out of place to introduce another western 
outpost, viz., Pittsburg — 248 miles from Harrisburg, 345 from 
Philadelphia, 444 from New York. This city was incorporated 
as a borough in 1804, and a city charter was granted in 18 16. 
Steam navigation in 181 1 made her the centre of a large 
trade, and her fjrowth was sure even before she was known 
as the Iron City. Allegheny City, on the west side of the 
Allegheny River, is connected with Pittsburg by three fine 
bridges. The city reminds one something of Glasgow, and is 
still beautiful, though smoke-stained by the soft coal here 
used in the iron works and in private residences. It is said 
there is no more healthful city in America. The public 
buildings are numerous and imposing. The educational facili- 
ties good, and in every particular deserves to rank second to 
Philadelphia. The best hotel is the Seventh Avenue Hotel. 
It is centrally located, only five minutes' walk from the 
depot, and is now flourishing under the care and direction of 
a well-known and deservedly popular landlord, formerly of 
the Keystone Hotel Company. 



WILLIAM TAYLOR'S 

St. Benis Hotel I Restaurant 



r 



K 




Broa^\vay, corner of Eleventh Street, 

pqElW ^OKK. 

The location of this hotel is the most central in the city, of easy access from all the principal 
depots and ferries, being especially convenient to all the leading retail stores and places of amuse- 
ment. The Hotel has been very much improved by the addition of a first-class 

PASSENGER ELEVATOR. 

THE ROOMS ARK COMMODIOUS AND AVELL VENTILATED, 
AND EVERY DEPARTMENT OF THE HOUSE AMPLY PROTECTED 

AGAINST FIRE. 

The Restaurant which, under the name of 

has acquired a National reputation, is conducted in connection with the Hotel, and special care is 
always taken to preserve its excellent Cuisine, and reasonable prices. 

WILLIAM TAYLOR, Proprietor. 




COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL, 



ETJ:E^o:PE^s^Is^ :pij^°^3^. 



Cor. Chambers St, and West Broadway, H. Y. 
FIRST-CLASS ACG9MM09ATI0}4S FOR 400 GUESTS. 



This Hotel has been recently fitted up for the comfort, 
and convenience of its G*jests. 



safety, 



It is centrally located, the principal City Railways pass the door, is five minutes' walk of the New 
Jersey Central, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Lackawanna and Western, and Erie Railroads, all Hudson 
River Steamboats ; within fifteen minutes' ride of Grand Central Depot and^Central Park by Elevated 
Railroad. From Albany Day Boats, take West St. cars to Chambers St., two blocks from Hotel. 
An Otis Brothers' Elevator carries guests to every floor, rendering all rooms easy of access. The 
house contains a Barber's Shop with range of Baths, a Railroad Ticket Ottice, where Tickets may 
be obtained at the same prices as at the depots, a Billiard Room, and a News' Office for the sale of 
Daily and Weekly Papers, Periodicals, Etc. Rooms, $ 1 .OO per Day, and upwards. 

Rooms, for tw^o, $1.50 per day and upwards, according to Liocation of Rooms. 

N. & S. J. HUGGINS, Proprietors. 

FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT, AT POPULAR PRICES 



2, ST. D-o 1,1 



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S- p ^ P — — 
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^BREVOORT. HOUSE. 



nSTeax" "^ATasItLxng-boxi. S(3_-ULai'©, 

New York. 



A qtiict Hotel, with a Rest duraiit of peculiar excellence ; its patrons 
are of the best families of this country and Etirope. 



Proprietor. 







B Bf & ji 



l^A 



I 



ALBANY, N. Y. 




Tlie Largest and Best Hotel in Albany. 

§^^ 

Near the New York Central and Hudson River, Boston and 
j Albany, Delaware and Hudson, and all other Railways. 

T. ROESELlLE & SON, 




Morgan House, 

POUGHKEEPSIE, N. Y. 
4- 



In the heart of the City — Corner of Main and Academy Streets. 

+ 

Horse-cars from Day-Boat Landing, and from Hudson River and Poughkeepsie 
and Eastern Depots pass the door of the Hotel. 



J. C. GRIGGS, 



Proprietor. 



Tourists will find the Morgan House the most conuenint and the pleasantest in the City. 



f 



iMJfii if if IS Iff la, 

.4,0 a^ Sm: ^. 

NEWBURGH, N. Y. 



f 



THOMAS DARCY, Proprietor. 



\The only First-Class Hotel in Newhurgh. Accommodations for 200 

Guests. Situated near the Steamboat Landing. Newly 

Rebuilt and Newly Furnished. In full view of the 

Hudson River. Only Six Blocks from 

Washington's Headquarters. 



Passengers have time to take dinner and return by afternoon Steamer. 

Dinner served on arrival of all Steamers. First-class in all its appointments, 
jmd at popular prices. 

\ The excursionist, in taking dinner at this Hotel, will have an opportunity to 
aijoy the Hudson Highlands and the beautiful Bay of Newburgh. 



CnrnEr Broadway and Hudann Ayehub, 



9 



W. THOMPSON, .... Proprietor. 



One Block and a-half from Steamboat Landing, 

And on the direct route to all the Railroad Depots, which are only one and a half blocks north o! 

the House. You do not need to take any of the so called " Free Omnibuses "; 

we are so near the Depots and Boats we need no Omnibus. 



Our Terms are only $2 per day— not $3 or $4— and on settlin; 

your bills there are no ** extras" for Omnibus 

Fare or Porters. 



The Proprietor will spare no pains to make the traveling pul)lic comfortable, and the Houi-t 
home-like, and those who desire a comfortable and pleasant stopping-place will find it at tl 
House. 

The Proprietor only desires to accommodate tliose who desire a good, substantial Hotel ana 
pleasant Rooms, as the price will intimate— not those who prefer show to comfort. 

This House has been newly furnished and refitted throughout, and in connection will be found 

Barber-Shop, Billiards, Bath-Room and Bar. 



WARM SUPPER FOR FIFTY CENTS 

On the arrival of the Boat, and ample time left to reach 
SARATOGA and NIAGARA TRAINS. 



I 



OCEAN HOUSE, 

Sewport, % I. 



JOHN G. WEAVER & SONS, 



F:RCDF:Eix:ErroTi&. 



OPENS JUNE 25, 1884. 



Ti3:ii^T^r-3Sri:isrT:E3: SE.^sonsr. 



Within One Hundred Feet of the 
New Casino. 



OSTON^S ^ f ALATIAL-:^:- lOTEL, 




a. g. ^. 



wommonwealtr) Wvenue and Oartmoutr) C^tneet. 



in- the ^jctczioz-y ^feaavit in- tue Sn^tettor, 



/r /5 THOROUGHLY FIRE-PROOF. 



J . W. WOLCOTT, 

Proprietor. 



Profile House, 

FRANCONIA NOTCH, WHITE MOUNTAINS N. H, 



TAFT & GREENLEAF, Proprietoix 

Open from June 20th to October ist, 

Post-office Address: Profile House, N. H. 



How to Keach the Profile House — All-rail, and throu^'h in one day from Boston 
Newport, New York. Saratoga, Lake George. Montreal, (Quebec, Portland, etc. ; via Profile & 
Franconia Notch R. R from Bethlehem Junction ; or by DAILY STAGES via P'hime House to 
new Pemigewasset Valley R. R. at North Woodstock, ten miles distant. 

Observation Wagons through the Notch Twice Daily 

-FOR- 

Old Mai] of the iy[ounto, Flume, pool, Ba^iq 

AND ALL POINTS OF INTEREST. 

Guests, by taking the morning train on the Profile & Franconia Notch 
Raih'oad, can visit the summit of Mt. Washington, or go through the White 
Mountain Notch to North Conway, or visit Jefferson or Bethlehem, and 
returning, reach Profile House by rail same day. 

Good Bridle and Foot Paths to the summit of Lafayette, Cannon and Bald 
Mountains ; also, pleasant walks to the Cascade and Echo and Profile Lakes. 
Upon Echo Lake a small Steamer, and upon both Lakes safe row-boats, can 
be had. 

The Stables are supplied with the Best of Livery and Saddle Horses, 



WEST POINT HOTEL, 

(GOVERNMENT HOUSE), 

The only Hotel on the Post, and open 
throughout the year. 

ALBERT H. CRANEY. 

WEST POIHT STAGES. 

J. DENTON & SON, Proprietors. 

Fare to and from Hotel and Grounds, 

HEADQUARTERS AT THE WEST POINT HOTEL 




DRS, STRONG'9 R^M^DIAU IN6TITUT^, 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. 

POPULAR SUMMER RESORT. Open all the Year. Receives patients or hoarders 
permanent or transient. Location very pleasant, quiet, and within five minutes' walk of the large 
hotels, principal springs, Congress Park, and other sources of attraction. Desirable rooms, exten- 
sive piazzas, ample grounds. Table and appointments first-class. 

The batii department i? complete and elegant, affording the only Turkish, Russian, Roman 
and Electro-thermal Baths in Saratoga. 

Genial, cultured society and a pleasant home are always found here. It is the resort of many 
eminent persons for rest and recreation. Among its patrons and references are Rev. Theo. L. Cut- 
ler, D.D., Brooklyn: Rev. Ohas. F. Deems, D.D ,N Y.; Rev. C. C. "Chaplain^' McCabe, Chicago; 
Bishops Simpson and Robertson; Hon. F. C. Sessions. Columbus, O.; J. M. Phillips, M. E. Book 
Concern, N. Y.; Jas. McCREERr, N. Y.. Ex-Gov's Wells, (Va.), Page, (Vt.); Preset Russell D. 
Hitchcock, Union Theol. Sem.; T. Sterry, LL.D., Montreal; Judges Reynolds, (Brooklyn), 
Drake, (Washington), Bliss, (Mo.); Med. Profs. Armor, (Brooklyn), Ross, (Chicago), Knapp, 
(N. Y.); Miss Frances E. Willard, and many others equally known 

The Institute is rendered specially attractive to its guests by frequent entertamments of varied 
character. There is no appearance of invalidism. The remedial and hotel interests in no way 
interfere, patients receiving every care and attention. 

The proprietors are "regular" physicians, graduates of the Medical Department University of 
the City of New York. The Institute is endorsed and largely patronized by the medical profession. 
In addition to the ordinary remedial agents available in general practice, are used suchsp-cial appli- 
ances as Turkish, Russian, Roman, Electro-thermal, and a great variety of Hydropathic Batus ; trai- 
vanic and Paradic Electricity, Vacuum Treatment, Movement Cure, Compressed Air, Uxygen and 
Medicated Inhalations, Health Lift. Calisthenics, and the numerous Mineral Waters. 

The Institute is the largest and best in Saratoga, and one of the most complete in its appoint- 
ments in the country. Information cheerfully furnished, SEJSD FOR CIRCULAR. 



Hygienic and Turkish Bath Hotel, 

13 and 15 LAIGHT STREET, 



T1V0 blocks from the Grand Street Station 
of the Elevated Railroad. 



NEW YORK. 



There are Six Lines of Horse Cars passing near the Door. 



Only two minutes' walk from where this boat lands. Passengers can 
reach this House, on arriving in New York on the Albany Steamers, m 
two minutes, by going up Desbrosses street to Canal, up Canal to Laight 
street, when they will see the House, only a few doors from the corner. 
Tliey can get Dmner from 6 to 7, and Turkish Bath as late as 9 o'clock, 
for fifty cents, which will be very refreshing after a long journey, and good 
rooms at fair prices. 

This well-known House is convenient of access from all parts of the city, 
and is now in excellent condition, having just been repaired and refurnished. 

The House is noted for its pleasant parlors, and the cheerful home-like 
feeling that prevails. The rooms are well lighted, and the prices are 
moderate. 

It is a temperance House, and the home of temperance people. 
The Hotel Department is always open for the reception of transient 
and permanent guests. 

A large and excellent Turkish Bath is in connection with the Hotel, 
open for ladies and gentlemen, where guests may take Baths, receive 
Massage, Oil Baths, and Electrical Treatment for health or pleasure. 
Those suffering from rheumatic affections, malarial diseases and other ail- 
ments, such as are benefitted by these baths, may receive careful treat- 
ment at moderate expense. 

M. L. HOLBROOK, M. D. 

Proprietor. 



THE FAVORITE ROUTE FOR FASHIONABLE PLEASURE TRAVEL. 

UTICA k BLACK EIYER RAILROAD, 

The Only all Rail Route to the Thousand Islands, 

AND SHORTEST AND QUICKEST ROUTE FROM EASTERN POINTS. 

TO ALL POINTS IN 

Northern New York, the River St. Lawrence and Canada, 

CONNECTING AT 

CLAYTON, ALEXANDRIA BAY, BROCKVILLE AND PRESCOTT 

WITH THE 

ST. LAWRENCE STEAMBOAT COMPANY, PALACE DAY STEAMERS FOR MONTREAL, &C. 

Passing the Thousand Islands and Rapids of the River St. Lawrence 
BY DAYLIGHT. 

For Maps and Connections, see pages on the back of the Hudson River Map. 

Wagner Sleeping Car attached to train, leaving Grand Central Depot, New York, at 9.00 P M ; 
Albany, 1.50 A. M.; arriving at Watertown. 9.20 A. M.; Clayton, 10.00 A.M.: Alexandria Bay, 
10.00 A. M. ; O.gdensburg, 11.00 A. M. Breakfast, Lowville, 7.30 A. M. 

Time by this Train, New York to Alexandria, 14 hours, or over 3 hours quicker than via any 
other route. 

The new fast train with Wagner Drawing Room Car, Albany to Clayton, leaves Albany 9.10 
A. M.: dine at Utica, 12.00 M.; arrives at Clayton, 3.55 P. M. Few stops, quick train, expressly for 
Tourist travel. No change of cars between Utica and Clayton, 

WAGNER'S PALACE SLEEPING CARS RUN THROUGH WITHOUT ANY CHANGE OR 

DELAY BETWEEN 

NEW YORK AND CLAYTON (Thousand Islands.) 

WAGNER'S SUPERB DRAWING ROOM CARS RUN THROUGH WITHOUT CHANGE 
BETWEEN ALBANY AND CLAYTON. 

This Route is noted for its magnificent Scenery, including the wonderful 

TRENTON FALLS AND LYONS' FALLS. 

Through Tickets, via this Line, to all points in 

NORTHERN NEW YORK AND CANADA. 

Also EXCURSION TICKETS to 

Clayton, Alexandria Bay. or Montreal, 

AND RETURN, AT REDUCED RATES, 

Can be obtained at all principal Railway 'Picket offices, and at the office of the Dai' Line or Peo- 
ple's Line Steamers, in New York. 
IF YOU CANNOT GET THROUGH TICKETS, BUY TO UTICA ONLY. 

THEO. BUTTERFIELD E. A VAN HORNE, 

General Passenger Agent, Utica, N. Y. General SuperintmderU, 



THE GATEWAY OF THE CATSKILLS. 



"Via" RONDOUT. 

MOUNTAIN SUMMER RESORTS. 

DailyLineofSteaffllioalsfrfliMewYort. 

PIER FOOT OF HARRISO.y STREET. 

Str. "CITY OF KINGSTON," Str. "JAMES W.BALDWIN," 



TUESDA YS and 

THURSDAYS at 4 p,m, 

and on 

SATURDA YS af 1 p.7n. 



MONDA YS, 

WEDNESDAYS and 

FRIDAYS, 

At 4 p, m. 



Landing at CRANSTON'S, CORNWALL, NEWBURGH, MARLBOROUGH 
MILTON, POUGHKEEPSIE, and ESOPUS. 

Leave RONDOUT Daily (except Saturdays) at 6 o'clock P. M. 

Connecting at KONDOUT with Express Trains on the "Ulster & Delaware," "Stony Clove 
& Catekill Mountain," and " Kaaterskill" Railroads, 

AND TO ALL POINTS IN THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

Passengers are carried direct to the top of the Catskill Aloiintains, reaching Hotel Kaaterskill, 
Catskill Mountain House, Laurel House, Haines' Falls, Tannersville, Hunter. Tremper House, and 
Grand Hotel, without any staging. 

Tickets to all Points, and Baggage Checked Through. 

Time Schedules and List of Boarding Houses mailed on application. Address 

CORNELL STEAMBOAT CO., 

197 West Street, New York. 



Catskill Line Steamers 

SHORTEST, CHEAPEST MD BEST ROUTE 



TO THE 



Hotel Kaaterskill, Catskill Mountain House, Laurel House, 
Kaater,skill Falls, Prospect Park Hotel, Grant House, 
Summit Hill House, Haines Falls, Hunter, Tan- 
nersville, Palenville, Cairo, Durham, Wind- 
ham, and all Resorts in the 



Steamers Kaaterskill and Catskill 



New York to Catskill. 

str. kaaterskill. 

Tuesdays ) 

Thursdays -AT 6 P. M 

Saturdays ) 



Str. catskill. 

Mondays \ 

Wednesdays > AT 6 P. M. 

Fridays \ 



Catskill to New York. 

Str. catskill. 

Sundays \ 

Tuesdays - AT 6 P.M. 

Thursdays ) 

Str. kaaterskill. 
Mondays \ 



Wednesdays - AT 6 P. M. 

Fridays ) 



During" July and Aug'USt two boats will leave Catskill on Sundays— the 
Catskill at 7 p. m. and the Kaaterskill at 10 P. m. — both arriving in New York early 
Monday morning. 

The catskill MOUNTAIN RAILROAD 

runs special trains to and from these steamers. 
Through Tickets and Baggage Cheeks. Staterooms Secured in Adrance. 

W. J. HUGHES, Secretary and Treasurer, Catskill, N. Y. 

HEW YORK PIER No. 34 NORTH RIVER, FOOT of HARRISON STREET. 



WALLINGFORD, MERIDEN, NEW BRITAIN, HARTFORD, 

WINDSOR 'LOCKS, SPRINGFIELD, HOLYOKE, 

NORTHAMPTON, AND POINTS IN 

VERMONT, ETC. 

* 



THE STJIPET^B 

NEW HAVEN STEAMERS 

"C.H.Nirltai;"'tatalal,"or"lliCity," 

jp.TTTvrn j New York, Pier 25, E. R., 3 P. M. and 11 P. M. 
LlAVIJNIj I j^e^ Haven, 10.15 A. M. and 12 P. M. 

Run in connection with Special Trains to all Stations on N. Y., N. H. and H. 

Railroad (above New Haven), in CONNECTICUT VALLEY, 

VERMONT, and- WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

TICKETS SOLD AND BAGGAG3 CHECKED THROUGH. 
^ 

A Delightful Excursion! The Sound by Daylioht! 
No Business Time Lost! 

^ 



Take 3 P. M. Steamer, arriving in New Haven 8 p. m. Returning, leave at 
12 p. M., arriving in New York 5 a, m. 

All information cheerfully given at office, Pier 25, E. R. 



CITIZENS' STEAMBOAT EQMPANY, 



^ ^^?^??.fTc' ^'''^^'i';"^' F^^'' 44 >f'>- River, N.Y. I T. D. ABRAMS, Treasurer, Troy, N. Y. 

G. jM. LEWIS, Gen. Tkt.Agt. '' '^ '' I G. W. GIBSON, Gen. Pass. Agt., " '' 

G. W. HORTON, Gen. Agent, also in charge of Freight Department, Troy, N. Y. 

CITIZENS' LINE STEAMERS POPOLAR ROUTE 

TO 

LAKES GEORGE, CHAMPLAIN, BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE, 
AUSABLE CHASM, MANCHESTER, VT., MON- 
TREAL, WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

A/yO ALL POINTS NORTH AND WEST. 

"SARATOGA" f "CITY OF TROY." 

Leave New York I Leave Troy 

DAILY, except Saturday, at six I'.M., from Pier DAILY, except Saturday, about 8:rw y. jj. 

44, North River, foot CHRISTOPHER ST. | Sunday, at six }•. m. 

Connecting with trains on Delaware and Hudson, New York Central, Hoosac Tunnel, Troy 
and Boston, Central Vermont, and connecting Railroads and Steamers on Lakes George and 
Chamjilain. 

Sunday Steamers, both North and South, touch at Alhany. 



FOR TICKETS AND STATE-ROOMS : In New York apply at the office on the Pier; at 
162, 207, 261, 421 Broadway. Tickets and State-rooms, 944, 1323 Broadway. Tickets and State- 
rooms : Brooklyn, 7^7 Sixth Avenue, 4 Court Street, and 730 Fulton Street. In the South, at prm- 
cipal ticket offices in Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, and Richmond. 



Take the ^ 'P T "P ' S 

==== Pullman Line 



FOR OR FROM 



AND 



NO EXTRA CHARGE FOR FAST TIME 



A PANORAMA OF 



THREE EXPRESS TRAINS DAILY. 

THE DIRECT ROUTE Through the MOUNTAIN and CATARACT 

REGION of the DELAWARE to WATKINS GLEN, the LAKES of 

CENTRAL NEW YORK. PORTAGE FALLS and BRIDGE. 



For full particulars send for a Summer Tour Book. To be had 

Free of the Company's agents at 

2 COURT ST., BROOKLYN, N. Y., 401 BROADWAY, NEW YORK, 

957 BROADWAY, NEW YORK, 187 WEST ST . NEW YORK, 

And at the Depots, Foot of Chambers St., 'New York, 

or Foot of 23rcl St., North River, New York. 

J NO. N. ABBOTT, 

General Passenger Agent, New York. 



CATSKILL MOUHTAIS RAILROAD, 

From Catskill Landing, on the Hudson River, to the 

IS THE 

SHORTEST, QUICKEST AND MOST DESIRABLE ROUTE 

TO OR rU(iM THE 

Catskill Mountain House and Hotel Kaatershill, Haines' Falls, Tanners- 

ville, Laurel House, Palenville, Cairo, Durham, Windham, 

and other points in the Catskill Mountain Region. 

Passengers for the Hotel Kaaterskill and the Catskill Mountain IIorsE will reach either 
Hotel two hours earlier by this route than at present practicable by any other. Gucpts can break- 
fast after 8 a.m. at the above Hotels and reach New York by this route at 2:15 p.m. 

Time, expense, and over fifty miles of travel saved by this route to Touriste from or to Saratoga. 

Summer Boarders returning from Tannersville and vicinity should not fail to drive down the 
Mountains, through the famous Kaatehskill Clove, and take passage by this road from Palen- 
ville to Catskill. 

Close Connection.s made at Catskill with the Hudson River Day Line Steamers and the 
Catskill Night Line ; the N. Y. C. & IL R. Railroad and the N. Y., W. S. & B. Railway. 
Three Trains !Each "Way Daily in June. 
Six Daily Trains Eacli Way in July, August, September. 



Through Tickets should be purchased as follows: 
To LEEDS for Leeds and vicinity. 
To CAIRO (via Cairo Stage Line from South Cairo) for Cairo, Freehold, East Durham, Oak Hill, 

Durham, Acra, South Durham, East Windham, and Windham. 
To LAWRENCEVILLE for Lawrenceville and Kiskatom. 

To MOUNTAIN HOUSE STATION for Catskill Mountain House and Laurel House. 
To PALENVILLE for Palenville, Hotel Kaaterskill, Haines's Falls, Hilton House, and Tanners- 
ville. 

g^° Carriages from the above Stations to the various Resorts. 
THE RAILROAD AND EQUIPMENT ARE FIRST-CLASS IN EVERY RESPECT. 
Rates of Fake from New York City. 
Via Catskill Night Line St€a?mrs— To Leeds, $1M; to South Cairo, $1.40; to Cairo, $1.75; to Law- 
renceville, $1.60; to Mountain House Station. $1.70; to Palenville, $1 80. 
Via Hudson liiver I^ay Line Steamers— To Leed^, $)M; to South Cairo, $1.90; to Cairo, $2.25; to 

Lawrenceville, $2.10; to Mountain House Stat on, $2.20; to Palenville, $2 30. 
Via N. Y. C. cfe //. i?. H. E.—To Leeds, $2.48; to South Cairo, $2.58; to Cairo, $2.9.3; to Lawrence- 
ville, $2.78; to Mountain House Station, $2.88: to Palenville, $2.98. 
Via N Y. W. S. tfc B. R. R.—To Leeds. $2 48; to South Cairo, $2.58; to Cairo, $2.93: to Lawrence- 
ville, $2.78; to Mountain House Station, $2.88; to Palenville, $2.98. 

CHAS. A. BEACH, Supt. and Pass. Agent, 

CATSKILL, N. Y. 



HUDSON RIVER BY DAYLIGHT I 



SARATOGA 

AND THE NORTH. 

Niagara Falls 

AND THK WEST. 

THE RESORTS OF THE CATSKILLS. 



The Favorite Steamers, 

ALBANY AND C VIBBARD, 

LEAVE DAILY ) From root of Vestry St., Pier 39, N. E., at 8.35 a. m. 
EXCEPT SUNDAYS, ; From foot Of 22(1 St., N. R„ at 9 a. 1. 

Connecting at ALBANY with trains for Schenectady, Utica, Plattsbargh, the Ad- 
irondacks, Montreal and the North, Buffalo, Niagara Falls, Thousand 
Islands and the West. 

At NEW YORK with trains for Philadelphia and the South. 

Connecting at RHINEBECK (by Ferry) with Express train on the Ulster & I>elaware 
K. K., giving a through connection for the S. C. and C. M. and Kaaterskill Railroads. 

At CATSKILL with Catskill Mountain Railroad. 

FOR SARATOGA.— .1 Special Exjyress Train leaves ALBANY at 6.35 v. m. for 
Cohoes, 3Iechanicsville and Rallston, arriving at Saratoga 8 p. m. Returning, 
leaves SARATOGA 7 a. m., makes same stops, and lands passengers at Day Line Dock in 
time for Boat for NEW YORK. 

Excursion Tickets to NEWBURGH (nearly two hours for visiting), 

WEST POINT (three hours), returning by down Boat, - - - One DoDar. 



IP o I nsr T s 

WORTH READING. 



EconomJ 
Elegance 



Ottr large and attractive 
stock of Fine Clothing for 
Men and Boys shotdd com- 
mand the attention of every 
ptiixhaser of Clothing at 
retail in New York. 

0^lr facilities for Custom 
Work are unequaled. 



DEVLIN & CO., 

Broadway and Warren St., NEW YORK, 



I-OYell's Library. 

The PubUshers of " Lovell's Library" having decided to devote their exclusive attention to the interests of 
that series, have now made arrangements tf-nding to in. prove the general aineirance of the book^^^^^ 
of better paper, pnntmg, and binding. . The^^ellctions'of works'^to IV^^WiXd wiH br.na^^^^ 

uri^nt fiction, which will be re-issued promptly, all the 



care. It is contemplated to include, besides the best i 
leading Standard Works, not only in Fiction, but 



img btanaard \v orks, not only in tiction, but in Art, Science and Belles-Lettres 
Among the more important works recently issued, ornow in press are : 




2E3E3E3£a£3£J 



Xi-A-TEST TSSTZTES. 



Dorothy Forster, by Walter Besant 

Swiss Family Robinson 

Childhood of the World, by E. Clodd 

Princess Napmxine, by Ouida 

Life in the Wilds, by Harriet Martineau 

Paradise Lost, by John Milton 

The Land Question, by Henry George 

Homer's Odyssey 

Life of Milton, by Mark Pattison 

Social Problems, by Henry Grcorge 

The Giant's Robe, by F. Anstey 

Sowei-s not Reapers, by Harriet Martineau 

Homer's Iliad 

Arabian Nights Entertainment 

Life of Pope, by Leslie Stephen 

John Holdsworth, by W. Clark Russell 

Glen of the Echoes, by Harriet Martineau 

Life of Johnson, by Leslie Stephen 

How he reached the White House ; or, A Famous 
Victory 



press, are : 

TWICE TOLI> TALES. 

By Xathaniel Hawthorne. 
1 Vol., 12mo, No. 370 Lovell's Library 20 cents 

GRANDFATHER'S CHAIR. 

By Xatliuniel Havthorne. 
1 Vol., 12mo, No. 376 Lovell's Library 80 cents 

EMERSON'S ESSAYS. 

Essays by Ralph Waldo Emerson. 

1 Vol., 12mo, No. 373 Lovell's Library .... 80 cents 

The publishei-s avail themselvts of the expiration 
of copyright on the above to issue these very neat 
and desirable editions. They are all printed from 



large, i 
large s 
they are issued. 



lear tyne, and will no doubt enjoy a very 
large sale at the merely nominal price at which 



Essays and Iicaves from a Note Book. 

By Georijc Kliot. 
1 Vol., 12ino, No. 371 Lovell's Library 80 cents 

A FAIR DEVICE. 

An American Xorel, by Chas. Wolcott Balestier. 
1 Vol., 12mo, No. 381 Lovell's Library 80 cents 

"Charmingly told. The story is original, and 
moves enticingly." .says the Syracuse Standard,in 
an advance notice. 

OUIDA'S NEW NOVEL. 

PRINCESS NAPRAXINE. 

By Oh ilia. 
I Vol., 12mo, No. 387 Lovell's Library 85 cents 

WALTER BESANT'S NEW NOVEL. 
DOROTHY FORSTER. 

By Walter Be.sant, author of "All Sorts atid Con- 
ditions of Men," Mc. 
1 Vol., 12mo, No. 384 Lovell's Library. ... 80 cents 



1^- We have just issued a New Catalogue, which 
we will send free on application. Dealers can be 
supplied with quantities with imprint, without 
charge, by applying to the publishers. 

JOHN W. LOVELL COMPAHY, 

14 and 16 Vesey Street, 

NEW YORK. 



THE FRANK LESLIE 

PUBLICATIONS 



MOST POPULAR, 

MOST INSTRUCTIVE, 

MOST ENTERTIANING. 

ALL PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED. 

•— — 

The Frank Leslie Publications may be obtained at every 

News Depot, and on all Railway Trains and 

Steamboat Lines in the country. 



Subscriptions by mail should be addressed to 

FRANK LESLIE, Publisher, 
53, 55 & 57 Park Place, 




iHiii ffii^EBiiiil fflCMll 



n 



Newburgh, Orange Co., N.Y. 

Guaranteed to be the best-appointed Hotel on the Hudson 
River between New York and Albany. 

It contains all modern imiirovements, commanding a fine view of the Hudson from West 
Point to New HamVinr^h. (ironnd 300 I'eet above tide-water. For beauty, extent, and vari- 
ety of scenery it cannot be surpassed. House large and commodious ; pleasant, stiaded 
grounds ; 500 feet Piazza. Open summer and winter. 

FREE CARRIAGE to and from the House. Five minutes' drive from Steamboat 
Landing. 

The only first-class Hotel in Newburgh. 

Transient Board, ^2.50 to !g!3 per day ; S8 to »15 per week. Special rates to Families. 

Tourists coming to Newburgh to visit Washington's Headquarters can take dinner at 
the House and then ride from House to Headquarters, have thirty minutes there, and return 
to landing in time for down Boat. Bus charge only 10 cents. 

J. BALDWIN, Proprietor. 

l^"l.ook out for the Baldwin House Bus or Carriajjre. 



f 



The Century is perhaps the most judiciously edited Magazine in the world.— N. Y. Nation. 

THE MIDSUMMER HOLIDAY NUMBER OF 

The Century Magazine, 

Ready July ig, will be especially rich in delightful summer reading, and will 
contain a large number of choice engravings. 

Special Attractions for the Coming Months. 

A NEW STORY BY HENRY JAMES.— " A New England Winter." 

BRITISH WILD FLOWERS— By John Burroughs. Illustrated by Alfred 
Parsons. 

DR. SEVIER— By Geo. W. Cable. The concluding chapters contain descrip- 
tions of scenes North and South at the beginning of the Civil War. 

ON THE TRACK OF ULYSSES— By W. J. Stillman. The record of a yacht- 
cruise in the Mediterranean, undertaken at the expense of The Centitry 
Magazine, and for the purpose of identifying the route of Ulysses on his re- 
turn from the Trojan war. ^ 

A PROBLEMATIC CHARACTER.— A vivid and sparkling novelette, by H. 
H. Boyesen. 

ESSAYS — By Rev. Washington Gladden. LL. D,, and others on important topics 
of present interest. 

AMERICAN ARCHITECTURE.— A series of articles by Mrs. Schuyler Van 
Rensselaer, on the best and most characteristic work of the new school of 
American Architecture, profusely illustrated with engravings of a number of 
the best examples of recent work. 

PROF. LANGLEY ON THE SUN.— This very remarkable illustrated paper is 
in Prof. Langley's series on " The New Astronomy." 

For sale by all booksellers. Price $4.00 a year ; 35 cents a number, or remit- 
tances may be made direct to the publishers. 

THE CENTURY CO., 

33 East 17TH St., New-York, N. Y. 



€AtBKILL HeUHl'MNS. 



J. LOEFFLER'S 




In the Catskill Mountains. 

Every place of interest in these romantic regions is faithfully repre- 
sented. The lowering mountains, the shady glens, the majestic waterfalls, 
which form the characteristic features of this beautiful mountain range, are 
so truly portrayed that one only needs to glance through the stereoscope 
to feel himself once more transported to those scenes which in nature 
have afforded him such delight. 

All the views are also reproduced as slides for the magic lantern, and 
as transparences for the window. 

They can be had by applying to 

J. LOEFFLER, 

Tompkinsville, Stateii Island, N. Y. 



FOR SALE AT THE BOOK STANDS OF THE ALBANY DAY BOATS, AND THE PRINCI- 
PAL HOTELS IN THE CATSKILLS. 



ROGERS' GROUPS. 




NEIGHBORING PEWS. PRICE, $15.00. 

These Groups are packed, without extra charge, to go to any 
3art of the world, and their safe arrival guaranteed. If intended 
or Wedding Presents, they will be forwarded promptly as 
directed. Illustrated Catalogues of the Groups and Pedestals 
in ebonized wood), can be had on application, or will be mailed 
)y enclosing Ten Cents to 

pp \^^E\$, 23 Unioq ^quafe, fleW Voi'\. 

VISITORS ALWAYS WELCOME. 



^N 



^^^^1^KS• STAiV£)^ 



^-^1^-^- 



Grocers' and Butchers' 

FIXTURES AND TOOLS. 



STORE AND WAREHOUSE TRUCKS. 




Copying Presses and Stands 
LAWN MQWERS. 



SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED CATALOGCE. 



The ADRIANCE BUCKEYE has for 
more than a quarter of century held 
its position as the LEADING MA- 
CHINE. Its principles of construc- 
tion are the only ones that have stood 
the test of time, surpassing all oth- 
ers in SIMPLICITY, STRENGTH, 
LIGHTNESS of DRAFT, EASE of 
MANAGEMENT. DURABILITY, 
and CAPACITY TO DO GOOD 
WORK ANYWHERE. 




'-' \ 



^IDFm^NeiEl AND 




The ADRIANCE REAPER has proved 
its superiority to all machines of its 
class. It is light, strong, simple, eas- 
ily operated, completely under control 
of driver, perfectly balanced, has a 
cased gearing, folding platform, no 
« weight on horse's neck, no side draft. 



m^mm^^mms^ 



Descriptive Circulars 

forzvarded by mail. 



BUCKEYE WORKS, POUGHKEEPSIE, N. Y. 

Office, 1 65 Greenwich St., New York. 











ii^i^ 









I 






\LL RIVER LINE 

i.c/^lj BETWEEN 

f|§ Mew York ./ind Boston, 

fflWFOET- AHB FALL EITIR. 

5 g Qiiidvost and Most Direct l?oute to 

„ - TON, NEW BEDFORD, CAPE COD. MARTHA'S VINEYARD. 

in JANTUCKET, LOWELL, LAWRENCE, NASHUA, MANCHES- 

5;g . TER, CONCORD, PORTLAND, BANGOR, MOUNT 
^ J ' DESERT, WHITE MOUNTAINS, Etc., Etc. 

't SUPERB PALACE STEAMERS, 

iilLGRIM,""lil!lSTOi;V"PROVMCir 

^ P T^arg^est, Finest. iin<l Most Costly Steamers of their class in tlio AVorld. 

^S Splendid Bands of Music 

^y jcompany each Steamer during the season of pleasure 

e w travel. 

b p 



<— t (A 

c o 

■^ D- toiimors leave NEW YORK from Pier 28, North River, foot of Murray Street. Trains con- 

} "'^ ig with Steamers at Fall River— 49 miles— leave BOSTON from Old Colony R. R. Depot, eor. 

:i- Q \ and Kneeland Sts. 

•^ 3) IROOKLYN and JERSEY CITY PASSENGERS transferred, rin Annex boat, to and from 

-, 2. a)f this Line. 

?J r. R. KENDRTCK, GEO. L. CONNOR, 

T> ^ General Manager. Gen'I Pass. Agent. 




SELTZER 




ALWAYS FRESH ! ALWAYS READY ! 

One of the advantages that TARRANT'S SELTZER APE- 
RIENT — being a dry white powder — has over many natural 
mineral waters, is the fact that it never becomes vapid or 
stale. It is, therefore, the most admirable preparation not only 
for travelers on land and sea, but for all who need a bright, fresh, 
sparkling alterative and corrective, and it is always ready. 

WORTH REMEMEEBING. 

That TARRANT'S SELTZER APERIENT represents in each 
bottle from thirty to forty glasses of Sparkling Seltzer Water, con- 
taining all the virtues of the celebrated German Spring. It is 
always fresh and always ready, and thus commends itself 
to all for its efficacy, portability and cheapness. 

ALL DRUGGISTS HAVE IT. 




2, 5SS 3 

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Boston, tarord, Montreal, WliUi' Mountains, 
anil Mount Washington Railways. 

THE GREIT POPULAR LINE OF SUMMER TRAVEL 

Whitl^/1\ountains * 

» * ii/lKD«RDSORTS. 

I 111 Eiil LiDi to me Smiiil 01 Mini WaslWloi. 



TWO THROUGH TRMNS EICH WIY, DULY, 



Bethlehem, Profile, Twin 



1.00 i* M. EXPRESS FROM BOSTON, 



2Sro S sfc^TE STREET, BOSTOl-T. 
T CEO. W. STORER. Asent. 



LlToFFICE, I'l.YMlUiTH, N. H. 



THE C-IIE.^T 

FALL R\VER LINE 

lEW York nm Boston. 

VIA 

NE WPORT AND FALL RIVER. 



ICET. LOWBLU LAWRENCE. NASHUA. MANCHES- 
< CONCORD. PORTUAND. IIAHOOR, MOUNT 

DESERT, WHITE MOUNTAINS. Ett.. Oc. 



LGRIM: ilKlSTOL." r'lWlDENCF.: 



Splendid Bands 



5? 



OBO. h. COSSOIt, 




/,ir---< 



)G 



BLUE and LONDON SMOKE 



Good for River, Mountain and Sea-side Scenery. 

FOR SALE AT THE 
OF THE 

These Glasses relieve the eye from any glare of Sunlight, and give a 
cheerful View of Landscape. 

OPERA GLASSES FOl? SALE OK TO LET. 



TIME TABLE of the ALBAHY and C. YIBBARD. 



GOING NORTH, 

liroolilvii, I'V Annex 8.00 A. 31. 

_ ^' i Testry St 8.35 

IsewYork-jogdSt 9.00 

]S vack Feiry 10.25 

AVest Point 11.50 

NeAvTmvgli 12.35 P. M. 

Pouglikeepsie 1.15 

Rhinebeck 2.10 

Catskill .3.25 

Hudson 3.45 

Albany 6.10 



GOING SOUTH. 

Albany 8. 

Hudson 10. 

Catskill 11. 

Kbinebeck 12. 

I'ougbkeepsie 1. 

>eAvbur.ub 2. 

AVest Point 2. 

Nyack Ferry 4. 

\ 22dSt 5. 

(A^estrySt. 5. 

Hrooklyn, by Annex 6. 



NeAv A^ork ■ 



30 A. M, 

40 

00 

25 P. 31 

20 
15 
50 
05 
30 
50 
15 



"FROM THE HUDSON TO THE Y0SEM1TE,; 




WALLACE BRUCE. 

PUBLISHED BY AMERICAN NEWS GO. 

Haudsoiely Illustrated Price 50 Cents. For 



at News Stands. ^| : 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 107 651 6 €> 



